conaero
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Dent man couldn't get to an @rse print on the top of the door and a ding in the rear quarter, you have to strip is all out to get the rear quarter panel out without breaking it.
Hello Babe
- Thread starter conaero
- Start date
Dent man couldn't get to an @rse print on the top of the door and a ding in the rear quarter, you have to strip is all out to get the rear quarter panel out without breaking it.
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What a nuisance! I'm in tomorrow for an easy ding by the fuel cap (accessible by opening the fuel cap) and a more challenging one half way down the middle of the passenger door. Let's see what miracles Dent Devils can perform.
Vampyrebat
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There is a new method for getting awkward to get to (internal) dents out. They use a resin type glue suction pad to firstly pull the dent/ding outward, then carefully hammer back in to shape. BUT you need good solid paint or you could end up with more of a mess!!
conaero
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A better day today, new AC pump, the old one was absolutely shot, a good 1mm of wobble on the drive pulley.
New on it, a rather simple job, and all gassed up and blowing ice cold without the grinding
Larini H pipe fitted too but its hardly any different but I have not given it the beans yet.
Checked the rear valve, lubed them up and replaces the Circlips that were missing meaning the actuator arm could have just fallen off, but some how it didn't.
Adjusted the NS sill trim as it was wonkey.
Just a mega detail this weekend and she is good to go!
Some interesting points noted while underneath. This is a wet sump and not dry like the 4200. Also the combined oil and water pump is no longer there. Its been replaced with an Aux belt water pump so you actually have 2 aux belts. 1 for the water pump only and another larger one for all the other gubbins.
Didn't see the oil pump but assume thats inside somewhere.
New on it, a rather simple job, and all gassed up and blowing ice cold without the grinding
Larini H pipe fitted too but its hardly any different but I have not given it the beans yet.
Checked the rear valve, lubed them up and replaces the Circlips that were missing meaning the actuator arm could have just fallen off, but some how it didn't.
Adjusted the NS sill trim as it was wonkey.
Just a mega detail this weekend and she is good to go!
Some interesting points noted while underneath. This is a wet sump and not dry like the 4200. Also the combined oil and water pump is no longer there. Its been replaced with an Aux belt water pump so you actually have 2 aux belts. 1 for the water pump only and another larger one for all the other gubbins.
Didn't see the oil pump but assume thats inside somewhere.
outrun
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Why did you go H over X? Are you finally falling for the charms of Tall Phil? Either way, we can compare them at Le Mans and maybe shoot a little video so that others can decide their route.
StuartW
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Well done Matt, it should soon be up to your high standards & I look forward to seeing it.
I'd like to compare the Larini X on mine to the H in yours too. I can certainly tell the difference between the X and OEM but haven't heard an H on a Stradale yet, although it sounds like you haven't either!
Enjoy your weekend of detailing
conaero
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Well bored, wet Saturday afternoon so I had a small job of attaching the rear arch liner to lower bumper block that turned up. Refitted the sill last week so that's the bodgery the previous person that took it off all put back to stock.
Only took an hour so went looking for other jobs and gave these a wire brushing, rust remedy and stone chip paint:
For those that have a GT will know them well, they are the pipe cover plates from the underside that rot out and fall off.
Only took an hour so went looking for other jobs and gave these a wire brushing, rust remedy and stone chip paint:
For those that have a GT will know them well, they are the pipe cover plates from the underside that rot out and fall off.
conaero
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Consider having a pit put in below too and recessing the scissor lift into the floor.
The pit needs to be about a meter deep only, then you can stand fully and work on the underside of the car without being crippled and you always have the added safety if anything went wrong with the lift, you have somewhere to duck into.
When we move, Ill be doing this.
The pit needs to be about a meter deep only, then you can stand fully and work on the underside of the car without being crippled and you always have the added safety if anything went wrong with the lift, you have somewhere to duck into.
When we move, Ill be doing this.
Moz1000
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When Emblem do it they put down a sheet of plastic on the floor. they also hang some plastic curtains around the car so they can get the waxoil right in without affecting neighbouring cars, and floor. My car looks new-ish underneath due to this. 'New-ish' is an overstatement - but you know what I mean.
As a result I think the underside will last without further work in the long run.
It was only a couple of hundred quid - well worth it in my book considering where I live.
Moz
As a result I think the underside will last without further work in the long run.
It was only a couple of hundred quid - well worth it in my book considering where I live.
Moz
conaero
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Its not mine Moz, Its a guys in the states, I have the scissor lift although mine, both sides are linked together so that will probably get in the way but with the low ceiling height we have in our garages, this is a great way to combat it and get full extension to work on it.
StuartW
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Well done, I never seen them like that - I'm sure they have a coating of rust from the journey to the dealership when new; that's as good as from the factory
CatmanV2
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StuartW
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I would have said so - Matt's is now non OEM, modified if you will - good job it's not still under warranty ...
CatmanV2
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Moz1000
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I watched your video from a while back. I could live with that set-up and then see how I get on.