HOW TO - change brake discs and pads (3200/4200/Spyder/GranSport)

MAF260

Member
Messages
7,662
Having changed 2 complete sets of discs and pads on my cars in the last week, I feel that I can speak on this subject as something of an expert!

I will detail below how I changed the discs and pads, but will take no responsibility for anyone who uses this as a guide.

Tools required:
Trolley jack/lift
Axle stands
Socket set
Wheel wrench/torque wrench
Wheel chocks
19mm offset spanner
Flat-bladed screwdriver
Pliers

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To remove the wheels I have a separate 22mm socket that I wrapped in insulating tape to make sure the wheels can't get scratched or damaged during removal:
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FRONT DISC AND PAD CHANGE

I chose to change both front discs at the same time, but they can also be done individually if preferred. Chock the rear wheels and then loosen the front wheel bolts with a 22mm socket.
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Find the front jacking point(s) on the car. These are identifiable as square plates with a round hole in the middle. Mine have a little surface corrosion, so they're on the list to clean up and protect. Jack the car up on these points ONLY
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The nearside jacking point area for reference:
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Once raised to a sufficient height to remove the wheels, support the car on axle stands. I use the following location:
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Remove the wheel and store safely, making sure it won't fall over on it's face. You then have full access to the discs and pads:
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Take note of the location of the brake pad warning sensor on the front nearside. There is a 2-pin plug situated on the upper wishbone:
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The cable runs from the plug to the inside brake pad:
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To remove the brake pads you will need to remove the 2 pins and spring that hold the pads in place. Use a suitable tool to drive the pins out - I use an old screwdriver shaft. Remove the top pin first and make sure that the spring doesn't fly out and hit something/you
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With the top pin removed the spring no longer has any tension. Lever the spring downwards and remove. Drive the bottom pin out next.
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Pins and spring removed:
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Now remove the old brake pads. They might be tightly held in the caliper, so use some pliers to pull them out. Note the brake pad wear sensor is still fitted to the brake pad.
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My old pads were not too badly worn as they were fitted late last year. I have fitted brand new pads regardless and will keep these as emergency spares.
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A close up of the other end of the wear sensor. It simply slots into place in the middle of the brake pad. Mine hadn't worn at all, so was cleaned and reused. £11 plus delivery charge saved!
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If you're simply changing pads then jump down to where I show them being refitted.

If you're changing the discs then read on...

The calipers need removal next. You will need a 19mm socket for the two bolts that hold the caliper to the hub at the rear:
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With the bolts removed you will need to support the caliper. I use an axle stand:
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Disc removal time. There are 2 13mm bolts holding the disc to the hub. Undo these and the disc should slide off the hub with a little help
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My old discs were in a bad state; holes filled with crud (despite periodic cleaning) and cracked around the holes. The new discs are built to a specification that should reduce this significantly.
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You have now removed everything, but before refitting I strongly recommend you clean everything up thoroughly.
I clean the hub with degreaser, a wire brush and then a stanley knife blade to ensure the face of the hub is completely clean and flat. Even the slightest dirt left on the hub can make the disc vibrate and compromise braking efficiency and ride:
View attachment 29227IMG_2837.jpgIMG_2838.jpg


Next, spend some time cleaning the brake caliper thoroughly, especially the stainless steel guides that the pads slide on. My calipers had a huge build up of dirt, so I spent a lot of time cleaning off as much as I could. What I've realised is that I now want to completely overhaul the calipers with new seals, pistons and bleed nipples as well as a fresh coat of paint (in the best colour!).

Fit the new disc to the clean hub and secure with the 2 13mm bolts. I cleaned the bolts with a wire brush and applied a little copper grease to the threads to make removal easier next time:
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Then refit the cleaned caliper, securing it with the 2 19mm bolts. Again, these got a good clean. It's advised to use Loctite or a similar threadlock on these bolts when refitting. Do not put copper grease on these bolts.
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Time to fit the new brake pads. Put a thin smear of copper grease on the rear of the pads; this will stop them from squealing. Also put some of the grease on the top and bottom edges of the pads where they will slide in the caliper. You may find that your pads are a tight fit - firstly check that the caliper is completely free of any debris; if so, file the top and bottom edges of the pads (the metal backing) until they drop into the caliper freely. Refit the wear sensor to the inside pad as shown.
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Take a little time to clean up the retaining spring and pins. A wire brush should do the trick
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Slide the bottom pin in first through the rear of the caliper, through the holes in both pads and into the locating hole in the caliper. Insert the spring and tension it with your fingers whilst sliding the top pin into place. Tap the pins from behind to ensure they're fitted securely.
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Admire your work
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Before refitting the wheel(s) give them a good clean. I washed, clayed, and de-tarred my wheels before rinsing and drying. A couple of coats of wheel sealant (I use poorboys), followed by a couple of coats of wax will keep a lot of muck off and resist brake dust. Finally, some tyre cleaner was used before refitting the wheel to the hub. I then polished my stainless steel wheel bolts with Autosol before fitting them. Tighten by hand, making sure the wheel is fully located to the hub.
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Lastly, jack the car up using the jacking point, remove the axle stand and lower to the ground. Torque the wheel bolts up to the correct settings and check these again after 50 miles or so of use.


I'll write up the rears a little later.
 

MAF260

Member
Messages
7,662
Rear discs and pads:

Similar to above - chock front wheels, slacken wheel bolts, jack car using rear jacking point and locate secure placement for axle stands.
Rear jacking point:
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To remove the rear pads you need to squeeze the retaining spring with pliers and lever downwards. It's possible the lower part of this spring will be stiff, so apply some WD40 beforehand to help
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With the retaining spring out of the way you can remove the rear pads with pliers.
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Access to the 2 19mm bolts that secure the rear calipers is tight. You will need to use an offset spanner to undo both bolts
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Remove the caliper and support it (I use an axle stand). Be careful not to kink the brake flexi hose.
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Undo and remove the 2 13mm bolts securing the disc to the hub. It then gets a little tricky...

You will need to slacken the handbrake shoes to remove the disc. Release the handbrake inside the car and ensure it's not in gear. This will allow you to move the rear disc around until one of the inspection holes is at the 6 o'clock position, with the other at 12 o'clock. The adjuster can be tricky to find, so use a good penlight torch to help you see - the adjuster is just to the left of 6 o'clock, so moe the disc gently until you're in that position. The photo below shows what you are looking for with the disc removed:
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Using a flat-bladed screwdriver adjust the handbrake shoes until they are as loose as they can be. The disc may still put up a fight depending on its condition; some help with a mallet from behind may be required.

With the disc removed (mine were definitely in need of replacement) you are left with the bare hub:
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I'm not covering how to change the handbrake shoes as mine had been replaced very recently and so didn't need changing. They're not well protected from the elements, so even recently changed shoes will be a bit dirty/rusty. Mine were also slightly glazed, so I gently filed the surfaces until fresh lining material was showing
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Again, spend plenty of time cleaning everything up - the caliper will be dirty so clean it thoroughly, paying special attention to the pad guides. The spring can be cleaned with a wire brush; the hub can be degreased, wire brushed and a blade taken over the surface to ensure it's spotless. The bolts can be wire brushed.

Fit the new disc, securing with the 2 13mm bolts; replace the caliper using the 2 19mm bolts. Smear the rears and top and bottom sides of the new pads with copper grease and slot into the caliper. Squeeze the retaining spring with pliers and push to locate it
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Then make sure the inspection/adjuster holes are in the correct position again to tighten the handbrake shoes. I tighten mine completely and then slacken off a little until the disc/wheel can move.

Clean, seal, wax the wheels as before; polish the wheel bolts if you choose and refit the wheel.

Raise the car enough to remove the axle stands and lower it to the ground. Torque the wheel bolts up to the correct setting and remember to check them after around 50 miles.

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Stand back and admire your work!
 

drewf

Member
Messages
7,159
That's superb MAF - although the OCD in you probably means you should change the last photo... :)
 

MAF260

Member
Messages
7,662
That's superb MAF - although the OCD in you probably means you should change the last photo... :)

You'll know that I struggled with posting that picture!! - I didn't have a decent one of the yellow car finished. I shall remedy this by taking a photo tomorrow and using it as a replacement!
 

MAF260

Member
Messages
7,662
Jeez man your discs were shot away ! I thought mine were bad!
Thanks for the how too. Not too tricky eh?
The discs weren't great, but I was making do until the group buy discs turned up - eventually!

It's not a difficult job. The only fiddly part is the handbrake shoe adjusters - finding them can be a challenge! I spent more time cleaning everything up and polishing wheels, wheel bolts etc before applying sealant and wax than doing the actual job of changing discs and pads!
 

Contigo

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18,376
Thanks Mark, my front were done exactly same as your but I used a bungee chord to secure the caliper instead.

I will use your rear disc guide tomorrow and it will no doubt come in handy :)
 

alfatwo

Member
Messages
5,517
Maf, how do the brakes feel as I haven't replaced mine just yet..are they any better?

On older cars I usually replace the front brakes first and bed them in before messing with the rears..It's old school thinking!

Dave
 

MAF260

Member
Messages
7,662
They're definitely better, Dave - although some of the improvement will be because my old discs were past their best.

Initial impressions are very good from everyone who has fitted them - I think so far all of these cars have the Mintex pads fitted. I've not yet covered enough miles to make a suitably informed judgement, but will report back after the Le Mans trip when they'll get a decent workout.
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
34,593
MAF what torque settings did you do the calliper bolts up to?

Could not find it so went for 75nm
 

Contigo

Sponsor
Messages
18,376
They're definitely better, Dave - although some of the improvement will be because my old discs were past their best.

Initial impressions are very good from everyone who has fitted them - I think so far all of these cars have the Mintex pads fitted. I've not yet covered enough miles to make a suitably informed judgement, but will report back after the Le Mans trip when they'll get a decent workout.

I couldn't get the Mintex in time so have fitted pretty much new EBC red stuff to mine. I will report back once all fitted and tested
 

MAF260

Member
Messages
7,662
A socket won't fit on the rear caliper bolts so you have to use a spanner. How did you get a torque wrench to fit under the front? I couldn't find a way, so did all the bolts as tight as I could with a ratchet/spanner and then a tap with a hammer for good measure! Ones I've done before have gone on this way and come off OK so I stick with this method.
 

rs48635

Member
Messages
3,181
MAF what torque settings did you do the calliper bolts up to?

Could not find it so went for 75nm

Intersted to know the torque setting for the caliper bolts too, as this job is on my list. once the 3200 has new wishbones.

In the middle of fitting new disks and pads to the QP so want a torque setting here as well. These are located via allen cap head bolts, using 12 mm allen socket. Luckily I found a set of 3/8" drive allen sockets in my new garage !!

Wheel bolt torque as well?

Found my old3200 workshop manual on a cd-rom! use 115nm if you can get a torque device on it.



MAF
Good tip about covering 22mm socket in tape, will be doing that as soon as i go back into the garage in 5 minutes.

Tada!

3200-front-caliper-torqueJPG.jpg
 
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