Assetto Corsa Winter Works

voicey

Member
Messages
660
Do you think it's worth taking off and re sealing the 4 right angled coolant stubs (where the 4 short hoses connect to the cylinder head) ?

It doesn't appear to be leaking, but the parts diagram shows they have an o ring inside. I have ordered the o-rings for what it's worth, but I have a funny feeling that the Allen bolts will be near seized!

I would - it'd be a shame not to do it whilst you're in there. Give the bolts a few sharp taps with a hammer to shock the threads and use a quality hex key that fits snugly.

If you need any photos of bits of the engine you can't see give me a shout - I have 3 in various states of rebuild.
 

SteveM

Member
Messages
541
Have you managed to get the O rings for the injectors? (2 per injector) Maserati MD couldnt obtain or ES but managed to get some eventually from Germany via Ebay. Mine had started to deform and dry up so a worthwhile job as CEL which I had always thought was a dodgy Lambda sensor disappeared so probably a small air leak. Take care when refitting fuel rail so they all seal and dont pop out opposite end when you tighten rail down. Also make sure retaining clip is properly located in the correct groove on the injector - much harder job than anticipated so make sure you check for any fuel leaks before firing engine back up.
 

urquattrogus

Member
Messages
855
Yes I manged to get them. It's a Weber IW injector as used on the Fiat Coupe Turbo and other cars, you can but kits from ebay. The kit comprises of two o rings, filter baskets, and the blue end caps.

I have a set of 8 if anyone needs them.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152238334...AMo=&rt=nc&_trksid=p4340.l2557&orig_cvip=true

In the end I let the fuel injection people use their own stock.

I agree about small air leaks, the o rings seemed somewhat dry/shrivelled and dirty and I'm not convinced they were sealing 100%

Yes, got to be careful when putting it back together! The to o-ring to rail seals have also been replaced, so should have a good seal.
 

urquattrogus

Member
Messages
855
My Roose Hoses arrived today, and new T Stat too. (coolant hoses and turbo oil return pipes)

In the past I have ordered my own hoses and adapted to suit, but I must say, it's really nice to have a complete kit and also with the right size jubilee clips. I have loads of clips, but they never seem to be the right size whatever you do!

You can't beat stainless JCS clips for quality either!

They are all a special order oem style matt black, which I think looks really good and will fit in nicely.

IMG_20161027_1752443.jpgIMG_20161027_1752356.jpg
 

Contigo

Sponsor
Messages
18,376
The Turbo coolant pipes are an absolute ******* to do, you have to remove v belt , pulley and Alternatir to get to the near side one.
 

allandwf

Member
Messages
10,987
I didn't think they would be easy, after all I got a new leg caliper to fit to mine that looked an easy enough job initially! I might just get a set and add to the growing list of engine out jobs.
 

Trev Latter

Member
Messages
1,213
Did you get the oil return pipes from turbo to sump too Gus? Mine were rock solid and cracked when I changed my hoses.


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urquattrogus

Member
Messages
855
Yes ordered some, I think they are the ones in the packet at top RHS. I remembered you telling me, and then worried about red hot oil starting a fire!

Don't carry an extinguisher in this one like I do in the alfa, maybe I should!
 

Trev Latter

Member
Messages
1,213
Looks like it. I wasn't too concerned about an oil fire, more like oil starvation wrecking the engine due to it all leaking away while driving. By the time the oil pressure drop showed up, the damage probably would have been terminal. Thankfully it was caught in good time.


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urquattrogus

Member
Messages
855
Well, I've been so busy over the past couple of months, plus waiting for parts, that there hasn't been much progress.

Started up again now.

In the process of replacing all coolant hoses, sensors and sending some parts away to be powder coated. Also fitting a new starter.

So far the coolant temp sender, crankshaft position sender are done, knock and crankshaft position now easy to do too.

It's been good to remove the crystallised coolant crud from the V of the block, can't of done the knock sensors any good.

Untitled1.jpgUntitled2.jpgUntitled3.jpgUntitled4.jpg



I have so much apart now that it does make me wonder if I should consider doing the cam-belt too, as it's due in the next 6-8 months or so based on age.

The only problem being that I'm not confident on doing that one alone, i would like someone who has done one before to do it and or help.

I think the rad needs to come out and I need to use an impact gun on the crankshaft pulley, my main concern is how to lock the timing?

Does anyone have any ideas? Do any of the independents do the odd bit of mobile work?

Failing that I can just leave it an get it done later this year I suppose.

Edited: Just checked the car history Cam belt not due for another year, a nice surprise!
 

philw696

Member
Messages
25,377
It's been posted on the forum a couple of times by other 3200 owners.
Not a bad job but you need to follow good engineering practice.
 

alfatwo

Member
Messages
5,517
It's been posted on the forum a couple of times by other 3200 owners.
Not a bad job but you need to follow good engineering practice.

Phil, Is it possible the to change the 3200 low oil level sender in situ? as It's right behind the alternator and the cable runs up behind the timing belt covers.

Dave
 

philw696

Member
Messages
25,377
Don't know the answer to that Dave.
Didn't do a lot of 3200 when I was at the Dealership.
Maybe Aldos or Marios can answer the question.
 

urquattrogus

Member
Messages
855
Going to leave the cam belt well alone and get someone else to do it at a later date.

Now the real Agro has started! Replacing the top hoses is all fairly straightforward, but..

Changing the turbo coolant return hoses and oil return hoses underneath the car now.

I hate those tabbed folded over hose clips!! They are bad enough when you have fulll access to them, let alone when you're under the car and trying to get access to try and pry them open deep inside the engine bay, right at then end of your stretch, one is behind the subframe leg ffs!

It will be done, but it's slow and agonising!!