strictly
Junior Member
- Messages
- 56
Basically quick question before I start the job over the next few days....
Any direct experience of specific body/panel holes not to to inject cavity wax into on a granturismo? I will be taking my time and of course avoiding any obvious holes which are open to the engine bay for example. Let me explain why I am asking....I watched a watched a video of a chap cavity waxing his mini through the sills, and getting it on his interior by accident. Opps! Obviously I dont want to do that....
If no one knows, then I will be the guinea pig and let you know if I find out the hard way.
I will be using bilt hamber dynax s50 in aerosol. And lanoguard after. I will clean any body drain holes during/after. What I like about the lanoguard is the ease of application, safe on all plastics, rubbers etc, and high temperature (450 C), I will still avoid the exhaust and or course engine belts, etc.
Ideally I would do this in summer, but I will warm the wax, and allow the car to dry/cure for a 7 days before driving. I only mention that as I can see some lanoguard cars look a bit sticky after, but perhaps that was because they did not get full cure time. I will let you know the final results in May/June after finishing the work and driving for some time.
Some pics of of "cleaned" underside before applying. Ive not yet finished cleaning the whole underneath, just the back half - It's not quite as clean as I would like, but its better than what I have started with and have limited ramp time. I will be cleaning more as and when I take things apart as needed.
For cleaning I have been using a mixture of rustbuster chlor-X DTS (salt remover), TFR, and steam clean (mini/by hand). Dry after with heated turbo air blower and heat gun where needed.
Any direct experience of specific body/panel holes not to to inject cavity wax into on a granturismo? I will be taking my time and of course avoiding any obvious holes which are open to the engine bay for example. Let me explain why I am asking....I watched a watched a video of a chap cavity waxing his mini through the sills, and getting it on his interior by accident. Opps! Obviously I dont want to do that....
If no one knows, then I will be the guinea pig and let you know if I find out the hard way.
I will be using bilt hamber dynax s50 in aerosol. And lanoguard after. I will clean any body drain holes during/after. What I like about the lanoguard is the ease of application, safe on all plastics, rubbers etc, and high temperature (450 C), I will still avoid the exhaust and or course engine belts, etc.
Ideally I would do this in summer, but I will warm the wax, and allow the car to dry/cure for a 7 days before driving. I only mention that as I can see some lanoguard cars look a bit sticky after, but perhaps that was because they did not get full cure time. I will let you know the final results in May/June after finishing the work and driving for some time.
Some pics of of "cleaned" underside before applying. Ive not yet finished cleaning the whole underneath, just the back half - It's not quite as clean as I would like, but its better than what I have started with and have limited ramp time. I will be cleaning more as and when I take things apart as needed.
For cleaning I have been using a mixture of rustbuster chlor-X DTS (salt remover), TFR, and steam clean (mini/by hand). Dry after with heated turbo air blower and heat gun where needed.
