Help appreciated - code 1211 abs/msr

nfm

Member
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856
Tks Phil, I will track down someone local who can help me do that as it looks like I need to confirm status of all four wheels in the 1st instance.
 

philw696

Member
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25,113
Tks Phil, I will track down someone local who can help me do that as it looks like I need to confirm status of all four wheels in the 1st instance.
That's exactly it and then you will find the duff one easily.
 

nfm

Member
Messages
856
Ok, by way of an update, had the four wheels checked out when in for annual service and looks like one of the rear wheels is the culprit. On this basis will proceed and fit a replacement bearing (197064). Any suggestions for a good source for a 2nd hand part welcomed. eBay has a few from Germany but would prefer known, recommended, local supplier if possible. Thanks
 

dickygrace

www.richardgracecars.co.uk
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7,309
Ok, by way of an update, had the four wheels checked out when in for annual service and looks like one of the rear wheels is the culprit. On this basis will proceed and fit a replacement bearing (197064). Any suggestions for a good source for a 2nd hand part welcomed. eBay has a few from Germany but would prefer known, recommended, local supplier if possible. Thanks
Scuderia car parts are the best place. Don’t buy a used one
 

nfm

Member
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856
Tks, various members have mentioned using used in the past - £250 v £500; a chat with my mechanic since I posted makes me inclined to new due to danger of a failed used part causing confusion on the diagnosis.
 
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nfm

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856
Ps Dicky, agree re Scuderia, they were about £30 less for all the service gubbins v a common competitor.
 

TimR

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2,654
Agree with others that going for used makes no sense...the labour involved in replacing a rear should put you off I reckon....
So you had the sensors tested individually to find the weakest link..?
Interesting that it was the rear.

Mine has stopped throwing the ABS/MSP dash light, for now.
I am interested to know if the ECU records relatable data with respect which wheel sensor is responsible. Can SD2/3 recall these as 'historic codes" despite their being cleared by ignition cycling..?
 

nfm

Member
Messages
856
In my case he could just confirm which wheel it was but not code history on his reader. That his testing showed one wheel was a wrongun is enough to move on and change that wheel bearing.
 

hladun

Member
Messages
149
Don't have Maserati codes, but for the F430 C1211 is
Error detected when the speed signal
from the rear right toothed wheel sensor
is unstable or not constant. If the signal
is intermittent, the ECU switches the
fault lamp on when a speed of over
12km/h is reached. The sensor is faulty
or is not correctly
 

nfm

Member
Messages
856
Interesting (and useful Tks) as this different to codes per photo:
 

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nfm

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856
I appreciate your sentiments Scaf but the generously proportioned lady is merely approaching the stage, I will relax when she has sung. (Part in /light out). Cheers
 

nfm

Member
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856
Large lady has concluded her song and left the stage. New o/s rear wheel bearing did the trick. Nice to have a blank dash and full revs again.

The lesson learned for me here is that not all codes are the same. The 1211 thrown by the non Maser (but good) code reader alluded to abs connections, whereas as stated above on a Ferrari reader (Maser too?) 1211 is rear o/s wheel.

Thanks to all those above that helped.

cheers
 

philgarner

Member
Messages
226
Since this is one of the best 'rear wheel bearing' threads, I thought I would update with my experience. I had exactly this code and these symptoms, and use my X431 Launch to determine it was the right rear bearing. I bought a new one from Superformance for the usual huge cost.

WARNING - this is a lot of work for DIY, and grim if you don't have a lift. I wish I'd paid someone, but I've done it now.

You have to take apart basically the whole suspension on the side you are working on to get the axle out (almost impossible in situ). To do this, as others have said you have to drop the subframe down (loosen all 6 bolts, 10mm and 12mm hex) maybe 10-20mm to remove one of the bolts on the upper arm as it fouls on the body - ridiculous design but there we are.

If your car has been left outside/used in winter the bearing will be an absolute ******* to get off the shaft. I borrowed a very fancy hydraulic puller for this and even that took multiple attempts, trying other methods, heating it up etc, until it eventually gave in. Be careful hitting things (especially things with threads on the end) directly with a lump hammer.

I'm not sure what the book time is for a garage to do this would be (but even then they could spend a day getting a rusty hub off) but I think it must've taken me 20+ hours.
 
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philw696

Member
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25,113
Customers wouldn't believe the grief us professionals go through on some jobs.
Just spent many hours refreshing the front suspension on my Porsche which gave me a headache for two days.
Well Done on completing it though Phil.