4200 Buying guide?

Jambondrums

New Member
Messages
15
Hi all. I have long been an admirer of Maseratis and in particular the 3200 and 4200. I see a buying guide for the 3200, I am wondering if there is a specific one for the 4200? Other than the engine, are there many differences between the 2? I am hoping to be in a position to purchase 1 next year. However I'm not on a rush, as I want to take my time and get the right one.
Any advice and help would be gratefully appreciated.
Cheers
James.
 

dickygrace

www.richardgracecars.co.uk
Messages
7,333
Hi all. I have long been an admirer of Maseratis and in particular the 3200 and 4200. I see a buying guide for the 3200, I am wondering if there is a specific one for the 4200? Other than the engine, are there many differences between the 2? I am hoping to be in a position to purchase 1 next year. However I'm not on a rush, as I want to take my time and get the right one.
Any advice and help would be gratefully appreciated.
Cheers
James.
Welcome along James. Other than similar looks, they’re completely different. Very little is shared across the models. Gransport buying guides are likely to correlate pretty closely. A lot buying guides are too detailed and list things that are rarely issues. It’s very, very difficult to find a good 4200 nowadays but try to find an ‘05MY facelift Cambiocorsa, they’re the best examples by far in my opinion.
 

Jambondrums

New Member
Messages
15
Hi Dicky. Thank you for your reply. Where you say that it is difficult to find a good one these days, is that due to age, cars have been scrapped etc.....or that owners tend to keep hold of them? I have a 1996 Alfa Spider and have no intention of ever parting with him, hence why I wondered why it's difficult to find a good 4200...
 

2b1ask1

Special case
Messages
20,258
You can find good ones, sadly though they are super cars that have sometimes been run on hatchback funds. So whilst there are some like me that do their very own servicing and to a very high standard I’m sure, there will have been others that will not have been so lovingly looked after.

I’m sure others will recommend a PPI is completed on any prospective purchase, the essential points are that you get to see under the car with it on its wheels - 4-post lift or pit and check the inner ends of the wishbones for cracks. Also off the wheels for a better look at the wiggly bits. Beyond that just look for good care and detail in the history.
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,710
Hi Dicky. Thank you for your reply.

Welcome to the madness. If you've not been reading here long, Dicky is our resident expert in sales. @2b1ask1 @Zep @conaero and lots of others are technical whizzes that have forgotten more than mere mortals like I will ever know.

They won't steer you wrong. 4200 Classico was my first Maserati, and I loved it, but this was nearly 10 years back and they are going to be getting on.

C
 

Jambondrums

New Member
Messages
15
Ah I see. I'm pretty handy with a set of spanners and do the majority of the maintenance on my cars myself. So not too worried about having a few things to do. Electronics are not something I know much about though. How are they on the 4200s? My 1996 Alfa isn't that sophisticated electronically, but it does have the issue of having 3 pin obd plugs as opposed to the normal 16 pin. This has been a problem in the past when resetting an airbag light for example.....Other than that he's been good as gold really, just general maintenance. What are the parts prices like for the 4200s? Am I correct that alot of parts would've been shared with Alfa, Fiat etc.....making it easier to source and cheaper to buy than having to order a Maserati part, like a premium to pay just to have a part arrive in a Maserati box even though it's no different to a Fiat or Alfa part costing significantly less. Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
 

mjheathcote

Centenary Club
Messages
9,037
You have to buy on condition rather than MY.
A late car, not garaged, exposed to UV, used in winter weather, will never be a better car than an early example, dry stored in winter.
Ignoring the badge they are Italian built and Italian quality.
You only need to look at the QP/GT subframe issue.
If they are exposed to a British winter, unless heavily rust proofed BEFORE exposure, they ROT.
 

2b1ask1

Special case
Messages
20,258
No, you are spot on regarding parts bins. Maseratis are notoriously built from parts bins where they can be. A lot of the 4200 come from the Alfa166, the Cambio pumps are Alfa Selespeed with modifications.

The electrical bits are not too bad but watch out for water ingress, particularly in the boot and passenger footwell where the main fuses are located.

Heater matrix leaks are an increasing problem and often are heralded by failing central locking modules (located directly under the matrix).
 

Jambondrums

New Member
Messages
15
Cheers for the info there chaps. I assume though, that a garage queen that hardly gets used, would actually likely be more problematic than 1 that does get say, weekend use etc.....I've always been under the impression that cars sitting around doing nothing, doesn't really do them alot of good and in particular more thoroughbred cars.
 

2b1ask1

Special case
Messages
20,258
The age is still the age so even a garage queen will suffer the same fate eventually. Whilst you can mitigate some things, it is easy to skip simple things like changing the coolant properly, because it looks fine and it has hardly been used, resulting in increased corrosion internally.

You will find suspension components stiff and noisy on a little used example, door locks will seize up and the buttons will still get sticky.

Regardless of all of the point I have made; start that glorious V8 and you can forgive it everything, drive it and you will realise why!
 

philw696

Member
Messages
25,352
Welcome along James and still today the 4200 is a Great car and having owned two and worked for a Maserati Dealership I reckon one of the Best engines made.
All the knowledge is on here and if you're handy with the spanners nothing really to worry about.
High mileage nothing to worry about with proven service history.
I would have another tomorrow.
Good Luck in your search.
 

FIFTY

Member
Messages
3,100
@Jambondrums The majority of this comes with buying a car that has had lackluster maintenance. Many of these cars are either heavily pampered or just simply not... Should be pretty easy to spot a poor example.

Some of these points are rare problems such as cold start rattles but sometimes people are selling a car with hidden problems or deferred maintenance knowingly or not... So it's better for you to be informed

Weeping/leaking cam covers (smoke/smell off the manifolds)

General oil leaks (look for dots of oil on the ground below the engine and gearbox)

SPORTS button works as it should - illuminates light on dash, stiffens dampers and on CC cars increases shift times/responsiveness of gearbox

Heater matrix (check for dampness in the passenger footwell towards the kick panel, also the windscreen/rearscreen will constantly mist up with a soapy/slippery consensation)

Make sure windows/seats and general interior electrics all work ok

AC should blow ice cold even in warm weather - if not usually just needs a regass but can cause problems if left unattended

Brake discs in good condition (the OE alternatives can be hard to source if you are not involved in the various forums/clubs and the stock discs are very overpriced so occaisionallly people run ruined discs)

Annual service regardless of mileage and no major services skipped - most important is recent history

Cold start rattles from the engine and underneath the car - various causes

Rust, any rust on the body walk away (i.e. wheel arches). Subframe rust is more difficult to see without getting the car on a lift or taking wheel arch liners off.

In the UK the nearside of the car (or LHS) look underneath just along from the side skirt, check the brake lines. They are made from steel which rust incredibly easily and it's a big job to change the rears

While driving check the function of the CC or manual transmission. Slipping under full throttle at high revs and between gears can indicate worn clutch. Jerky-ness when pulling away (or heavy clutch pedal with manual) suggest worn thrust bearing. If you get a loud honking noise from the clutch when pulling away when cold that's the spigot bearing...

Manual and CC have the same hardware in terms of gearbox, CC has a robotised actuator that does the shifting - the car is a transaxle design with a torque tube and gearbox at the rear. The gearbox and diff are in the same housing and share oil so check for drops of oil on the floor at the rear of the car as well

While driving check for clonking noises from the suspension. If from the rear sometimes it won't be the suspension but a worn bearing on the differential which is very difficult to identify but it makes a certain banging sound when driving on rough roads

Check the condition of the alloy wheels, mine had buckles causing vibration at speed and flaking paint - they needed a full restoration.

Check function of boot ancileries Inc cabin light and if the tailgate lock opens with the key as it should

Sticky buttons... I would not be put off as it has happened to 100% of the cars made in this era by Ferrari/Maserati/Lamborghini. I haven't sorted all of the sticky in my car yet as I want to focus on straightening my car out mechanically.
 
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safrane

Member
Messages
16,822
  1. Rust under/around the bottom of the rear lights is a common problem too.
  2. Check for split in the nut holding the main oil pipe onto the oil collection tank
  3. If you are able to lift the car check each rear wheel for movement by gripping it at 2:40 (as on a clock face) and pull and push to see if there is any movement - if so that needs new lower arms as the ball joint is worn.
  4. Flakey paint inside the front lights, or damage to the UV protection film
  5. De-laminating rear windows - needs a replacement and the seals are NLA
  6. Water in the rear spare wheel well
  7. Damage to the PAS cooling pipe
 

nfm

Member
Messages
856
Safrane, to be clear on the rear window issue - is it correct that the delaminating is an aesthetic issue only of the black edging (ie looks untidy) but causes no other issues and only “needs” replaced if an owner decides they want it to look prettier? Mine has been delaminated for years, has no other issues, and I have just chosen to live with it (as I suspect the case with other owners).
 

FIFTY

Member
Messages
3,100
Safrane, to be clear on the rear window issue - is it correct that the delaminating is an aesthetic issue only of the black edging (ie looks untidy) but causes no other issues and only “needs” replaced if an owner decides they want it to look prettier? Mine has been delaminated for years, has no other issues, and I have just chosen to live with it (as I suspect the case with other owners).

Is this where the black plastic trim lifts off the rear sceen as the glue fails over time?


If you use the search function there is a thread where someone successfully stuck it back on using a special adhesive - seems like an easy fix as long as you are light on the glue

Yes it is only an aesethetic issue.
 

safrane

Member
Messages
16,822
As I do not know what causes the separation of the painted section and the non painted, I cant say for sure.
 

Andy Marshall

Member
Messages
297
Jambondrums, are you going Spyder or Coupe? If Coupe then the posts above cover just about all you need to know. If Spyder, then there are a few extra bits to note such as checking roof operation and general condition, aim for a 2003MY onwards (better structural rigidity + glass rear window, does it have the wind stop kit and so on and so forth.
These are quite tough ladies really, so buy on condition. A big clue for me is tyres. Someone running on Nankang Ditchfinders is hardly likely to have lavished care in other areas. Remember it's a (nearly) 400hp Italian Supercar from the 2000s, capable of 170mph+, so make sure its been well cared for
 

Jambondrums

New Member
Messages
15
Thank you for all the advice guys, really appreciate it. I will be going for coupe, as I have my Alfa Spider for top down fun. Having said that, it would be great to hear the V8 more, but I also want to have the back seats, so the Coupe it is. It sounds like the ball joints and wishbones etc.....are similar to Alfa ones from the same period, in that they sounded they are made from chocolate. Is it worth trying to find a manual, or is the CC pretty good once you get used to it's foibles? I've heard that lifting off the throttle when changing up radically smooths the changes. This was the same on my old Insignia VXR auto, sometiing I found out by trial and error. I'm personally going to be using it as a weekend car, so not too worried if there are some minor things to do, but I do want to get something that is pretty good from the off.
Thanks once again for all your help.
 

2b1ask1

Special case
Messages
20,258
Never driven the manual version, I have no issues with the F1 and accept it is of its generation. It may not be the slickest by modern examples.

just remember to pull away positively every time, DON’T lift between changes or you will cause issues, they don’t bang on the gears and if they do it has issues. Bear in mind it is not a dual clutch so not silky smooth either. Invest in matched tyres on each axle and a good geo setup.