Potential new owner, Help please?

atreyu1

Member
Messages
183
Hi all,

I'm going to view a 4200 tomorrow. I have read a little about them but I'm no expert. It's just a car I've fancied since they came out. I have owned a classic Maserati in the past (prior to the prices going astronomical) so I understand the nature of the cars and used to be a Maserati club member at the time.

The car in question is a 2003 4200 with 60K on the clock. Would someone be kind enough to tell me what the usual pitfalls are and what to look for? The owner says the clutch is coming up to needing replacing, but doesn't slip. From what I read on an American page, this is a job I feel I could tackle myself, although the clutch kit is far from cheap!

Am I correct in thinking a 2003 should have a slightly better gearbox than the earlier cars? From what I've read should I expect it to still be a little "clunky"? Is there any way to identify if has the later gearbox? Eg. How do I know its not a late registered earlier car?

A newer model is out of the question for me, so please can anyone advice on this particular year of 4200.
 

hladun

Member
Messages
149
I'm not sure there are mechanical differences in the gearbox, but maybe in the electronics. You can replace the clutch but then you need someone with the wildly expensive SD unit to set it and that costs money. Usual problems: heater core leaks, sticky buttons, possibly suspension arm cracks (more for the 3200's) and mainly the CC clutch system. The engines are reliable unless the owners destroy them.
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,778
Software may be different, but some of the upgrades can be, and will have been applied to any year car. I believe the GS has a slightly different box.
There is some discussion as to whether the later software is better. My 4200 had the original software and it provided a wonderful kick in the back when driving 'con brio'

Some members have even gone as far as sourcing TCU's with the original software to replace units with later versions. The 'upgrade' cannot be reverted once applied.

So the short answer is the TCU may be running any version. Only way to tell will be to plug it into an SD3 or similar. As for clunky, there's no reason it should be. But it may take you some time to get used to it ;)

60k would probably be looking at its second clutch. But it wont need replacing until it fails. With respect I'd be surprised if you could do it yourself. Unless you mean 'do it then take it to a specialist with the diagnostic gear required to set it up properly, on the back of a trailer' in which case, you might well :) The correct set up is pretty much essential if you don't want to toast it almost immediately. There's other ancilliaries you want to change as well. Someone will have the whole list, but from memory: position sensor, release bearing, spigot bearing spring to mind.

Pitfalls:
Check the suspension arms for cracks. The car really needs to be in the air for this, though.
Wet foot wells indicate either a leaking matrix which is £1000 of labour plus £50 for an Alfa 166 unit. Or blocked pollen filter which is an hour's easy DIY. Either one needs sorting or you'll get fried ECU's and fusebox. Worst case the car will burn.

Other little bits: Suspension bushes, door locks, windows, boot lock. Oil pump has given some potential, but impact seems limited. Rocker covers weeping is annoying, and may leak onto the manifolds. That gets smelly and potentially a fore risk. DIY possible, but fiddly.

Plenty of other advice to come. Bloody great cars. I loved mine. Had more miles than the one you're looking at and is still on the forum.

Post a link to the car you're interested in. We may have history on it.

C
 

safrane

Member
Messages
16,854
Good luck with the purchase.

I sold my 2003 revised 4200 with similar miles back in 2011 for £13k.

To recognise a 2004MY car over the 2003MY car the latter has bolts holding the reverse selector down.

As abive but also check for play in the steering rack as the rose joints can wear and it requires a new rack as the spares kit is no longer available. Rust under the rear lights is the main chrosion point. Cam covers weap and cost £200 each to fix. Service history...it should have had 13 services. Radiator and PS radiator are known to weap and some hoses will be at the end of their life. F1 pump should sound fast on charging, if slow it is old and worn out. Knocks from suspension could be the ball joints in them. New from a MD anr many £££ but pattern ones are available at a 1/4 of the price.

Best of luck.
 

atreyu1

Member
Messages
183
Thanks for the replies so far, It's really appreciated. It's great to see this forum is full of knowledgeable people who understand their cars!

The car was this one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322395992324?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I HPI'd it this morning and it came back as CAT C write off from 2009. There was little service history. The owner seemed very honest and I think he's open to offers on the car but its not the example for me. For such a prestige car, the paint in a few areas didn't seem up to scratch and there was a sign of filler in the rear 3/4 panel, So I suspect some pretty serious accident damage. The owner said the clutch slipped when pushed hard, so I'd also be worried about high spots on the flywheel. It starts to get very costly.
Replacing the clutch myself shouldn't be a hard job, but as you say CatmanV2, it still means trailering the car to a friendly garage to set the computer parameters. The owner of the ebay car reckoned the local Porsche garage said they could do it, although I'm not too sure about that one? Either way, this particular one isn't for me.

I am now thinking I should find a true manual transmission car, I presume clutch kits are cheaper for these and also it wont have the PIS system? So am I correct in thinking things will be simpler?

Any thoughts on this one? It's a long journey to go and view it, but I'd rather travel for the right car.
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201601130047846

I'd consider a 3200 but the throttle body issues and crankshaft end float horror stories put me off, granted I have a lot to learn about both models, but the 4200 seems the more "sorted" car.
 

beau

Member
Messages
1,391
iv had a manual 4200, they are more basic being a manual, the clutches do last longer too.

that blue one you have put up, it says excellent condition but i the front bumper doesn't match and i can see rust bubbles in the photos, and photos hide a lot, so id be careful going a long way to view personally.
 

rockits

Member
Messages
9,172
What you need is a nice 4200 manual that looks like a GranSport. If only there was one that was just about to come onto the market
 

rockits

Member
Messages
9,172
you polished it and got new photos yet ?
Nope! Sore subject at the moment. I gave it to a contact of my brother's mid December to let him advertise, deal with and sell it as he has a showroom/forecourt in Herts.

He has had it a month but still not officially up for sale yet. Should be shortly but I haven't the time to sell myself at the moment. If it doesn't change in the next 4 weeks I'll take it back then get it cut, polished and will sell it myself.
 

Gazcw

Member
Messages
7,763
Was the filler obvious on the offside? I think this may be the same vehicle I viewed in Northamptonshire. Same colours and age. It had to have new wishbone as it was ripped off apparently. No books or service history until after repair and at the time no info on clutch change. I walked without asking for keys. Even the garage that was selling it for owner said it was not great and the drive was not great.
 

Gp79

Member
Messages
1,398
Get any purchase on a ramp if possible - Check sub frames for rust!

You are at the bottom of the market there so most will have something that needs doing
 

FIFTY

Member
Messages
3,100
Other things to look out for are the usual consumables, brake discs (inner face), pads and tyres. The rear track rod ends are susceptible to failing every 10-20k. All of these can be fixed fairly cheap but it depends if you budget for replacing them after purchase you might be able to haggle the price down.

Also if you can avoid a car that has missed major services. That said it could have a full main dealer service history and not had various fluids and filters changed due to cutting corners