3200 brake lines

RSM Masser

Member
Messages
2,437
A well known issue and relatively easy fix.
After an MoT advisory and a very lucky escape when at 10mph the brake lines split above the rear wheel arch, causing another entry in 'the low loader thread' the challenge of replacing the corroded parts was under taken.

Jacking the car quite high on the near side gave easy access to the pipes, although a re routed stainless exhaust did hamper visual inspections. The near side union onto the flex hose is tucked right out of the way, on top of the rear chassis andositioned exactly where a torch needs to be or your eyes to see it.
The flex hose uses a 17mm spanner, the brake union 11mm, get yourself a slotted brake spanner (£5 from Halfrauds) as open jawed spanners can slip, the build up of rust doesn't help either, spray with WD40 and leave for a few minutes, then deft body positioning to get a good purchase, leverage and visual on the little blighter and off it came. It is worth spending time ensuring the spanners are correctly placed, once rounded off and they are soft it would be a real pain.
There is also a circlip which holds the flex line in place, easy to prise off, clean up paint and replace. It has a raised flat side, push with a blunt screwdriver away from the pipe at 90 degrees.

The off side was even easier and much more accessible, undone in a jiffy. The rotten steel hoses are clipped to a larger pipe (fuel I think) prise out carefully with a blunt screwdriver. I cut them as I went so all the awkward bits around rear axles etc came out easily.

Nearer the front the pipes disappear behind a fibre glass heat shield, remove the four 8mm bolts and it moves enough to release and remove the brake lines - there are 2 clips behind it - you can't remove it because it goes all the way around the bell housing!

Next up is under the bonnet, buried behind a heat shield and behind the aluminium brake distribution block is another smaller joint box. Remove the coil packs and heat shield for ease of access and undo the 6mm Allen bolt. I left the two connections at the front in place, the square block at the back has the offending corroded lines connected. I couldn't undo these so removed them from the aluminium block as it was easier. The aluminium is helpfully marked to ensure correct re fitting (FR - Front Right if you are sat in the car)

Refitting was not as easy, I used 3/16 soft copper pipe with 10x1mm unions - £12 eBay. An imperial brake flare kit, also £12 eBay (you will need some practice to get a good flare, took me 3 or 4 attempts, remove the burrs and lubricate with some brake fluid) 25 feet is plenty to do both lines, the offside is slightly longer.

Copper bends easily so I fitted the two lines to the small block then threaded the long ends down past the gearbox and under the car. Simply clip the lines to the plastic clips and mould to the shape of the car, getting them up and past the rear anti roll bar is a mission in dexterity and perseverance!

Once fitted and nipped up its bleeding time!
REMEMBER
There are two bleed nipples per wheel - do both ( it doesn't work if you only do one - trust me!!!) it's easier to remove all the road wheels.
I started as convention inside nipple nearest the brake balance box (near side front, osf, then nsr and finally osr)

I didn't take many photos but a top tip is tape up the ends of the pipe when threading them around the car, stops any dirt getting in.
I used new Dot 4 fluid, the car takes 1.3 litres - I used 2 litres and made sure I flushed out all the old golden coloured fluid.

The brakes are different feel much more positive, I will do the shorter ends on the fronts and possibly replace the flex hose with braided lines from Goodridge. I called them, for c£25 a corner they will match your hose like for like in 2-4 days braided in any colour you like , black, blue, red, green whatever! if and when I get the forum discs the car will stop on a sixpence!

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Last edited:

NickP

Member
Messages
1,623
Adding some 'tips' having just replaced my rear pipes with the sub frame dropped.

  1. Unless you have the hands of a child its best to fully remove the aluminium brake block to access the smaller block below.
  2. If this is the first time your pipes have been done then you'll probably be unable to undo the pipes in the connector on the bulkhead in situ - I cut the lower pipes off, this allows you to get the smaller block and the pipes that go to the ali block in a vice and get the remains out easier.
  3. My heat shield under the car was held in place by 4 philips headed screws, all of them were seized and rounded out, take a set of vice grips and some patience, they will come out. I've replaced mine with stainless hex bolts.
  4. Do your first flare with your new pipe out the car - its easier than trying to make flares next to the bulk head
  5. Do the drivers side pipe first as this sits in the centre clip all the way from front to rear and is top pipe in the connector block.
  6. When reconnecting the pipes in the ali block do those at the rear first and then work forwards so you don't end up with pipes unable to go in their holes.