4200 Gearbox Oil Change - What Oil?

safrane

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16,746
There was an improved design as the old one was a pig to remove.

Emblem repaced mine on purchase ro save this issue happening with mine.
 

tulit

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110
Yeah they moved the o ring closer to flange so much easier to remove. Unfortunately the same part number so not easy to order the right one if someone has old stock.




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Matt82

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222
Yeah they moved the o ring closer to flange so much easier to remove. Unfortunately the same part number so not easy to order the right one if someone has old stock.




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New vs old style

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rs48635

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3,181
Crawling over wet cobbles at 4 degrees C to get under my car has less appeal than first years of ownership. Have decided to be sensible for once, so handed over to my local garage AutoLusso. They are Alfa Romeo specialist but have worked on my car before. Still felt more at ease leaving my printed copy of "how to guide" from Italian Auto Tech. Thanks chap!
Once I get my 2 post lift installed these jobs will be back on the menu.
 

rs48635

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3,181
SO what is the correct oil? Want to check in my handbook, but it is with the car shut in the repair shop.

Garage will not continue until they get oil mentioned in guide above Redline 75W90NS - they also mentioned "opie oils" so that is reassuring.
 

Zep

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9,110
For a 4200 it is Agip Rotra LSX. For a GTS its Shell Transaxle 75W90.

Both a gearbox oils suitable for transaxles (I.e. friendly to diff plates), 75w90 to GL4+ spec.
 

TimR

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2,654
Crawling over wet cobbles at 4 degrees C to get under my car has less appeal than first years of ownership.
Have to agree with you...
Ive done some bloody stupid things up trees with a chainsaw and in the forest - the idea of working under a car on axle stands, with an obstinate filter two inches from my face, holds nil appeal for me too....:0036:
 

TimR

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2,654
Motul 300LS-
Yep, that's what I've just put in mine
You're saying you know it doesnt use phospherous additives to reach GL5 rating..?
And that's before you even get into the friction modifiers used to make it LS rated....
Not finding much info from Motul or the internet ATM which states it is yellow metal safe so far....?

edit- infact-Im now certain it contains sulphide( anion sulphur )Ill be going with the Agip !
 
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rs48635

Member
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3,181
For a 4200 it is Agip Rotra LSX. For a GTS its Shell Transaxle 75W90.

Both a gearbox oils suitable for transaxles (I.e. friendly to diff plates), 75w90 to GL4+ spec.
Zep. Seems my 2006 QP is more 4200 than GTS.

The manual SAE 75W/90 API GL4GL5C APIUMT1-PG2 Specifications. We Recommend ROTRA LSX
 
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TimR

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same as me. I do find the diff now seems more keen to lock up than previous. Would this have anything to do with it?

It shouldnt be as , it uses friction modifiers (which is denoted by LS - LSD compatible) but the symptoms sound typical of them not doing their work !
 

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TimR

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2,654
Personally, and from my experience with motorcycle engine oils and wet cluch packs; when I change engine oil, I go to lengths to ensure I use the same oil as was used/ in the engine in the first place. This avoids unnecessary issues of incompatibility....
At least, thats my strategy, having been caught out on numerous occasions....
 

jasst

Member
Messages
2,313
Motul 300LS-

You're saying you know it doesnt use phospherous additives to reach GL5 rating..?
And that's before you even get into the friction modifiers used to make it LS rated....
Not finding much info from Motul or the internet ATM which states it is yellow metal safe so far....?

edit- infact-Im now certain it contains sulphide( anion sulphur )Ill be going with the Agip !
I did extensive research on here and that came out as recommended :24186z4:
 

jasst

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2,313
Personally, and from my experience with motorcycle engine oils and wet cluch packs; when I change engine oil, I go to lengths to ensure I use the same oil as was used/ in the engine in the first place. This avoids unnecessary issues of incompatibility....
At least, thats my strategy, having been caught out on numerous occasions....
Thats your choice to make ;)
 

rs48635

Member
Messages
3,181
Personally, and from my experience with motorcycle engine oils and wet cluch packs; when I change engine oil, I go to lengths to ensure I use the same oil as was used/ in the engine in the first place. This avoids unnecessary issues of incompatibility....
At least, thats my strategy, having been caught out on numerous occasions....
Agree wholeheartedly . Prior experience with 3200 engine emasculates only ever used Selena racing as originally installed. Almost certain that more modern equivalents are equally good, but why be the experiment?
 
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