Ghibli Cam Belt change

Wally

Member
Messages
244
Usually i grease the new shoelace-gasket with a special sealant they use at Audi. This makes the lace stick better to the rear cover and offers extra protection against leaking.
I'll try to look up the Audi-partnumber for you.
 

del mar

Junior Member
Messages
257
We have met before....... albeit briefly

I had the De Tomaso at Brands Hatch this summer.

Just outside Dartford, happy to offer you a beer if you are in this direction, I guess it depends if you want to see the car in pieces or in a working condition......
 

del mar

Junior Member
Messages
257
rockers covers are back.

An hours rubbing with medium then fine files followed paper papers and polish. There is a lot of media and it sticks to everything, needs a lot to clean it off so you don't end up with it in your engine !

painted.jpg
polished.jpg
 

Needamaser

Member
Messages
1,491
Planning doing similar on my car and did wonder about debris finding its way in.
Makes a huge difference though. Looks great. Effort worthwhile!
 

HaydnW

Junior Member
Messages
63
That looks fantastic! I see you went for the gloss finish as opposed to the crinkle paint, I'll have to repaint my cam covers and intake assembly as they look terrible and may do the same as you - I was planning on using crinkle paint but after seeing these pictures I might not bother. Crinkle paint looks good but can be tricky to get right/an even finish.
 

del mar

Junior Member
Messages
257
I think it is "semi gloss".

You need to drill out the splash guard on the other side, otherwise it will be full of blasting media which does your bottom end no favours...

If i was doing it again;

I would get the powder coaters to blast it, take it home stick it in the dishwasher and clean all the media out and then send it back to be sprayed.

I had had it redone with VHT crinkle years ago, and found it very difficult to clean.
 

Needamaser

Member
Messages
1,491
If i was doing it again;

I would get the powder coaters to blast it, take it home stick it in the dishwasher and clean all the media out and then send it back to be sprayed.

Great idea. I am giving mine to a pal who is a powdercoater and he dips in an acid bath and blasts before coating.
Would make sense to stick it in the dishwasher at that point.
Today's top tip!
 

spacecadet

Member
Messages
378
Looking good. Also on my todo list, mostly the intake manifold. Unfortunately didn't do it last time when I had to remove it because of the broken plastic union in the back.
 

del mar

Junior Member
Messages
257
Problems !

In order to re attach the splash guard on the underside of the cam cover, the TIG welder will probably heat it to a point where it melts the new powder coat - bugger.

Do I actually need it ?
Arguments for appear to be it directs oil splashes back onto the cams? the oil isn't going anywhere else
It protects the exit hole for the oil breather pipe from getting oil splashed into it - maybe ?

What about something like
JB weld high heat ?

I will look again at drilling and tapping a thread but there isint much metal to play with.

It literally needs to be stuck on.
 

GeoffCapes

Member
Messages
14,000
We have met before....... albeit briefly

I had the De Tomaso at Brands Hatch this summer.

Just outside Dartford, happy to offer you a beer if you are in this direction, I guess it depends if you want to see the car in pieces or in a working condition......

Ahh yes, I remember it well.
I'll give you a shout when I pick my 4200 up from Giallo. Whenever that maybe.......
 

del mar

Junior Member
Messages
257
Covers have been tapped and threaded, and a good dose of lock tight should hold the splash guard in place.

I swapped the alternator, air con, and ps belts, they were a pig the air con one is entwined with the oil cooler pipes so that needed to come off !!

Both rear covers are back on with new seals - could you change the chains and sprockets with the engine still in place ? I don't see what not I scratched and cut my hands to buggery, but there is space to get at them.

Intake manifold is back on, just waiting on the radiator.

Was at Foskers at the weekend and mentioned that I was putting it back together, they were not keen to get involved with it.......
 

ZAM400209

Member
Messages
585
terrific work- a lesson to us all, i think

i was going to ask you about the splash-panels on the rear of the cam covers- did you have to drill them off, though the spot weld..?

have you got any pictures of that..?

I was told to tension up the alternator, with a block of wood!

so, IT'S TRUE then? You reckon you 'could' do the chains at the rear with the engine in place? (I know yours has had the chains done already)
 

del mar

Junior Member
Messages
257
I drilled the rivet heads off, then had to drill and tap, welding was getting it too hot - melting the powder coat. An m4 tap and some 8mm machine screws should hold them and not protrude too far so as to hit the cams ! Will have pictures.

Alternator - I used a crow bar to leverage it.

I imagine leaving the belt on, keeping the car in 6th gear standing on the brake should hold everything in place to allow you enough force to undo the nuts with a large spanner - you may even be able to get a socket in there.
 

spacecadet

Member
Messages
378
I imagine leaving the belt on, keeping the car in 6th gear standing on the brake should hold everything in place to allow you enough force to undo the nuts with a large spanner - you may even be able to get a socket in there.

Handy info as this is the next on my current todo list (still not sure if I want to do it, probably not).
 

del mar

Junior Member
Messages
257
It is a flat piece of metal nothing special about it, the cover underneath looks the same on both sides.

screwed in.jpg
 

ZAM400209

Member
Messages
585
was that in alloy then (/aluminium)

did you try for Tig welding on that..?

are the bolts & tapping in the exact points of the original spot welds..?