DBW install, New shift paddles and steering wheel

redsonnylee

Member
Messages
1,540
The plan at the moment is to get some aluminium plate, cut it to the shape of the originals bend it up, drill and tap and screw the paddles to it....

Blimey, when I did metal work at school, I only made a tin opener for paint cans :)
 

tcrote5516

Junior Member
Messages
86
The plan at the moment is to get some aluminium plate, cut it to the shape of the originals bend it up, drill and tap and screw the paddles to it....

That's exactly what I did with mine only using the original aluminum brackets. My paddles were very worn and not worth saving so I didn't tear up too much hacking into them. I looked at the exact same paddles when I ordered the aluminum ones. I was really on the fence and the only reason I choose the aluminum is it's easy to modify (bent/cut/drill). I can't wait to see what you come up with because I may copy it :)
 

D Walker

Member
Messages
9,827
My new paddles from Maserati Life via McChristyUK formerly of this parish, Alcantara on the rear, I will probably get some filler in black to fill the UP / DOWN inscriptions.

IMG_1407[1].jpg
IMG_1408[1].jpg
IMG_1409[1].jpg
 

D Walker

Member
Messages
9,827
If someone wants to do that I wont fit them - perhaps 3d scan them for size and then produce drawing for an engineering firm to make...
 

Zep

Moderator
Messages
9,110
If someone wants to do that I wont fit them - perhaps 3d scan them for size and then produce drawing for an engineering firm to make...

If I could borrow them to take a mould that would be cracking.
 

jasst

Member
Messages
2,313
I vaguely remember the thread on Maserati life when these were first talked about, think they were talking about a dimpled effect as an option, not sure I like the alcantara.
 

D Walker

Member
Messages
9,827
I vaguely remember the thread on Maserati life when these were first talked about, think they were talking about a dimpled effect as an option, not sure I like the alcantara.

You’re welcome to centre pop the backs to your hearts content.....

When zep has the mould you can spec to your wallets content, carbon fibre etc etc...
 

tcrote5516

Junior Member
Messages
86
I was PM'ed asking for additional details on the front engine cover seal replacement. As I began to type it out it seemed like it deserved to be posted so others could also reference it in the future so here ya go:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Did you have to remove the radiator to help gain access? Was it a real pain to do - how many hours?

Any help would be gratefully received!

Regards

[/QUOTE]

The good news is no, the radiator doesn't need to come out. The bad news is, almost everything else does. It wasn't a pain but it is a bit time consuming because so much has to be removed. I would say it's about a 5-6 hour job for the average home mechanic. Here's what needs to be done after draining the oil and coolant of course:

1: Remove intake hose and throttle body
2. Remove metal EGR pipe that runs from each exhaust manifold across the front of the engine.
3. Remove both cooling fans
4. Remove belt
5. Remove drive pulley/balancer
6. Remove AC compressor and power steering pump and just let them rest off to the side (no need to disconnect any hoses)
7. IMPORTANT - Take a piece of poster board or similar and draw out the shape of the front engine cover marking where each bolt is located. YOU WILL NEED THIS AS A GUIDE because there is something like 8 different size bolts that make up the 30+/- bolts that secure the cover. Remembering where each size is located would be impossible. I made a guide where I traced a pattern of each bolt based and numbered each size as I removed them so the smallest were #1 and the largest was #8 for example. I wrote the number of the bolt in the corresponding location on my drawing for reassembly.
8. The front cover can be removed without taking the intake manifold and cam covers off. It would be a easier to do if you removed them but it's not necessary. You just need to remove the 3 front most bolts in each cam cover as they anchor into the front engine cover. You will also need to modify (cut down) an allen wrench to access two of the bolts that secure the cam chain tensioner on the left cylinder bank because the intake manifold is about 1/2" away from it. Again, removing the intake would make this easier if you were so inclined.
9. Once you are sure all bolts are out it's just a matter of slowly and carefully prying the cover loose. The area that will put up the most fight is that leaking crank seal but the good news is you don't need to worry about damaging it!

Make sure you order the front cover seal as well as the water pump gasket and the two small water jacket seals that come from each head and go through the front cover. They will need to be replaced. Below is the order I placed with Ricambi America including part numbers and it includes all needed seals. Hope this helps and let me know if you have any other questions. -Tom

Product Name SKU Price Qty Subtotal
Subtotal $123.79
Shipping & Handling $6.50
Grand Total $130.29
O-Ring
141250
$0.90

Ordered: 10
Shipped: 10
$9.00

132829 O RING FOR WATER PUMP
132829
$1.58

Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1
$1.58

137873 GASKET
137873
$4.66

Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1
$4.66

188717 SEALING RING FOR FRONT ENGINE COVER
188717
$13.96

Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1
$13.96

245464 FRONT COVER GASKET
245464
$56.73

Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1
$56.73

183010 O.R. GASKET
183010
$1.61

Ordered: 2
Shipped: 2
$3.22