non starting 3200, just turning over, got fuel ok

[2b1ask1]

Old fuel??? More than a year old and it could be your issue, it looks and smells right but just won’t run! Shelf life on modern fuel is getting ever shorter.

 

[CatmanV2]

No padlock. Will look for diagram in lunch break. Thanks.
Got my spare key coded at locksmith in Kendal. Have zero success with infernal procedure from manual!

Is that for the CODE or the central locking?

C

 

[rs48635]

Is that for the CODE or the central locking?

C

the CODE was fixed. Turned out the actual rfid chip was missing and they even supplied replacement.
Even with new batteries the remote locking is inoperative. Could be the car of course

 

[rs48635]

Important to remember that the battery needs to be 100% on the 3200 - if its a little weak the car will fail to start. Jump start or put battery on charge perhaps?

battery was "fully charged" but added jump leads from spare battery (came out of the QP). The in car battery voltage reading something less than 12v while cranking.
Need a new multimeter to validate.

 

[alfatwo]

Battery!

Dave

 

[RSM Masser]

Camshaft sensor was my classic non start
Drove to MOT station
Low loader home
FFS

 

[allandwf]

What year is the car? Read the engine codes.

 

[conaero]

I’ve sorted this on several 3200’s, lock, unlock try start. It’s the imobiliser not cutting out fully.

Worth a try.

 

[davy83]

i would also vote for the immobiliser. If my car cranks ok but won't go and no sign of firing at all, its generally the immobiliser.

 

[rs48635]

I’ve sorted this on several 3200’s, lock, unlock try start. It’s the imobiliser not cutting out fully.

Worth a try.

This has cured mine in the past.
Now the immobiliser / central locking does not work! Can lock & unlock with key in the door. Neither key will remote lock or unlock despite new batteries (inside each key).
Left it on charge again to test tomorrow. Will read the tea leaves codes via cheap OBD tester too.

 

[rs48635]

right - blown fuse restored central locking using key in door
remote central locking not working - will check boot for fuses and connectors

OBD code P0326 is persistent. Can this cause no start symptom (no spark seems logical) ?
Before I pull the intake plenum and start on the whole "while you are in there?" saga.

 

[Oneball]

right - blown fuse restored central locking using key in door
remote central locking not working - will check boot for fuses and connectors

OBD code P0326 is persistent. Can this cause no start symptom (no spark seems logical) ?
Before I pull the intake plenum and start on the whole "while you are in there?" saga.

Id have thought a knock sensor failure would just cause the ECU to set the timing to a default safe setting and not cause no start.

I can’t remember the answer but does the alarm system (remote central locking) also immobilise the car?

 

[rs48635]

Id have thought a knock sensor failure would just cause the ECU to set the timing to a default safe setting and not cause no start.

I can’t remember the answer but does the alarm system (remote central locking) also immobilise the car?

Tend to agree with your theory.
Need to get the alarm / immobiliser working first. Battery master reset followed by alarm/immobiliser reset cured every problem in the past.

 

[rs48635]

From another thread - checked the TB looking at the butterfly . The is not jammed in one position but has zero spring loading. This seems really bad as I did expect the flap to spring shut and only open with operation of the throttle pedal (via ecu).
Can someone confirm? Will then remove from the car and ponder options for refurb or replace.

 

[conaero]

Don’t stick your finger in the TB with the battery on. If it descides to shut your pointing days will be over but worse you will have to take the plenum off to retrieve your finger

 

[davy83]

From another thread - checked the TB looking at the butterfly . The is not jammed in one position but has zero spring loading. This seems really bad as I did expect the flap to spring shut and only open with operation of the throttle pedal (via ecu).
Can someone confirm? Will then remove from the car and ponder options for refurb or replace.

Ok with the ignition off, the flap should sit slightly open. when you press it shut there should be a spring force pushing back, and when you release it it should return to where it started. If it sticks fully closed then it may just need cleaned. If it feels sticky like there is a lot of friction (as opposed to spring force) then its likely the internal motor magnet is breaking up and it will need a full rebuild to fix that.
The throttle body also does a self check on start-up. So when you apply power (ignition on) it should whine and initially close then open and then sit at a partially open position with the slight whine continuous. If it starts this self test and the slight whining noise stops then it has failed its self test and its broken!!
If its just flapping around in the wind and has no force on it at all then that's weird but its possible the springs have broken, although this is pretty uncommon. I am wondering if when you say "zero spring loading" its perhaps got a lot of friction because of the magnet fault and the spring is unable to return it to its slightly open position?

 

[CatmanV2]

Don’t stick your finger in the TB with the battery on. If it descides to shut your pointing days will be over but worse you will have to take the plenum off to retrieve your finger

That would be tricky with a finger down as well

C

 

[Oneball]

When you turn the key the TB should do this https://oneball.smugmug.com/Cars/Maserati/n-HHjTtf/i-QQB2nFJ

 

[davy83]

here is another video of the throttle body doing a successful start up test. Note the whistling noise which the motor makes, if this stops during the start up test then its failed.

 

[davy83]

and how to check for friction with it switched off.