todd.the.submariner
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Having read through every thread on SM and MaseratiLife looking for an answer, alas, a new thread must be born. Hoping that the hive mind can help me round this problem down or help with schematics and specs to support troubleshooting.
Background: minor heater hose leak (about 50ml, tops), but of course it dripped right onto the door lock/unlock ECU on the (US) Driver's side. Powered off the car, disconnected and dried out the connectors, reconnected. Module made an intermittent buzzing sound like a mosquito. Disconnected for a few days to ensure even drier... reconnected, buzz was gone. But so was my ability to lock/unlock the doors using the remote. Alarm would arm, but no door lock at all. No cycling of the locks shut/open. Nothing.
Made the bold assumption it was the door lock/unlock ECU part 184391. Purchased a Ferrari equivalent, installed, no change in symptoms.
Read through all of the forum entries for more ideas. Came across multiple threads about solenoids in the door locks, and using the key in the door vice the remote. ( I know... seems such a primitive act to have to mechanically lock/unlock a door). My symptoms didn't match any of those listed.
Driver's (US, so left) door: does not lock/unlock using the key. Nothing. If I cycle battery power with the disconnect switch, then when attempting to lock the first time with the key, I can hear the tapping of a relay in the door lock/unlock ECU but no resistance to turning the key, and no locking/unlocking. Tried this with the passenger door both locked and unlocked, no difference.
Passenger door. Locks and unlocks using the key with no problem, but does not force the Driver's door to follow, as one would expect.
Removed ECU connector and tested for grounded pins - didn't find any, but did find an oscillating voltage signal that sounded like the same tap-tap-tap interval that was heard in the above mentioned Driver's side step.
Does anyone have insight into the potential problem here? Or, if not, does anyone have pin diagrams and testing specs for each of the components, or know where I might find them? I have the test equipment, but would be "easter egging", in submariner speak, to try to blindly find the fault without some sort of drawing or pinout to follow.
Background: minor heater hose leak (about 50ml, tops), but of course it dripped right onto the door lock/unlock ECU on the (US) Driver's side. Powered off the car, disconnected and dried out the connectors, reconnected. Module made an intermittent buzzing sound like a mosquito. Disconnected for a few days to ensure even drier... reconnected, buzz was gone. But so was my ability to lock/unlock the doors using the remote. Alarm would arm, but no door lock at all. No cycling of the locks shut/open. Nothing.
Made the bold assumption it was the door lock/unlock ECU part 184391. Purchased a Ferrari equivalent, installed, no change in symptoms.
Read through all of the forum entries for more ideas. Came across multiple threads about solenoids in the door locks, and using the key in the door vice the remote. ( I know... seems such a primitive act to have to mechanically lock/unlock a door). My symptoms didn't match any of those listed.
Driver's (US, so left) door: does not lock/unlock using the key. Nothing. If I cycle battery power with the disconnect switch, then when attempting to lock the first time with the key, I can hear the tapping of a relay in the door lock/unlock ECU but no resistance to turning the key, and no locking/unlocking. Tried this with the passenger door both locked and unlocked, no difference.
Passenger door. Locks and unlocks using the key with no problem, but does not force the Driver's door to follow, as one would expect.
Removed ECU connector and tested for grounded pins - didn't find any, but did find an oscillating voltage signal that sounded like the same tap-tap-tap interval that was heard in the above mentioned Driver's side step.
Does anyone have insight into the potential problem here? Or, if not, does anyone have pin diagrams and testing specs for each of the components, or know where I might find them? I have the test equipment, but would be "easter egging", in submariner speak, to try to blindly find the fault without some sort of drawing or pinout to follow.