Can anyone measure distance between lifting points please?

Sam McGoo

Sam McGoo

Member
Messages
1,773
Hey peeps,

I'm about to pull the plug on a quicklift/quickjack.

Has anyone got their GT in air at the moment?

I measured my GT lifting points some time ago and wrote down 1650mm front to back, but can't quite remember if that was to the hole centres or the outside edges to allow for lifting blocks.
Is anyone in a position to be able to check that for me at all? As I am away from the car for a couple of weeks and would like to get this ordered asap.

The Kwiklift KL2500HE states 1659 max and the QJ 5000TLX states 1676max so I want to be sure. Although the 17mm difference between the two (8.5mm each end) is minimal, so can't see it being make or break.

Thanks in advance.
 
Sam McGoo

Sam McGoo

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Messages
1,773
alastairb said:
I researched these when buying mine, guys on the American forum uses BL-5000SLX.
Click to expand...
The SLX is too short for the recommended lifting points on the GT unless you add the EXT frame accessory, but then I think it becomes tight for clearance underneath. You can put the SLX on the seal points, but not ideal.

The old EXT version has now become the TLX which I'm sure is long enough for the GT lifting points.
I really want to know if the Kwiklift KL2500HE at 1659mm is also long enough.
 
Gazcw

Gazcw

Member
Messages
7,785
Sam McGoo said:
Hey peeps,

I'm about to pull the plug on a quicklift/quickjack.

Has anyone got their GT in air at the moment?

I measured my GT lifting points some time ago and wrote down 1650mm front to back, but can't quite remember if that was to the hole centres or the outside edges to allow for lifting blocks.
Is anyone in a position to be able to check that for me at all? As I am away from the car for a couple of weeks and would like to get this ordered asap.

The Kwiklift KL2500HE states 1659 max and the QJ 5000TLX states 1676max so I want to be sure. Although the 17mm difference between the two (8.5mm each end) is minimal, so can't see it being make or break.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
They do a cross brace too for alternative lifting points. I guess it ties the two together also.
 
strictly

strictly

Junior Member
Messages
56
I can measure tomorrow evening, as I have the front of my GT up in the air. To be crystal clear what are we defining as the lifting points?....the "holes" near front and rear of the sill? I have "circled" a front "hole" in red in the picture below. I'm thinking this is the factory lifting point? See also my comment at the end on the green one

The only reason I ask, is there is a "rubber bit" at the end of the subframe which I have circled in blue. I saw in another thread, a GT lifted there. I dont want to get off topic, but as a quick answer - can they be lifted there with a trolley jack? This them makes it easier to place a jack stand under the actual factory lifting point.

I will measure what you actually need to know tomorrow.

EDIT - I circled the one in green by accident. I mean the red one with the cut out in the sill. What is the green one for?
 

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Sam McGoo

Sam McGoo

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Messages
1,773
strictly said:
I can measure tomorrow evening, as I have the front of my GT up in the air. To be crystal clear what are we defining as the lifting points?....the "holes" near front and rear of the sill? I have "circled" a front "hole" in red in the picture below. I'm thinking this is the factory lifting point? See also my comment at the end on the green one

The only reason I ask, is there is a "rubber bit" at the end of the subframe which I have circled in blue. I saw in another thread, a GT lifted there. I dont want to get off topic, but as a quick answer - can they be lifted there with a trolley jack? This them makes it easier to place a jack stand under the actual factory lifting point.

I will measure what you actually need to know tomorrow.

EDIT - I circled the one in green by accident. I mean the red one with the cut out in the sill. What is the green one for?
Click to expand...

The recommended lifting points are the holes you circled green. There is one front, one rear on both sides about a foot fwd and rear of wheels.
The ones you've circled red, are the roadside scissor jack lift points for changing a wheel at the roadside etc. I assume they can be used if needed, but may be less stable I suppose, and a bit more awkward to get on due to their size and proximity to the side skirt.
I tend to use the trolley jack on the recommended 'holes' with a shaped hockey puk that fits in them. Then put axle stands on the scissor jack points, as the end effector on the ones I have, sits nicely on them.

I have no idea about the thing you've circled blue, as I've not looked close enough, but in that pic looks more like an bolt access cover or something? So wouldn't wanna lift there if it is.
 
strictly

strictly

Junior Member
Messages
56
Approximately 158cm from the green circle centre to corresponding back hole......it is just Approximate. I need two people and the car on the floor to get a more accurate measurement.

Good to know from the above reply.
 
strictly

strictly

Junior Member
Messages
56
I have since found this in the factory manual which shows the green hole on use
 

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strictly

strictly

Junior Member
Messages
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What had me worried about it was the attached! Thanks for the help an good luck with your endeavour. Hopefully 158 cm ISH....works for you
 

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Sam McGoo

Sam McGoo

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strictly said:
Approximately 158cm from the green circle centre to corresponding back hole......it is just Approximate. I need two people and the car on the floor to get a more accurate measurement.

Good to know from the above reply.
Click to expand...

Lovely, thanks.
So the 165 I wrote down must have been to allow for lift blocks.

I have ordered the Kwik-lift KL3200 as the 2500HE is out of stock. The dimensions are the same just more heavy duty.

I'll come back in a week or so to confirm how well it fits, just to wrap up the thread.
 
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