New brakes - issues?

P R

Member
Messages
1,382
Yes it was a local mech who mentioned the pads seemed tight.
One other plot thickening bit of info was when I gave chassis number to Maserati dealer supplying the discs, the system had my car having the larger, drilled sports brakes. I know that when the local dealer (different one) fitted the pads, they didn't have them in stock and had to order them in, I wonder if they just ordered the pads based on the system and fitted them (not sure this is even possible but something to rule out at least)
 

rs48635

Member
Messages
3,181
pads are the same dimension, to match callipers. My own Sport GT has the drilled disks and suspect they sell 'uprated" pads too. The disks , pads and caliper are all the same on QP until model update circa 2009.
 

j s pollo

Member
Messages
162
I recomended discs to be skimmed when changing pads new discs and pads were eventually fitted to my vehicle 3 years later when worn out
I worked in the Aircraft industry and we do not take shortcuts with braking systems on aircraft wots good for an Airbus is good for my motor their brake heatpacks are carbon
a dozen discs per brake. hopefully my views are clearer .
 

P R

Member
Messages
1,382
If anyone is still interested in this long and boring saga.. car in for service, garage say pads are almost down to a minimum (after 20k miles, last ones lasted 40k). Discs are warped. The caliper inspection that is included in the service is visual only so to investigate they want money. Even though they say the car is serviced and all is ok!
Anyway, they offered a small discount on a new set of front pads and discs so to hopefully put an end to a year of annoying wobbling brakes I have given the go ahead to fit new ones.
 

Razz

Junior Member
Messages
123
Having had progressive brake judder on my QP, starting at high speeds and then pulsating at low speeds I resolved as follows:

1. Took off all discs and pads, front and rear.
2. Thorough clean of the calliper pistons - you might be surprised at how much stiff gunk builds up, especially at he front. Use at least 3 cans of brake cleaner.
3. Replace rear brake shoes, mine were shot.
4. Replace all 4 discs and pads. If you buy OEM discs it is best to use oem pads for a better friction match.
5. MOST importantly RUB out rust and dirt on the hub carrier - leading cause of run out. The hub surface should be shiny once rubbed down.

I did all the work myself and OEM discs and pads set back £1700

This worked for me and totally judder free. Front discs are bigger and more likely to warp under consistent severe braking, you should get about 20-30k from fronts and 40-50 at the back.


If there is a failed piston it is easy to spot with pads out as it will not move on pressing the brakes.
It is much more common for discs to warp than pistons seize.

Hope you get your maser back to health soon

Best
Razz
 

MrMickS

Member
Messages
3,951
I was surprised that you got so much wear out of your initial set of brakes, given that mine only lasted just over 30k. Probably my last minute braking responsible for that though.

I did get all of the pads changed and have had no issues since. I am expect to have to replace pads and discs the next time around, but hopefully not until some time towards the end of next year.

I hope these new pads and disc solve your problem. Its always nice to get a little discount. I managed to get something off when mine were done.
 

P R

Member
Messages
1,382
I was surprised that you got so much wear out of your initial set of brakes, given that mine only lasted just over 30k. Probably my last minute braking responsible for that though.

I did get all of the pads changed and have had no issues since. I am expect to have to replace pads and discs the next time around, but hopefully not until some time towards the end of next year.

I hope these new pads and disc solve your problem. Its always nice to get a little discount. I managed to get something off when mine were done.
All done and enjoying smooth braking again. It was an expensive do but hopefully will put an end to it. As for wear the pads lasted less than the front tyres.. i dont think that's right?
The rears are still looking ok at 63k miles by the way. Plenty of meat on the pads.

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MrMickS

Member
Messages
3,951
Good news that its back to braking well. That doesn't sound right on the pad life. Though that's about the life I'm getting out of a set of fronts... You can make your own judgement about my driving style ;)
 

P R

Member
Messages
1,382
And the result is.... vibration under braking at highish speeds. Think I will sell it lol
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
34,593
I have seen this a lot on the coupes and again, new pads and skimmed discs didn’t resolve it for more than a week.

It turned out to be the pads expanding when hot and sticking in the caliper.

On the coupes, there is a stainless pad guide screwed to the caliper. Over time the alloy of the caliper reacts against each other and the resulting corrosion pushes the caliper guides up. The easiest and quickest way is to file the pads so they are quite loose. On a car your age I would have thought this unlikely but I would file the pads.

If the discs are warped, take the car back and demand it’s resolved!
 

P R

Member
Messages
1,382
Yes its done around 200 miles, of which half of them were in snow!
I have a feeling the alloy refurbishment might have something to do with it but not sure how. Last Dec when the original pads were replaced, the alloys were "re cut". Since then I've had issues. (They also did the alloy refurb, twice, as the first time the finish was appalling).
If you mount a disc using the grub screws, then torque on your alloy, if the alloy isn't true could it then move the disc so its not straight anymore? This would also give the fluctuation on the MOT brake force gauges.
Either way it'll be going back in
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
34,593
Could also be wishbone or trackrod balljoints?

Don’t the steering racks on those cars have an inherent issue?
 

P R

Member
Messages
1,382
It was showing uneven force on the MOT tester, and the previous new discs had run out on them, so don't think its that
 

wink

Junior Member
Messages
85
I have seen this a lot on the coupes and again, new pads and skimmed discs didn't resolve it for more than a week.

It turned out to be the pads expanding when hot and sticking in the caliper.

On the coupes, there is a stainless pad guide screwed to the caliper. Over time the alloy of the caliper reacts against each other and the resulting corrosion pushes the caliper guides up. The easiest and quickest way is to file the pads so they are quite loose. On a car your age I would have thought this unlikely but I would file the pads.

If the discs are warped, take the car back and demand it's resolved!

+1 for this explanation. Exactly the same happens with the Brembo brakes on the Fiat Coupe. Though I'd say the proper solution is to remove the stainless steel guides, clean up the corrosion on the calipers and refit. If this is done properly there's no need to file the pads.
 

MrMickS

Member
Messages
3,951
And the result is.... vibration under braking at highish speeds. Think I will sell it lol

I'd park it at the dealers, ask for a courtesy car, and say you don't want it back until its fixed. After this time you've got ample evidence that its the same fault so they should be the ones trying to find the root cause.

Who sorted the wheels? Was it the dealer or someone else?
 

P R

Member
Messages
1,382
The alloys were done by the dealer (well by whoever they send them to but arranged by the dealer and the dealer invoiced and was paid by me).

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