Experienced GS Drivers Please Help Newbies

Maseratiman

Junior Member
Messages
214
OK, forgive my lameness...

Could long term owners please advise us newbie GS owners (there are a few on here at moment) how to drive the car in stop start traffic to reduce clutch wear. Today I got stuck in slow traffic for first time and Im sure it was a bit clunky from N to 1 from standstill (or could that have been linkage problem). Once going its A1, but the stop start wasn't nice experience. I made sure I was in N when not moving - not sure if thats right or not?

I could also smell a bit of smoke after this drive when I got home - though this might be remnants of oil from my PS radiator change on the main rad blowing through onto the engine.

Please also advise on incline Up/down driving slowly and reversing up and down hill. You hear stories like "Just don't reverse a Lamborghini up hill"..

Thanks!
 

2b1ask1

Special case
Messages
20,268
Yes they don't reverse up slopes well at all. Slow traffic, drop out of sports for a softer clutch/launch, keep grabbing neutral when you can. Learn to wait half a second for the gap to open up a bit more before pulling away always at least two car lengths, people behind will tolerate this no problem and every car length is a bonus saving on the clutch :D
 

Maseratiman

Junior Member
Messages
214
Thank you - that is the sort of advice you don't know when you start out! I did A/B test between Sports/Non Sports and it was much smoother and I supposed that meant less clutch wear...
 

Emtee

New Member
Messages
8,446
It's a bit lame, no way round it I'm afraid, but I've gotten into the habit of leaving a gap before shunting forward. Enough to get a full engagement. It doesn't like it when it isn't fully engaged and the bite point starts to move about a bit.
 

MAF260

Member
Messages
7,662
+1 for leaving a gap when in traffic. Mine's never out of sport mode so I have no idea if there's a difference in clutch uptake in first gear.
 

Maseratiman

Junior Member
Messages
214
So the blokes you see in Knightsbridge in Aventadors hooligan revving and stop starting must be massacring their clutches! I suppose money is no object..
 

Maseratiman

Junior Member
Messages
214
haha MAF thanks for chiming in! I'll bet your not out of Sports with that car. The car behind must love it!
 

Emtee

New Member
Messages
8,446
Lamborghini make tractors, they always have. They look a bit different now but they're still made out of angle iron and Dexion. Oh yes, they have dual clutch, but a quick search of lambo clutch overheating will answer your question.
 

Maseratiman

Junior Member
Messages
214
I've seen a classic Monaco valet parking video on youtube where a lambo clutch overheats badly and the poor guy is left scratching his head whilst some Americans with the video camera give him a lecture on lambo clutches!
 

mjheathcote

Centenary Club
Messages
9,038
Putting into neutral when stationary does not save clutch wear. When stationary the clutch faces are separated, so no wear, so why do it? The clutch faces only close up when you squeeze the throttle. You could say you are causing more wear by making an unnecessary gear change! Plus if you are in first, you are instantly ready to go!
Reversing up a hill. Just don't do it, if possible. I believe in reverse there is programmed clutch slip, so if there is any load (pulling the weight of the car uphill), it slips badly hence the clutch burning smell.
Moving up a hill, just don't fanny around, positive decisive throttle to get the clutch plate fully engaged with minimum slip.
 

Maseratiman

Junior Member
Messages
214
Ok, I'll try the 1st all the time then. Saves a paddle change as you say. Noted re reversing and uphill.

I've learnt a lot tonight.
 

Fat Arnie

New Member
Messages
428
Half of the above is true. If you drop it into neutral, any clucth drag is accomodated by the fact that the first motion shaft FMS is free to turn.

You will no doubt think that the FMS will not turn as you had your PIS set and there is atacho on the FMS to detect any drag. Wrong.

A month or so ago Voicey and I spent some time setting up the clutch on my car. We have set it so there is definately drag on the plates when the clucth is diengaged, but this relly sharperns up the change from the rather lame shifts I was getting with PIS at 4.3. We did set it at 3.6, but when hot the change into first had so much drag the car would occaisionally stall, so we later backed it off to 3.7. In the 150 miles it was at 3.6, no discerable clutch wear occurred. What is realli interesting is that the SD3 Emulator picked up no rotation on the FMS after a second or so. So the SD3 setup diags appear to be flawed.

What I do get at 3.7 is that reasssuring clunk when you engage first, that you get on a motorbike.

By setting ot this way, and by putting the car in neutral at every opportunity when statioary or coming to what will be a hlat of more than a few seconds, I belive I get less clutch slip, than with it at 4.2, hence longer clucth life.

Reversing up a hill should be avoided, and you should always be more brutal with the throttle when pulling away as this also reduces the amount of slip very significatly. At <10mph in 1st or reverse, the clutch is almost constantly slipping.
 

D Walker

Member
Messages
9,827
So in essence slowly pulling into and reversing out of my garage is not good for my clutch?
 

Emtee

New Member
Messages
8,446
You've got me there Arnie? There's a difference between clutch re-engaged from previously engaged gear compared to clutch engaged from neutral? In terms of the clutch engagement characteristics?
 

adam01

Member
Messages
1,079
You've got me there Arnie? There's a difference between clutch re-engaged from previously engaged gear compared to clutch engaged from neutral? In terms of the clutch engagement characteristics?

Yep, head scratching also on that
 

JoeHow

New Member
Messages
16
Trying to get involved as I learn here but if it's anything like SMG I imagine being decisive is key. It makes small manoeuvres stressful but does save the clutch on the BMW anyway.

This whole moving a long in traffic thing is nuts though, why do you need to put it in N if the clutch is dipped anyway by the car? As you engage the throttle the pump should release the clutch accordingly should it not?