HELP - Key stuck in ignition barrel, boot won't open... bad battery connection suspected

Oneball

Member
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7,257
Until you get a fully charged battery in there it’s going to be a bit difficult to know whether it’s lack of power or something else.

You could try opening and closing all doors and the bonnet and doing the Conaero reset now you’ve got some charge, it may not actually be the boot that it sensing an issue with.
 

Zep

Moderator
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6,604
The parking brake failure message is normal after a flat battery. It doesn’t know the position of the motor. Once you have your new battery (the old one is clearly goosed) it will sort itself out after a couple of starts. Which is probably going to be the same for your other issues.
 

Phil H

Member
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3,079
As the guys say above, don't be too trusting of a 'new' battery. Even if it gives 12v it may not deliver enough current to get everything working again and QP's can be very demanding of electrons.

If the boot still fails to soft close with a known good battery try slamming it shut, then cycle the door locks with the fob a few of times to see if it re-syncs. I've also had the Parking Brake Failure indication, and resolved it by using the console switch to repeatedly activate/deactivate it whilst very gently trying to drive back and forth to see if it's actually released (but do not try to drive away until you're certain that it's fully released). It will also help to switch the ignition fully on (engine running) and off a few times.

I'm sure it will eventually work as advertised, it's just a bit of a faff getting there, and then you'll know the routine for next time like what I did ;)
 
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makeshiftUK

Member
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816
Thanks for all the suggestions and advice. I'm holding fire on next steps until the new battery arrives... with that installed I'll have another stab at ironing out the electrical gremlins, and getting her back on the road again.

For now, outdoor pyjamas are on, and I patiently await a consignment from Tayna Batteries via Yodel.
 

makeshiftUK

Member
Messages
816
My QP has been enjoying its new pyjamas, with the added benefit of keeping the water out of the boot whilst it doesn't close properly... finally using it, @Silvercat! New battery arrived yesterday, and has been on charge over night... charging much better than the current one.

8771787718

As a relative plebite having never changed a QP battery before, I found this Youtube video of a chap changing his battery on a GT useful as a point of reference.

Old battery... note:
  • Yellow arrow, 10mm spanner or 10mm long nose socket required to loosen the nut hidden at the back
  • Blue arrows, two screws helping keep the black plastic electrical case securely in place
  • Orange arrow, easy release clamp to release the clasp from the negative terminal
87719

Battery removed:

87721

The access is a b****, so I used a cable tie to hold back the electrical gubbins whilst sliding the new battery into place.

87722

Planning to follow these Voicey-approved steps next:

  1. Connect the battery and then go and do something else for 20 mins. This allows the heater mix valve to calibrate.
  2. Switch the ignition on (engine off) and wait for the throttle body to calibrate (you can hear it clicking) and for the heater flaps to stop moving (depends on the model). 1-2 mins is enough for this step.
  3. Start the engine and let it idle for a while - this starts the fuel trim adaption and variator learning.
  4. Whilst the engine is running the bits like windows, radio code, clock, seats, etc can be sorted. I would also check the EPB if fitted.
  5. Switch engine off and lock/unlock to make sure all is working well and that the door handles are working (later cars).
 

makeshiftUK

Member
Messages
816
As the guys say above, don't be too trusting of a 'new' battery. Even if it gives 12v it may not deliver enough current to get everything working again and QP's can be very demanding of electrons.

If the boot still fails to soft close with a known good battery try slamming it shut, then cycle the door locks with the fob a few of times to see if it re-syncs. I've also had the Parking Brake Failure indication, and resolved it by using the console switch to repeatedly activate/deactivate it whilst very gently trying to drive back and forth to see if it's actually released (but do not try to drive away until you're certain that it's fully released). It will also help to switch the ignition fully on (engine running) and off a few times.

I'm sure it will eventually work as advertised, it's just a bit of a faff getting there, and then you'll know the routine for next time like what I did ;)
This... cycling through lock/unlock wasn't working. Slammed the trunk shut manually, cycled through lock/unlock... now ALL doors are working properly and the electrical trunk closure. Going for a test drive now...
 

Alan Surrey

Member
Messages
357
Sounds promising. Hope it goes well for you.:)
It sounds like you have been in a very deep, dark woodland. Hope you find yourself out of the woods soon.
By the way, just my opinion, but there is no way I would be driving it to ACE today. After the experience you have had, I would want a couple of days demonstrably out of the woods, followed by a short high speed local run to build a bit of confidence, then a few more days of daily driving. That should demonstrate its serviceability and then I would feel confident to drive it anywhere !
 

Wanderer

Member
Messages
5,791
I never do any of this and believe me I've had my share of flat batteries. All seem to work after no issues - just wish it would remember the radio code etc!
 

makeshiftUK

Member
Messages
816
Update... not good news.

After a few days of no issues since the new battery went in (and several long journeys since) I opened the boot today to stick the CTEK on... stuck on 2 lights, thats not right, it was charging the fine the last 2/3 days.

Noticed the rear doors weren't electrically actuating, whilst the fronts (and the boot) were OK. Tried starting her a moment ago - and it was literally just enough to get the engine going, but the usual 'parking brake failure' associated with low charge. And according to the car, it was Dec 31st 2099. Post-engine start, the rear doors started working again.

Back on the CTEK now, but I suspect my car has just lunched its second battery in the space of a week. My thoughts - rogue electrical discharge from something?
 

Zep

Moderator
Messages
6,604
I doubt you have killed this one if it started, just charge it up with the -ve terminal disconnected.

It does sound like you have a parasitic drain though. Do you have a multimeter?

 

makeshiftUK

Member
Messages
816
I doubt you have killed this one if it started, just charge it up with the -ve terminal disconnected.

It does sound like you have a parasitic drain though. Do you have a multimeter?

Thanks Zep... -ve terminal disconnected and back on charge, I'll have a rummage around for a multimeter tomorrow.
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
40,271
Thanks Zep... -ve terminal disconnected and back on charge, I'll have a rummage around for a multimeter tomorrow.
I don't want to be obvious but isn't it more likely that some kind of alternator fault is causing either not enough or too much charge? It's not clear to me if the car had been on the CTEK during the 'few days' but if it's not now accepting charge, sounds like it could have been fried?

C
 

makeshiftUK

Member
Messages
816
I don't want to be obvious but isn't it more likely that some kind of alternator fault is causing either not enough or too much charge? It's not clear to me if the car had been on the CTEK during the 'few days' but if it's not now accepting charge, sounds like it could have been fried?

C
Not at all, all thoughts/opinions welcome...

I fully charged the new battery Weds, and installed it Thursday AM... took it for a long run to the Ace Meet. Popped it back on charge Friday AM, didn't take long to reach full charge, and went out for another long drive early afternoon. Left the car for the rest of the day Friday, all of Saturday, and then run into the above issues as described at 13:00 or so today.

Whatever happened between parking up on Friday afternoon and this morning more or less zonked the new battery, it seems.
 

Zep

Moderator
Messages
6,604
It doesn’t sound like alternator, but when you find your multimeter check the voltage with the engine running. Should be around 14 volts.
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
40,271
Not at all, all thoughts/opinions welcome...

I fully charged the new battery Weds, and installed it Thursday AM... took it for a long run to the Ace Meet. Popped it back on charge Friday AM, didn't take long to reach full charge, and went out for another long drive early afternoon. Left the car for the rest of the day Friday, all of Saturday, and then run into the above issues as described at 13:00 or so today.

Whatever happened between parking up on Friday afternoon and this morning more or less zonked the new battery, it seems.
Actually I'd say that it tipped over the edge between Friday's drive and and Sunday. My thinking is that over voltage due to an alternator issue might be cooking the battery during the long drives, and then preventing it from taking a proper charge. I'd also expect that condition, if serious, to throw an alternator light if it's bad enough. Significant over voltage will also cause the ZF box to lock into either 3rd or 5th gear (from memory)

@Zep as forgotten more about batteries than I'll ever know, so I expect my hypothesis to be soundly debunked imminently....

C
 

makeshiftUK

Member
Messages
816
Whatever is causing this, it’s a PITA. Can’t leave the car on charge overnight because it’s raining, again. Let’s see what tomorrow brings.
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
40,271
overnight because it’s raining, again
Ummm, what? Both my GT and my continental were / are permanently connected to a CTEK. The boot will close just fine on either the 240v or 12v cable. Clearly you need to keep the plugs under cover, but I just run cables under the garage door.

Weather no object

C
 

Zep

Moderator
Messages
6,604
Actually I'd say that it tipped over the edge between Friday's drive and and Sunday. My thinking is that over voltage due to an alternator issue might be cooking the battery during the long drives, and then preventing it from taking a proper charge. I'd also expect that condition, if serious, to throw an alternator light if it's bad enough. Significant over voltage will also cause the ZF box to lock into either 3rd or 5th gear (from memory)

@Zep as forgotten more about batteries than I'll ever know, so I expect my hypothesis to be soundly debunked imminently....

C
Your not wrong, but to me the symptoms point to parasitic drain. It’s all part of the process of fault finding.