Central locking problem - will not lock using remote

davidhowson

Junior Member
Messages
474
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tcrote5516

Junior Member
Messages
86
Taken the Meta unit out of my car today to have another look at this problem. My car will unlock and unset the alarm using the remote key but will only set the alarm and not lock the doors using the remote. I can use the key in either door lock and both doors will centrally lock.
When trying to lock the car the Meta unit is silent but on unlocking, there is a definite click from the relay on the circuit board.
I'm thinking about sending this unit and a key to Abacus Alarms for them to rest.


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That's crazy. I just had the complete opposite problem with mine. It would do everything but unlock. After messing around with it, replacing both door lock's (turns out both locks were fine)I gave up and removed the META system. I ended up installing a new 2 way alarm (I wanrted to do that anyway). Here's a video of some of the updates and the alarm system in action:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqmMB0-LT7I&t=49s
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,543
David can you post a picture of the underside of the PCB. My *theory* is that that's a change over relay (the black box) and my guess is that it's half busted. i.e. works one way, but not the other.

C
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,543
Sweet. So not quite right. What it is is two SPST relays in one package. If you're getting the symptoms that you describe one 'half' is failed. Either it's not getting voltage to the 'unlock coil' or that coils is not triggering the pulse. Hope it's the latter.

Here's the pin out
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/153371/ETC1/JQC-16F.html

You can try putting 12v across 1 and 2, and 6 and 7 separately. If the relay switches (which you should be able to feel) then there's something wrong with the driver / alarm circuit. If there's no switching, then swap the relay.

HTH

C
 

davidhowson

Junior Member
Messages
474
putting a voltage across pins 6 and 7 results in a click of the relay: across 1 and 2 there's nothing. must be the relay.
I can find a replace part but i'm not sure my pcb soldering skills are going to be that good. any offers??


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Moz1000

Member
Messages
820
putting a voltage across pins 6 and 7 results in a click of the relay: across 1 and 2 there’s nothing. must be the relay.
I can find a replace part but i’m not sure my pcb soldering skills are going to be that good. any offers?

Happy to do it for you if you pop the parts in the post.
Moz
 

davidhowson

Junior Member
Messages
474
Wow Moz what an offer! The parts are on the way to me, i'll see what it all looks like when i get to the weekend and wether i do want to give it a go, but i may still take you up on the offer, thank you


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Corranga

Member
Messages
1,219
Did that resolve the problem?

My car seems to lock the passenger door with the remote, but not the drivers door.
Not sure about unlocking, I need to investigate further...
 

breezer

Member
Messages
229
Gents, I’ve had the same problem with my aircon and door locks. Managed to get the drain cleaned out (so much water!) but too late as I can only lock the car with the key in the passenger lock. Which relay under the footwell is it that I need to replace? Thanks!
 

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babel 101

Junior Member
Messages
253
Gents, I’ve had the same problem with my aircon and door locks. Managed to get the drain cleaned out (so much water!) but too late as I can only lock the car with the key in the passenger lock. Which relay under the footwell is it that I need to replace? Thanks!
good discovery
 

breezer

Member
Messages
229
Okay, I've finally had a bit more time to think this over. Life has, as they say, been getting in the way. For £53 used I can get a door lock module from Eurospares (number 8 in this picture), and for a further £50 or so I can get a new passenger door lock - this is the only one that will allow a central lock and unlock with the key so is likely the dodgy one.

I think this picture gives me a decent idea where the module is:
61191

I'd say it's most likely the module because the locks only started acting up after the air con dumped a load of water onto the passenger side of the transmission tunnel. However, this could be a coincidence as a trusted garage says it's located too high up for this to have an effect. For £100 plus a day of my time it's probably worth trying both.

Can anyone comment on which is easier to replace as I'll try that first! How much carpet, trim, etc. needs to be removed to access this control module? Is it under the centre console itself?

Thanks for the help!
 

breezer

Member
Messages
229
For reference I solved this problem by replacing the passenger door lock. The central locking module was fine!

To test definitively if a lock is no longer working you need to remove the door card (easy but lots of screws - there’s a guide floating around) and simply unplug the two cable bundles going into the bottom of the lock mechanism. If it’s broken, then when these are unplugged the other door will lock on the remote as normal. Replacing the lock is pretty easy, this part only took 10 minutes. The time is in getting the door card off!