AAAARGH- No crank

BRIDGEMILL

Junior Member
Messages
43
My 2013 MC coupe was running fine- just working on the electronic park brake- The battery that was in the car was a non original one and too small, so I bought a new one of the correct size and spec. Put it in and the car started and ran fine. Shut it off and next time I tried to start it, it wouldn't crank the motor. battery voltage is perfect- checked all the fuses etc. But it just won't crank. Is this some sort of security issue after changing batteries?
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
34,593
It may be that the battery while stored has discharged where it’s been sat. Check as above and put it in charge.

It’s not unusual for a battery to be DOA.

What make is the new battery,
 

BRIDGEMILL

Junior Member
Messages
43
To all-
Yes connections are tight- has full 12.6 volts across the posts and from the positive terminal to the ground cable. Also has full 12.6 across all the fuses on the battery module. I have power with ignition on- AC fan , power windows etc. just no crank. It is an auto parts store battery, but the exact spec as listed by Maserati, just without the extra 250.00 Maserati sticker.
 

BRIDGEMILL

Junior Member
Messages
43
Yes- Shifter in neutral- even wiggled it around a bit while trying to crank it thinking the interlock switch might be faulty, ran it through the Park, Neutral Reverse Drive settings a few times Pressed brake pedal, used the key fob to lock and unlock the doors a few times etc. Strangely there is no starter relay listed in any of the fuse boxes. However the under hood fuse box has 2 ignition relays- one is called IGNITION and the other is IGNITION ENABLE , I'm assuming one latches with key on to enable the coils and injectors and the other latches in the crank position to engage the starter.
 

BRIDGEMILL

Junior Member
Messages
43
Yeah, check the negative terminal carefully

C
Do you know where the negative cable attaches to the chassis? I read on another post that a guy bought a new Maser and it had the same problem and it turned out to be a loose chassis ground right from the factory.
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,547
Do you know where the negative cable attaches to the chassis? I read on another post that a guy bought a new Maser and it had the same problem and it turned out to be a loose chassis ground right from the factory.

No idea where it is, sorry

Yes, lights stay on bright- no draw down like a bad starter- is there a light that says CODE?

Car with a padlock. Could be the ignition switch as well but I think you might need to call in the pros

C
 

BRIDGEMILL

Junior Member
Messages
43
No idea where it is, sorry



Car with a padlock. Could be the ignition switch as well but I think you might need to call in the pros

C
Thanks- no car with padlock symbol- key fob works the doors just fine, so battery must be good. Is the ignition switch a common problem on these cars?
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,547
Thanks- no car with padlock symbol- key fob works the doors just fine, so battery must be good. Is the ignition switch a common problem on these cars?

Not common, but not unheard of.

The immobiliser is a totally different system from the battery operated central locking / alarm arming just for future reference. There's a passive RFID chip in the key which is interrogated when you start it. If the number on the chip matches the numbers stored in the ECU, off you go. If it's not, nothing will happen but the light will stay on. Remember this when you change your battery ;)

C
 

BRIDGEMILL

Junior Member
Messages
43
Not common, but not unheard of.

The immobiliser is a totally different system from the battery operated central locking / alarm arming just for future reference. There's a passive RFID chip in the key which is interrogated when you start it. If the number on the chip matches the numbers stored in the ECU, off you go. If it's not, nothing will happen but the light will stay on. Remember this when you change your battery ;)

C
I'm thinking it is the immobiliser also, but really don't understand why it would lose the code when changing the battery. In fact, when I first got the car I removed the original battery to clean up a bunch of stuff that had collected down in that hole. After I put it back in it started and ran just fine, only later did I decide to replace the battery with one which matched the factory specs and developed this issue.
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,547
I'm thinking it is the immobiliser also, but really don't understand why it would lose the code when changing the battery. In fact, when I first got the car I removed the original battery to clean up a bunch of stuff that had collected down in that hole. After I put it back in it started and ran just fine, only later did I decide to replace the battery with one which matched the factory specs and developed this issue.

It won't. Far more likely that it's either
a) The car battery, although this seems unlikely but per Matt's comments, not impossible
b) The ignition switch
c) The antenna around the ignition barrell.

Just looking through the manual you've checked relay T19 and T20 (Ignition and ignition enable)? Not completely clear what they do but...Also F30 and F84?

PS The key fob battery has nothing at all to do with starting the car. All it does is unlock / lock the doors and arm / disarm the alarm (unless they fitted keyless start on post 2013 cars)

C