Radio / NIT bezel

k1coupe

Junior Member
Messages
99
Started with the bezel file already used here for replacing NIT with a double DIN radio/ Nav. I added an opening for hazard switch in it:
78457
78458
78459

78460

78461

Contacted 3D printing shops, one could be ordered for about $150, I will be getting one for myself. for quantity of 5 it will be $10 cheaper.
If anyone else interested to replace his NIT, like to hear from them. I'll be shopping around more for abetter price and post if I find any.

The switch shown above did not fit, the dimensions posted by seller were wrong, once I bought the switch it was bigger than to fit in the cut shown above
 
Last edited:

midlifecrisis

Member
Messages
16,102
Nice, no doubt you will be able to free up space in the armrest too, where a lot of the NIT electronics are. Have you thought about making something for that?
 

FIFTY

Member
Messages
3,100
Looks good. You should also bevell the vertical edges so it is easier for your fingers to reach the screen

I am interested but in two minds. On one hand I am thinking to retain the originality of the car which will involve getting the buttons resurfaced... while on the other I think the ancient Fiat system needs to go before the NIT eventually fails due to age (how annoying would that be if it happens installing freshly painted buttons). I am yet to make my mind up

Put me down as a maybe?
 

MrJoshua

Member
Messages
175
Nice, no doubt you will be able to free up space in the armrest too, where a lot of the NIT electronics are. Have you thought about making something for that?

There's not enough room behind the screen for a proper double-din unit, so unless you're properly handy, the main unit for the stereo will still need to go under the arm rest.
 

k1coupe

Junior Member
Messages
99
I am going to proceed as such:
2 Double DINS I bought on ebay in past years sounded like sh*t, the emphasis for these radio/nave had become processor speed,software level, numerous features but the audio quality is generally bad and is worse than the old car radio. So I'll be
going to show rooms to find a decent sounding double DIN nav/radio. Once I purchase one then I could modify the bezel
file to make sure it fits well and vertical edges are smooth, so as is I do not consider the file final version.
I'll be putting my original NIT for sale soon, if anyone needs a replacement for his broken one
 

Masera

Member
Messages
144
I would definitely be interested here as well in the US, but would like to know what head unit it would be made for.
 

k1coupe

Junior Member
Messages
99
Due to plenty of snow and Covid19 I am not in a rush to buy my Double DIN unit, but I do it by Jan after I listen to it at BestBuy or other outfits. most likely it will be a brand name that been in Audio long before units became mostly a computer, brands like Sony, Pioneer, JVC, Alpine, Jensen....etc , those companies do not embarrass themselves by selling units with sounds as bad as most brand X Chinese brands that are over 90% of what is on ebay and Amazon.
Also one plastic printer reminded me of a common plastic design rule and mentioned part could be made cheaper if designed hollow with ribs to reinforce for strength, this is rule number one in plastic injection molding, avoiding chunky thick sections as
they generally warp when cooling off, apparently same rule applies to 3D printing too. So I will be modifying the design file more after making sure that VW switch (it has a relay inside it too) could work fine as a regular hazard switch.
It will most likely accommodate a number of Double DIN 6.8" to 7" display units. Keep in mind it has hefty price of about $150
for a few ounce plastic part that if injection molded cost about $5 each ( brass inserts included too), have done plastics decades ago:

78493

78494

I find it most absurd that this one sells for over $250

78498
 
Last edited:

k1coupe

Junior Member
Messages
99
As I said before, just be careful about "Double DIN" - There is hardly any room behind the screen.
Thank you for reminding,I'll be taking mine out and measure the space in a week or 2. even if that happen units with detached screens are available as you mentioned.
 

k1coupe

Junior Member
Messages
99
I am very retired, most of the design of this bezel was done and I just added minor modifications. Rule of thumb is that cost of re designing a part exceeds the high price that dealer charges. But do shop around.
 

montravia

Member
Messages
1,617
I am very retired, most of the design of this bezel was done and I just added minor modifications. Rule of thumb is that cost of re designing a part exceeds the high price that dealer charges. But do shop around.
I appreciate that. I was teasing. I do CAD too so know how time intensive it is.
The none recurring cost has to be amortized over the production number.
Robin
 

Gooner

Member
Messages
443
Looks like a very good bezel. I’m happy with mine but for a Spyder the hazard switch location options are a bit more limited, so that is a neat solution.

As FIFTY said I fitted a Pioneer EVO62DAB. Once you get your head round completely removing the NIT, everything gets easier IMHO. Sablewolf did a great job figuring out how to keep the centre console lights working with the NIT removed, very easy in the end.
 

k1coupe

Junior Member
Messages
99
Looks good. You should also bevell the vertical edges so it is easier for your fingers to reach the screen
I am receiving the switch and test it in car next week, after that I re touch the CAD file and order myself a bezel.
What vertical edges you like beveled? (bevel or chamfer ? ), is it the front 7" screen rectangular opening? I was thinking
about just reducing its thickness.
Like to have one made by Jan. Just took out the old one and post it for sale:
 
Last edited:

FIFTY

Member
Messages
3,100
With the overall shape of the bezel a chamfered edge would look better than bevelled

Reducing the thickness would work too as long as the bezel does not look "sunken" into the dash
 

Sablewolf

Member
Messages
103
Although I went for what is basically a small 7inch Android PC the functionality is a bit ‘clunky’ on occasions and it takes a minute or so to start up the satnav and DAB radio so I’m thinking about changing it out for the pioneer unit as it’s annoying me.
Might not get around to that until after Christmas now though...
 

k1coupe

Junior Member
Messages
99
Pioneer unit is only on sale from European sellers and the plus $100 for an extension cable is just too much.
There is about 35mm depth available behind bezel and radio fits another 35mm into bezel giving only less
than 70mm of depth for install. Many bad sound (10% THD) low dept units available to go ahead with a
terrible choice for audio.
78951

Modified the bezel that radio goes in it another 10mm close to front opening and made bezel itself 10mm more
deep (this may or may not be noticeable after install) , so allowed dept now is less than 80mm.
There are a number of good brands making 178mm x 100mm x 75mm units, JVC and Kenwood have some
with acceptable sound (less than 1% THD)

78950

78949

hole on the side is for panel mount USB connector and hole on top for hazard switch.
I order one bezel from a local 3D printing after I receive my hazard switch and verify it
fits well

This work was completed later in Jan 2021 and posted at:

 
Last edited:

FIFTY

Member
Messages
3,100
Is the Kenwood unit actually carplay? The ones I looked at only had a mirror function. Keep in mind you need to keep a few mm behind the unit for cable routing.
 

k1coupe

Junior Member
Messages
99
Is the Kenwood unit actually carplay? The ones I looked at only had a mirror function. Keep in mind you need to keep a few mm behind the unit for cable routing.
80mm gives 5mm to move the cables from obstacles in the back to more deep for connecting.
Kenwood and JVC are very close companies, Kenwood models are DMX47073,DMX47S,DMX7706S, JVC's are KW-M75BT,KW-M750BT,KW-740BT, KW-M56BT and KW-M560BT they all have apple carplay and android play