GranSport/4200 Front/Rear Upgraded Sway Bar Bushings

[CraigWaterman11]

Okay guys, well I've been tinkering on the GS because my clutch parts still aren't here. I don't know what I was thinking not having it here. I ordered from Eurospares, I thought in time but a week later, the car is still on the lift. So instead I decided to start research on upgrading the sway bar bushings. After tons of research, and the unnatural size of the sway bar bushings I contacted a well known U.S. supplier who I order other parts from here. Anyway, I have the gear box dropped, and I figured I could loosen the sub-frame up enough to drop down and get the rear sway bar bushings replaced. So what do a 28,000 mile set of sway bar bushings look like?

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Big one is the front, little the rear.

If you think they look more worn than you thought, I would have to agree. Honestly I'm a bit disappointed with the size and quality. Let's do a side by side comparison to a set I'm installing in the front, and I've got the rears installed already.

The top picture is side by side fronts, the bottom pic, side by side rear.

I'm pretty certain I'm going to notice the difference right away when it corners. You guys know I'm always trying to find a better quality part for our cars. Well here's the latest......upgraded sway bar bushings. What do you guys think? It's in the preliminary stages but after a bit more R&D and dialing these in I think these will be an inexpensive alternative to Maserati's part I'm going to offer. Eurospares sells these for $21.14 USD without the mounting bracket for the front, and $8.24 usd for the rear.

I have to say, after removing the rear sway bar bushings I definitely know why they only charge $8.24 a piece for each one. I think I've seen bigger sway bar bushings in the rear of a Honda. Yes sorry they are that bad. Anyway, the point of the cost, is because with any upgraded part you weigh the OEM part against the Aftermarket to see if it's worth the hassle in performance. Well, I think if I bulk buy them, I can rival the OEM costs, and they come with upgraded brackets to hold them in. If you look at the picture above, you can see they put a support ridge beside each of the screw holes to stiffen the design.

Anyway, figured I would let you guys in on what I was working on while waiting for this clutch.

 

[philw696]

Good work Craig.
They look super in a nice shade of blue that would look great on my car.
Im in for a set if your happy to post to NZ ?
Phil.

 

[safrane]

Thanks again...a little sad to see such poor quality components on such an expensive car, but nice to see quality after market parts are becoming availabe.

 

[Wack61]

Can't say I'm surprised the eurospares parts are taking an age to arrive , its taken since the 27th for them to post a small box and I still haven't got it

 

[2b1ask1]

Thanks for keeping us informed Craig, I have tried changing my rear bushes and have achieved only one side, the other does indeed need the sub frame dropping to access the bolts.

I am concerned though that a bigger bush and housing on the rear might foul the body, haves you tightened the sub frame back into place yet? I would absolutely upgrade when I do the clutch if I can so put me down for a set.

 

[D Walker]

Doh- I could do with them now------- lol!!!!!

 

[Evo Cymru]

Great work again Craig - Put me down for a set!

 

[mjheathcote]

Here are the replacement mountings and poly bushings supplied by Formula Dynamics with their anti sway bar kit.
I'm not absolutely sure, but thought that Formula Dynamics can supply replacement poly bushings for the standard sized bars already?
Did you ever do the deal with FD for marketing your tie rod kit?

 

[adam01]

Craig,

Also interested in a set for front/rear (as per my post on ML)

txs

 

[CraigWaterman11]

Sorry guys, lol, went to sleep right after posting.......let me see if I can get down through the questions.

1.)Yes I did tighten them down, they did fit, and didn't hit the upper body, maybe I should just drop the sub-frame and take some good photos of them sitting in there, really don't have a clutch so......That and my buddy who owns the shop is getting rich off of me being there. I'm rebuilding an air-cooled VW engine, ended up painting a hood for him, and everything else he can throw at me. He loves me being around especially with my car up on the lift.

There is a lip on the outside edge towards the linear lock that does need to be trimmed on the bushing. I think it's just how they manufactured them. Not an issue. I actually didn't drop the sub-frame but I will tell you it would have been tons easier if I had so.

2.) Yes I did do the deal with FD and they sell the bushings with their sway bar kit but not one for OEM sway bars. Ironically, I don't know if you'd need their kit if you actually just had a bushing there that would do their job. The ones in the front would be the easiest for an DIYer to replace and test. I'm pretty confident about my assessment of them. Additionally, I would not use a full Poly bush on anything I didn't have complete access to in order to grease every 3-6 months. They make a great deal of noise if they aren't constantly lubed.

 

[CraigWaterman11]

How soon do you need them? I could possibly get a set out to you quickly if I have a time frame. I need to rush order the set, but if I had to guess with the mileage on your car you need to replace them anyway.

 

[CraigWaterman11]

Gotcha Adam not an issue. I read the ML post, the subframe really isn't that hard to drop down, however, you will need to completely bleed your brakes when you do it. Now, I haven't tried to do it because I already have the Torque tube out, but if you loosened the sub frame bolts on each side of the rear of the car 3 on each side. Loosened the shock towers above. Then slightly jacked the rear of the car (I'm assuming at home) it might actually be possible to lower the sub-frame enough without taking the tube or brake lines completely off. You don't really need that much clearance to reach them only a few inches. I'm not positive it can be done this way, but I think it can be. The fronts are really simple.

 

[D Walker]

How soon do you need them? I could possibly get a set out to you quickly if I have a time frame. I need to rush order the set, but if I had to guess with the mileage on your car you need to replace them anyway.

I would guess at a week but if I speak to Marios cant see it being a problem. Could post direct to Autoshield!!!

 

[mjheathcote]

Gotcha Adam not an issue. I read the ML post, the subframe really isn't that hard to drop down, however, you will need to completely bleed your brakes when you do it. Now, I haven't tried to do it because I already have the Torque tube out, but if you loosened the sub frame bolts on each side of the rear of the car 3 on each side. Loosened the shock towers above. Then slightly jacked the rear of the car (I'm assuming at home) it might actually be possible to lower the sub-frame enough without taking the tube or brake lines completely off. You don't really need that much clearance to reach them only a few inches. I'm not positive it can be done this way, but I think it can be. The fronts are really simple.

Going through the FD instructions for lowering the subframe to replace the rear sway bar and new mountings provided by FD, it is a case of unclipping pipes to give sufficient movement and no requirement for disconnections, so no brake bleeding required.
Regarding squeaks with poly bushes, I've read on MaseratiLife that wrapping the bars with teflon (PTFE) tape is a good idea under the bushes?

 

[2b1ask1]

Gotcha Adam not an issue. I read the ML post, the subframe really isn't that hard to drop down, however, you will need to completely bleed your brakes when you do it. Now, I haven't tried to do it because I already have the Torque tube out, but if you loosened the sub frame bolts on each side of the rear of the car 3 on each side. Loosened the shock towers above. Then slightly jacked the rear of the car (I'm assuming at home) it might actually be possible to lower the sub-frame enough without taking the tube or brake lines completely off. You don't really need that much clearance to reach them only a few inches. I'm not positive it can be done this way, but I think it can be. The fronts are really simple.

My guess is yes you could indeed, even an inch of extra room would make it possible to change them both on the back, without it is impossible on one side and near impossible on the other!

 

[CraigWaterman11]

Yes I could see you just loosening the clips, it should give you enough to do what you needed to. I'm probably going to just drop the sub-frame because I have FD stainless lines I could put on at the same time anyway.

I think my only concern with PTFE is how long will it last? I don't know if they could of fit a 90 degree zerk fitting on top. But my guess is that once the tape wears away it's going to present the same concerns. Normally it wouldn't be an issue, like for the front. If they put a 90 degree grease fitting on it, it would be nothing more than lieing on the ground and giving it a squirt or two to keep it lubed. The rear is where I hear the most noise even from the OEM type. That's the biggest concern for me with the Poly bushes. I went with a high grade rubber with good wear characteristics.

 

[CraigWaterman11]

I have a set on order to me. I think Express shipping to you might be expensive though. I should get them this Tuesday/Wednesday. I will see what we can do for shipping as soon as I get them. I think it will be more for shipping than the parts. Get me Autoshield's address if you can.

 

[D Walker]

I have a set on order to me. I think Express shipping to you might be expensive though. I should get them this Tuesday/Wednesday. I will see what we can do for shipping as soon as I get them. I think it will be more for shipping than the parts. Get me Autoshield's address if you can.

http://www.autoshieldmaserati.co.uk/contact-us/
Craig, if it's too much hassle don't worry!
Dave

 

[CraigWaterman11]

Hi guys just wanted to post these pics for the sway bar bushings after putting them in. I know we were speaking about clearance. This is with the sub frame bolted back in.

 

[adam01]

craig,

Assume in the above pics. the vehicle was up on hoist with no weight on the four corners.. correct?

If so any clearance issues when full weight on