My winter project

[CatmanV2]

My first attempt at machine polishing, then a coat of Harley's wax, not too bad.

Looks good to me!
C

 

[jasst]

Still got the CEL problem, this time it came on after only 15 miles since reset, but no codes stored, had to isolate battery to switch it off

 

[Oneball]

Are you sure your code reader is compatible? There has to be a code to generate the CEL.

 

[jasst]

Well, it has worked every other time, (every trip)
Going to put my oem cats back on and run it like that for a while to see what happens

 

[CatmanV2]

Are you sure your code reader is compatible? There has to be a code to generate the CEL.

This is what I would have thought

C

 

[philw696]

Totally agreed if the light is on there is a code or codes in there for sure.

 

[jasst]

Well every time it has happened before, there was, P4021, and P4031, this time nothing, nada, zilch, no codes stored

 

[jasst]

Believe it or its winter again, (how time flies!) so its time to do a few more things, first thing is to remove the dashboard centre vents as they are the only bits I haven't 'de- stickied' can someone re fresh my memory as to how to remove them so I don't go in all guns blazing and end up breaking something.

 

[Oneball]

They just pull out from memory, but the chrome trim on the centre ones is bolt from behind.

 

[safrane]

There is a small tab that needs to be lifted free to allow the vent tube to pull out easy.

It's located inside the tube about 5mm and there are two of them in each.

 

[jasst]

Picking this up as its winter again, decided to have another go at replacing the F1 pump motor. Thought I might be able to do it without removing rear bumper to remove spare wheel well heat shield, but with my limited mobility ( frozen shoulder) and limited facilities that proved to be a no go, so off came the rear bumper again. Boy it's still tight, quite a few battle scars on my hands, but got it all out today, without too much grief, had to do the trick of cutting the wire from the motor, as there is no way I can get anything in to undo the clamp on the top that holds that wire, so cable ties will have to be deployed on re assembly. Have bought the excellent silicone hose kit from @A.S. Motorsport as would be dtupid not to do those at the same time.

 

[safrane]

I was amazed with the difference in the speed of the new pump after having mine done last year.

 

[jasst]

Pump is now back in, just need to work out a way to bleed it on my own.

 

[philw696]

Pump is now back in, just need to work out a way to bleed it on my own.

Get someone to open the driver's door and you open the bleed nipple.

 

[Zep]

Get someone to open the driver's door and you open the bleed nipple.

Could you lock and unlock with the fob for the same effect?

 

[philw696]

Do you have access to diagnostic gear ?

 

[jasst]

Do you have access to diagnostic gear ?

Only a basic code reader, which wont be much good. Read every thread on hear about how to do it, going to try the opening the door trick a few times

 

[jasst]

Tried bleeding it today with my vacuum bleeder kit, hopefully will have worked, connected battery back up and pump sounded to be running much faster when i opened the door, and for not as long as before, was going to fire it up and run through gears while on axle stands to check all is working, but battery didn't have enough juice as used it on the inverter when had power cut last week, so will try again when charged to test for leaks and correct functioning before I put rear bumper etc back on

 

[jasst]

All back together, took her for a quick test this morning, changing gear as it should so guess all is good, new motor is much faster than old one, so guess it was all worth while. One problem which has surfaced is that the exhaust valves are permanently open, checked linkage to each one, and all moves as it should, sport button seems to make gear changes faster, and stiffens suspension, but has no effect on exhaust flaps, any ideas?

 

[safrane]

If its a GS it is the vacuum that closes them.