maseratimike7
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GS won't start
- Thread starter maseratimike7
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maseratimike7
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Ok so performed a short check with a light to test and after removing and checking each fuse and relay independent tye light still showed a short!
Not sure if I am just going mad now trying to solve this problem but are the following normal.
I thought the oil pressure guage showed the red light and zero reading before it cranks over. Now it has no light and shows a 1/4 reading for pressure without the engine running??
Also when I have attempted to start the car and I take the key out of the ignition after switching the stock stereo off I get static in the speakers.
Nothing is running and the stereo is off with no keys in the ignition?
Are these two points normal or am I losing my mind at this point.
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Not sure if I am just going mad now trying to solve this problem but are the following normal.
I thought the oil pressure guage showed the red light and zero reading before it cranks over. Now it has no light and shows a 1/4 reading for pressure without the engine running??
Also when I have attempted to start the car and I take the key out of the ignition after switching the stock stereo off I get static in the speakers.
Nothing is running and the stereo is off with no keys in the ignition?
Are these two points normal or am I losing my mind at this point.
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maseratimike7
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Also does this look right for the oil return sender unit, only has one connection and I can't see a missing plug?
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maseratimike7
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maseratimike7
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Ok gents, I can now consistently start the car by tricking it. If I remove the relay "connected devices not cut out during ignition" which is panel A relay D, the car starts as normal, I then replace the removed relay and all is normal with all lights and switches operational except the maserati code system light which is constant.
Getting the car running allowed me the opportunity to check the battery charge and safe to say I think the altenator is stuffed despite just being rebuilt as the reading was only 11.2 running and was 12.4 when off.
So back to the problem it's either the altenator causing a short and stopping PTS or a deeper problem within the system surrounding the connected devices not cut out relay.
I have replaced this relay with a comparable unit that works but it still doesn't start in the traditional way.
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Getting the car running allowed me the opportunity to check the battery charge and safe to say I think the altenator is stuffed despite just being rebuilt as the reading was only 11.2 running and was 12.4 when off.
So back to the problem it's either the altenator causing a short and stopping PTS or a deeper problem within the system surrounding the connected devices not cut out relay.
I have replaced this relay with a comparable unit that works but it still doesn't start in the traditional way.
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rockits
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Sounds coincidentally & suspiciously like alternator does it not? If the electrical circuits are not providing enough voltage or shorting & has been changed it is very coincidental. Have you got any way or swapping for a known good unit to test?
I had a new unit put on my SL500 recently as the cost wasn't much more than rebuilt or recon unit. I used a recon one year's ago on a car that was rubbish & heard many others had issues so have stayed away. A good recon is fine & by a good supplier but so many rubbish people out there that variable quality exists.
You have done really well to get to that point at far....great work
I had a new unit put on my SL500 recently as the cost wasn't much more than rebuilt or recon unit. I used a recon one year's ago on a car that was rubbish & heard many others had issues so have stayed away. A good recon is fine & by a good supplier but so many rubbish people out there that variable quality exists.
You have done really well to get to that point at far....great work
maseratimike7
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Seems to be the suspect at the moment, seemed to work fine for around 4 weeks then gave up the ghost after some spirited driving.Sounds coincidentally & suspiciously like alternator does it not? If the electrical circuits are not providing enough voltage or shorting & has been changed it is very coincidental. Have you got any way or swapping for a known good unit to test?
I had a new unit put on my SL500 recently as the cost wasn't much more than rebuilt or recon unit. I used a recon one year's ago on a car that was rubbish & heard many others had issues so have stayed away. A good recon is fine & by a good supplier but so many rubbish people out there that variable quality exists.
You have done really well to get to that point at far....great work
That must have been why the volt guage dropped at the point it failed just before it wouldn't start again.
I don't have a spare unit to check it against, hopefully if I change it the car will start normally providing it hasn't damaged anything.
I did realise that an alternator could cause the car not to start potentially.
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rockits
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The SL55 had two batteries split for different roles so guessing the newer more electronic cars are starting to go this way as one system can't power all it needs to.
I didn't think it was a problem either stopping a car from starting before but now I am sure it is possibly an issue with these bigger lumpier modern cars.
I didn't think it was a problem either stopping a car from starting before but now I am sure it is possibly an issue with these bigger lumpier modern cars.
maseratimike7
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Ok so took the altenator off and noticed immediately that the connection housing for the power supply had melted on the altenator.
Took it to the guy who reconditioned it, he tested it and said the diodes had blown again and also the stator had gone so it could no longer be rebuilt and a new one would be needed.
He gave me a full refund but I suspect he used inferior diodes or something during the rebuild for it to blow so quickly.
All of the surrounding cables and wires to the alternator plug same ok and test ok.
It may have been the ignition lead on the altenator plug picking up a bad signal which is what had been causing the none start or PTS as the feeback wasn't within parameters.
Now onto the obvious and I probably already know the answer but is there a reasonably priced new altenator on the market for this car or is it eurospares only?
Thank for all the help and support throughout this process everyone!
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Took it to the guy who reconditioned it, he tested it and said the diodes had blown again and also the stator had gone so it could no longer be rebuilt and a new one would be needed.
He gave me a full refund but I suspect he used inferior diodes or something during the rebuild for it to blow so quickly.
All of the surrounding cables and wires to the alternator plug same ok and test ok.
It may have been the ignition lead on the altenator plug picking up a bad signal which is what had been causing the none start or PTS as the feeback wasn't within parameters.
Now onto the obvious and I probably already know the answer but is there a reasonably priced new altenator on the market for this car or is it eurospares only?
Thank for all the help and support throughout this process everyone!
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maseratimike7
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Thanks gents, getting there and hope the fresh replacement works!
My original unit was a denso but the guy removed the part number sticker from the side, does anyone know what the model number is as I have a denso supplier locally that might be able to source one?
He needs the part number as the reg didn't produce anything, alternatively if anyone has the bosch product number that would also be an option.
The local denso agent said he thinks it would be around £350 including VAT for a new unit.
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My original unit was a denso but the guy removed the part number sticker from the side, does anyone know what the model number is as I have a denso supplier locally that might be able to source one?
He needs the part number as the reg didn't produce anything, alternatively if anyone has the bosch product number that would also be an option.
The local denso agent said he thinks it would be around £350 including VAT for a new unit.
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maseratimike7
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CatmanV2
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conaero
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Ok I am just going to state this again, never, ever get your alternator of the V8's Maserati engines rebuilt. They blow their diode packs or melt and explode the battery!
I have even seen one catch fire after second rebuild.
BennyD, do you want to add anything?
I have even seen one catch fire after second rebuild.
BennyD, do you want to add anything?
maseratimike7
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Yeah beginning to realise that OEM is best for most things on this car!
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