Front Speakers Not Working

[Oneball]

I thought I'd start a separate thread from my other electrical woes.

As a byproduct of trying to sort the crackling speakers I realised there is no sound coming from any of the 4 front speakers. This happens with both the original Becker and new head unit.

On bypassing the amp by using jumpers at the amp connector the front speakers still don't work so I think we can rule out the amp.

If I connect the front output from the head unit to the rear speakers there is sound

If I connect the rear output from the head unit to the front speakers there is no sound.

So head unit is ok, wiring as far as the amp connector is ok.

Checking the continuity of the front speakers at the amp connector there is about 5 ohms, if I disconnect the connector at the door hinge there is no continuity.

Any ideas what is going on? Is it possible for all four front speakers themselves to have failed, seems unlikely to me? How can I confirm they are faulty?

Thanks in advance

Tim

 

[CatmanV2]

Check them directly with your ohmeter?

C

 

[Oneball]

Thanks C

I've measured directly:

Main speaker is 3 ohms

Tweeter is 6 ohms across the coil and infinite across the terminals as it has a capacitor in series.

I think that's what they should be

With the speakers disconnected there is no continuity at the amp connector, with the speaker connectors bridged the resistance at the amp connector is 0 ohms.

I've got the speaker out of the car an connected it my hi-fi and it works.

I'm at a complete loss.

What have I missed??

 

[Oneball]

By accident whilst bypassing the amp I've discovered that if one of the front left speaker wires (red/black) is not connected the speaker works.

I'm guessing that means one of the left side speakers is shorting to earth??????

I think a2ruedas suggested that to start with

 

[CatmanV2]

That would be my guess (now)

Do all the speakers work if that speaker is out of circuit?

C

 

[Oneball]

Don’t know as yet, haven’t reattached the driver’s side ones and I’ve found wine

 

[CatmanV2]

Don’t know as yet, haven’t reattached the driver’s side ones and I’ve found wine

Bloody good excuse!

C

 

[Oneball]

Everything is working now but I’m not sure it’s correct.

The front speakers weren’t working because both were being grounded by their attachment screws touching the metal frame/basket/whatever it’s called but if the speaker.

Does anyone know if the metal speaker frame is supposed to be live or has something broken down??

 

[CatmanV2]

Live and ground don't really apply to speakers. If they are shorting, or one of them is shorting, it can make the whole lot stop.

Sounds like one of yours is busted somehow. You sure it's the screws, and not the screws forcing the cables into contact with the doors when screwed down. I had this on the 4200

C

 

[Oneball]

Yes it's definitely 100% the screws touching the metal frame that is causing the issue in both cases. A check with an ohm meter confirms there is continuity between the metal frame of the speaker and the -ve +ve speaker terminals

The current passing through the coils is getting earthed by the metal speaker frame to the door via the screw. The current takes the easy option and goes straight back to the battery without passing through the coils hence no sound. I wouldn't have thought the coils would be electrical connected in anyway to the frame, if that is the case then somehow the insulation on the coils in both front speakers must have broken down.

If I can confirm that the metal frame should be isolated from the coils then I will know that both speakers need changing. For the moment its working as I've ensured there's no metal to metal between speaker and door.

 

[CatmanV2]

The coil should not be connected to the frame. If you look at the connections at the back you can see the lead wires. If it is shorting the coil must be scraping agains the magnet. Bin them

C

 

[Moz1000]

Are the speakers oem or aftermarket? If the latter, they may be larger (or smaller I suppose) than the aperture in the door and shorting.
Moz

 

[Oneball]

Are the speakers oem or aftermarket? If the latter, they may be larger (or smaller I suppose) than the aperture in the door and shorting.
Moz

They're OEM

 

[Oneball]

The coil should not be connected to the frame. If you look at the connections at the back you can see the lead wires. If it is shorting the coil must be scraping agains the magnet. Bin them

C

Thanks C

Next question is what do I replace them with and how do I find something that is compatible?

Just need to replicate what's there, don't need something from a Max Power Dimma 205. I've no idea about this stuff, the last time I changed a radio was in my BMW e34 and that was because I thought a black one would look better!

 

[CatmanV2]

Did this before and I think there's others but damned if I can recall what with. They need to be quite shallow.

Nip down to your local halfrauds or car audio place. Surely they'll find a match

C

 

[Zep]

Assuming they are the same as 4200 / GS, I have a full set of Alpine speakers I never got round to fitting.

 

[Moz1000]

I have a pair of oem 3200 front speakers spare. PM me if interested. However, a pair of Alpines may sound better, but may be troublesome to fit.
Moz

 

[Oneball]

Thanks for the offers. I bought a couple of replacements on the way to see my folks, £23 for two.

We’ll see......

 

[Spartacus]

At that price they will probably be pants ( worse than the OEM ones ) keep the receipt .

Iv just replaced my speakers in my GS. Alpine are ok but not the best , I recommend some of these . They are not top of the range but Focals are quality )

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Focal-16...m=371006436023&_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226

 

[Oneball]

Thanks. What did you go with?

I was really struggling. I got oem ASK ones. I tried a few aftermarket ones and although they were ok depth wise the cone shaped bit of the frame was wider and wouldn’t fit in the hole so just went with originals.