3200 TB & Pedal Pot

davy83

Member
Messages
2,821
Happy you have a result sir. With luck it will run for a while and let you enjoy it!
 

Marcog

New Member
Messages
7
Hi there.

Good to know I am not the only one with problems. Long story short
1) TB has been changed
2) The pedal pot came new from Candini in Modena on February and installed. Everything was fine for a few months.
A couple of weeks ago, while standing still, the engine run to 7000. I stopped the engine, detached the battery and then put it back on again. No change, so I brought the car back to the garage and the guy told me, after a scan check, that the problem is the pedal pot. The funny thing was that he installed the old pedal pot, gave a couple of bang on it and it worked fine. He did the same with the new pedal pot and everything was fine again : 1000 rpm.

I have seen different suggestions and ideas either here and in other pages but, as my case is a bit peculiar, I wonder if you could provide the right path to solution.
Many thanks in advance

Marco
 

davy83

Member
Messages
2,821
Hi Marco. Sounds like probably two problems. Are your white and yellow wires connected together in the loom in the car? Because revving to 7000 rpm suggests full throttle demand, and if you have two redundant outputs this should never happen, unless they both fail open circuit at exactly the same time? the high revs would probably be due to a ground connection being open circuit, and if banging it makes it better then it suggests there is a bad contact on the car wiring. I would start by replacing the connector on the car side with a new one you can get them from RS components or Mouser or i can sell you the parts if it helps, i have these somewhere, they are not expensive. The parts you need are
mating TE connector TE 175658
Mating connector contacts TE 173630
 

Marcog

New Member
Messages
7
Hi Davy, many thanks for your answer
The guys at the workshop told me that there is a component insidie the ECU which is heating up irregularly and it could be the probable cause. Now ECU is under investigation; however I just passed your suggestion above to the workshop...let's see what pans out.
Sorry for my late feedback.
 

RMC

Junior Member
Messages
41
As mine was done in 8000 miles ago in December 2013 for £1460 by Graypaul with the previous owner, I guess it's of the factory type, and likely to give trouble sometime in the next few years ?
 

davy83

Member
Messages
2,821
The original pedal pot sensor from Bosch to my reckoning only lasts a few years, my car had 3 replacements in the first 10 years, and so I made my own contact-less replacement as to me this seemed crazy (the contact less replacement has been 7 years on my car now without problems). It depends how much you drive it of course, since it appears to be wear that causes the failure. And its not just the part breaking that causes the problem its the matching between the two outputs. Maserati set a very tight level of matching on the two outputs and so very slight uneven wear makes it throw an error (this is why joining the white and yellow wires works, as it makes the two outputs the same, although this also removes the system to prevent WOT on sensor failure). This was changed on the 4200 so this problem went away.

As mine was done in 8000 miles ago in December 2013 for £1460 by Graypaul with the previous owner, I guess it's of the factory type, and likely to give trouble sometime in the next few years ?
 

Danny

Member
Messages
443
Davy, I still haven't fitted the one I purchased from you as my current one was (until recently) still doing fine. However, I heard from someone who fitted your pp, that his loud pedal is now very light, making the drive a little bit nervous. Could it be that you used a different spring (or a different angle) for your contactless pp?
 

davy83

Member
Messages
2,821
Hi Danny
I tried as best i could to get the spring forces to be the same as the original so the feel would not change. Its not as easy as it looks :). There is some variation in the spring forces and so some of them are lighter than others, if your friend is unhappy with the feel i can try to stiffen it up a bit and replace the spring, its not that easy to do, but i am happy to try! I guess the one fitted to my own car is probably a bit lighter than the original but i have got used to it.
 

allandwf

Member
Messages
10,987
Hi Danny
I tried as best i could to get the spring forces to be the same as the original so the feel would not change. Its not as easy as it looks :). There is some variation in the spring forces and so some of them are lighter than others, if your friend is unhappy with the feel i can try to stiffen it up a bit and replace the spring, its not that easy to do, but i am happy to try! I guess the one fitted to my own car is probably a bit lighter than the original but i have got used to it.
They must vary slightly, as mine is almost identical. :)
 

Marcog

New Member
Messages
7
Update.

It seems that the problem with high rpm appears when the engine is warmed up. At this point I wonder whether there could be an additional offender, outside the pedal pot (which is new) or the throttle body or the ECU.
Any idea?
Regards
 

Marcog

New Member
Messages
7
The guys at the workshop are reassessing the whole in/out flow system to determine which is which: O-rings, sensors, valves, tubes....The car is a pain in the axx
 

davy83

Member
Messages
2,821
Sent
I may try to post it somewhere here for all to share, its not a secret.

i have now written a detailed installation procedure for any one who suspects the mechanical set up has been tweaked or is not right. i can send it to any one who wants it.
If the pedal sensor idle position gives an output below .35v it will not calibrate, and there is no indication it has failed. Also if the two outputs are different by more than about 0.015v then it also will not calibrate and so it wont work. So i would check the two outputs are ok and also make sure the zero volts is steady. Connect one lead of you meter to the car body and measure the zero volts on the sensor leads and make sure its stable. another thing that's worth a try is to measure the voltage outputs on the car side of the connector and wiggle the connector around make sure no intermittent connections.

Could you please send the installation procedure to me? Thanks
My email marco@deepmail.com[/QUOTE]
 

Marcog

New Member
Messages
7
@Davi83.

Sorry to be a pain, my deepmail address is not working properly
Please use this
Marco_garito2000@yahoo.com.

Thanks
Marco
 

Marcog

New Member
Messages
7
Is there any fast way to detect air leaks or I have to go through the whole system to check o-rings, tubes, sensors etc, end to end?
Regards
 

Lozzer

Member
Messages
2,283
Read about some sort of "fog" test , don't know the procedure for that though, me, I generally spray dampstart everywhere whilst listening for a change in rev's.
 

davy83

Member
Messages
2,821
Yes also heard of some technique with smoke to see air leaks. If you suspect air leaking it it most likely a vacuum hose around the plenum or the most common is the cover under the plenum comes loose and this creates a leak, you need to remove the whole plenum to get into this however.

Is there any fast way to detect air leaks or I have to go through the whole system to check o-rings, tubes, sensors etc, end to end?
Regards
 

MRichards

Member
Messages
283
Any service shop will do a smoke test to detect leaks in the system. It's quick & easy.
It's just a furnace which burns oil to produce a dense smoke which is pumped into the air intake. Any leaks will allow smoke to escape,instantly visible. In my country we burn Christians instead,produce lots of smoke.:alan: