4200 Radio & Satnav upgrade

Sablewolf

Member
Messages
103
Apparently if I put 7v on the yellow & black wire of the white multi connector it will put the lower dash lights on. The suggested solution is to take a wire from the headlights, reduce it to 7v so that when headlights are on it will illuminate the lower dash. I’ll be trying that as soon as I get a step down transformer (as I’m not great with working out resistor values!). Will update when I’ve tried it!
So far I’ve made up and filled the bezel (which needed a bit of trimming on the inside for new head unit to fit and offered it up into place. It all fits (very tightly!). I started pruning it last night but here’s the bezel and screen in place (but not connected yet) - just trying72828 it for fit
 

Sablewolf

Member
Messages
103
Thanks for the pointers. Also looking at ‘DIY’ options for hydro dipping - but might leave it in primer or plain black until I’ve sorted out all the connections as it’s ‘in and out’ every five minutes at the moment to get everything sorted
 

Sablewolf

Member
Messages
103
If and when you want to send yours away I've a spare 5+2 unit you could borrow. By all accounts Lorenz's work is top notch.
Hi Navcor,
I’ve been chatting with Lorenzo and need a set of buttons to send him - if you would/could lend me your 5+2 buttons that would be brilliant!
I need to find a set of aircon controls to get these done too!
 

Sablewolf

Member
Messages
103
Well, I’ve managed to get the whole system working. I’m going to get the bezel re-done as one piece but have removed the OEM NIT and head unit entirely.
To get the lower dash lights to work I used a DC-DC converter to take 12v (from ACC) down to 7 bolts and on to pin 6 on the head unit plug. To get the hazard lights to work, it’s an on/off switch between pins 1+3 on the same plug.
The 7 inch android touchscreen PC is not very deep (2 1/2 inches or so) so it fits nicely in the head unit space.
The Touchscreen PC is fairly quick to start first time but a bit of a pain to set up all the apps (haven’t quite finished that yet), and haven’t got the DAB box or the OBD link to work yet!
The reversing camera works brilliantly and is very clear (and obviously switches automatically when reverse is selected),
I’ve taken loads of photos and will try to turn into a ‘how to’ guide - but if anyone wants to know more in the meantime just PM me!
 

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safrane

Member
Messages
16,748
Thats really good to see.

I assume the old screen surround is too small to take the revised touch screen?

I would love to see the current Apple Car Play system developed for the GT fitting over the top of the OEM system in the 4200.
 

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,839
Thats really good to see.

I assume the old screen surround is too small to take the revised touch screen?

I would love to see the current Apple Car Play system developed for the GT fitting over the top of the OEM system in the 4200.
A different size touch screen and a method to input video would be needed.
Both easy enough as is the switch needed to control which system was visible.
There wouldn't be much to it - but the screen would be too small to be practicable imo.
Hi Navcor,
I’ve been chatting with Lorenzo and need a set of buttons to send him - if you would/could lend me your 5+2 buttons that would be brilliant!
I need to find a set of aircon controls to get these done too!
No problem - I've a spare aircon control module too. Send me a PM with your details and we'll sort it out.
Nice to see your updated stereo and also nice to read that your notes on illumination have worked.
I noticed on ML that Sanmiam has put this into practice too. Very well played sir!
 
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Sablewolf

Member
Messages
103
Thats really good to see.

I assume the old screen surround is too small to take the revised touch screen?

I would love to see the current Apple Car Play system developed for the GT fitting over the top of the OEM system in the 4200.
The original surround is metal so beyond my capabilities to modify. It’s also too small as it has the hazard switch above the screen and keypad to the side so it was just easier to get a new 3D printed bezel made
 

safrane

Member
Messages
16,748
Ah I see.

Re the GT conversion; I thought it was just a screen overlay rather than a new screen... must read that thread again.
 

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,839
Ah I see.

Re the GT conversion; I thought it was just a screen overlay rather than a new screen... must read that thread again.
No, you're right, it's an overlay. I meant a different size touchscreen to the GT - rather a size similar to the existing 4200 screen.
But you knew that already :smile: Not convinced it's a good idea tbh with a such small viewing area.
 

Sablewolf

Member
Messages
103
This white plug is from the back of the OEM Head unit.
Pins 1+3 (either side of the blue wire) put the hazard lights on when you put them together (with a switch of course). Pin 6 is Yellow & Black and takes 7 volts to power the lower centre dash lights. Pins 4+5 area handy source of 12v (battery/continuous & ACC). I didn’t find a use for pin 2 (blue) though..

The small blue box is the DC-DC converter I found on Amazon - it was £22.99. There are probably cheaper ways to down convert from 12v to 7v but it was easy to order and arrived quickly to enable me to check the ‘theory’ worked. There’s plenty of space to tuck it in the lower part of the centre console.

I also found some great connectors that are heat-shrink with a solder ring - hadn’t come across these before - you just heat them with a heat gun from about an inch (2.5cm) away. They’re quick and easy to use and make a neat job.

I also swapped out the front door speakers for these pioneer units - no modification required - they fit perfectly and the OEM grill pops right back on.

I forgot to take a photo of the reversing camera - it’s mounted just above the rear number plate to the right of the key hole. I drilled one hole in the plastic trim (that houses the number plate lights) between the lock and the number plate light (so nothing to rust and cheaper to fix if I’d messed it up!). Just routed the cable from the boot lid through the rubber conduit on the left side of the boot lid (a bit of silicone grease helped) and eventually through a rubber grommet top left side of the fuel tank between the boot and rear cabin. I had to take the back lower seat cushion out and remove the rear side trim but that was all straight forward. I soldered the power wires directly onto to connectors on the reversing light.
7323373234


7323173232
 

Sablewolf

Member
Messages
103
This white plug is from the back of the OEM Head unit.
Pins 1+3 (either side of the blue wire) put the hazard lights on when you put them together (with a switch of course). Pin 6 is Yellow & Black and takes 7 volts to power the lower centre dash lights. Pins 4+5 area handy source of 12v (battery/continuous & ACC). I didn’t find a use for pin 2 (blue) though..

The small blue box is the DC-DC converter I found on Amazon - it was £22.99. There are probably cheaper ways to down convert from 12v to 7v but it was easy to order and arrived quickly to enable me to check the ‘theory’ worked. There’s plenty of space to tuck it in the lower part of the centre console.

I also found some great connectors that are heat-shrink with a solder ring - hadn’t come across these before - you just heat them with a heat gun from about an inch (2.5cm) away. They’re quick and easy to use and make a neat job.

I also swapped out the front door speakers for these pioneer units - no modification required - they fit perfectly and the OEM grill pops right back on.

I forgot to take a photo of the reversing camera - it’s mounted just above the rear number plate to the right of the key hole. I drilled one hole in the plastic trim (that houses the number plate lights) between the lock and the number plate light (so nothing to rust and cheaper to fix if I’d messed it up!). Just routed the cable from the boot lid through the rubber conduit on the left side of the boot lid (a bit of silicone grease helped) and eventually through a rubber grommet top left side of the fuel tank between the boot and rear cabin. I had to take the back lower seat cushion out and remove the rear side trim but that was all straight forward. I soldered the power wires directly onto to connectors on the reversing light.
View attachment 73233View attachment 73234


View attachment 73231View attachment 73232
Here’s the speakers I used - they were just £29.99 on eBay (brand new) from ‘dynamicsounds00’. I also purchased a remote mic (which is very low profile) from them but haven’t fitted that yet.73236
 

Zep

Moderator
Messages
9,110
Those solder ring connectors are excellent. I was skeptical but they are strong and easy to use. Your work here is fantastic!
 

Sablewolf

Member
Messages
103
All looking very nice
Yes - very happy with the overall set-up. There’s a few niggles I’m sorting out (like my DAB Box doesn’t seem to like the connection from the supposed dual FM/DAB antenna I fitted in place of the OEM antenna) but mist of the rest us as expected. I’m getting the bezel redone by the 3D printer guy as a single piece (not two halves) and trying to improve the finish so I have less prep to do for painting - the bezel is a very tight fit (which is good as it stays in place without any fixings) so I can’t really build up too many layers of primer & paint as the fit tolerances in the dash are very tight.
I posted under a new heading on here the bespoke luggage I collected today - it is mint and looks brilliant in the car - just need to go somewhere on holiday now!!
 

FIFTY

Member
Messages
3,100
Outstanding work and thank you for sharing your project so far.

I am very tempted to do the same thing as you but I would want to retain the NIT and pipe the feed to the new screen.

How much would you budget to do all of this? Minus the speakers i have already installed those along with an amp

Also could you share a link for the solder ring connectors please?