Revving issues, knock sensor errors and ignition coil errors

davy83

Member
Messages
2,265
63005



63006
63007
Pedal sensor set up instructions, if you need more or want some debug type info jsut drop me a mail thing and I can send some of my diagnostic notes.
I probably ought to post this lot some where as a guide for owners
 

Trev Latter

Centenary Club
Messages
1,170
To add to the sage advice already offered, it might be worth checking the engine earth leads (on the back of the plenum chamber on the bell housing bolts). Dodgy earth connections can throw up all sorts of fault codes.
 

McAnix

New Member
Messages
13
Hi guys,

Having recovered somewhat from the current winter cough bug I finally got around to clearing the computer warnings and taking her out for a roar down the freeway.

Before the reset, I had driven it once in town and had a few issues again with revs that were too high. A throttle reset appeared to have fixed that, at least temporarily.

Today, I hooked up the laptop and reset the diag codes. They all disappeared, except one:
P0331 - Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)

I left that for what it was and took her out for a spin. Driving showed no problems whatsoever. Started well, no issues idling nor revving, no strange noises, accelerated well.

Unfortunately, after hooking it up it once again presented a slew of error codes:

P0150, 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0110, Intake Air Temp Circuit Malfunction
P0325, Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 or single sensor)
P0330, Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)
0x1172, item not found in list
0x1225, item not found in list
P0326, Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 or single sensor)
P0331, Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)

So if I'm reading this right, re-checking the throttle installation is definitely worth doing. I'll have a look at the wiring and the butterfly and check the springs, make sure it's clean, etc.

The other codes I'm not so sure of. On a related note: can I be sure I've got the right error defs? The Diagnostics software has a number of different error code definition files. Should I choose any specific one? I'm using the default selection (UIniDiagKWP2000_0_4_0_3_) right now.

Thank you again for your time =)

Regards, Mc
 

davy83

Member
Messages
2,265
UUUrgh, thats quite a list. There is a fairly solid knock sensor theme going on here!!! 1225 is either gearbox or pedal/throttle related, will need to check my book, but its one that appears occasionally on all these cars and may be worth ignoring. I would replace the knock sensors and then see how it goes from there, probably solve one at a time. The O2 sensor error could be real as these don't last forever and if the mixtures been off for a while because of faulty knock sensors then rich mixtures can cause problems for O2 sensors I think. Equally getting the knock problem sorted and then a few longer runs where the engine reaches full temperature might clear this up too? Intake air temp is a cheap and easy sensor to replace, but is also one that is very simple and to my knowledge not prone to failure. Is the wiring and connector all looking ok? Might be worth replacing air temp sensor as a punt?
 

Rex B

Member
Messages
581
You can check the Air Temp sensor it should be 3550 ohms art 20 c and 252 ohms at 90c all plus or minus 10%.
If it was mine I would change the Knock sensors and and while you have the inlet manifold off I would check the seal on the bottom plate which might help with your idle problem.

If after resetting and testing you still get Lambda fault codes I would change both of them.

Rex B
 

McAnix

New Member
Messages
13
Allright gents, thank you again for the tips! Knock sensors it is, and I'll also replace everything in sight on the way down as necessary. I'll let you guys know how it all pans out. Probably won't be done before the holidays though, so Merry Passover and a Happy Summer Solstice :cool::p
 

Saigon

Member
Messages
295
Allright gents, thank you again for the tips! Knock sensors it is, and I'll also replace everything in sight on the way down as necessary. I'll let you guys know how it all pans out. Probably won't be done before the holidays though, so Merry Passover and a Happy Summer Solstice :cool::p
Merry Christmas.
 

McAnix

New Member
Messages
13
Hey all, its been a while but I finally got everything sorted. Turns out your gut instincts were right: it was the pedal pot. Despite being wireless and relatively new it had a microfracture in the casing that borked the pot. I got a new one and after resetting the rev issues were gone.

On the way I also replaced the knock sensors, cleaned out the V, replaced the air intake piping and hoses where I could, and she is now purring like the pretty black kitten she is =) My only remaining issue is a whine when I turn the steering which is probably either steering oil too low or the power steering pump acting up. I'll look into that next.

At any rate, a huge thank you to all of you who spent your time providing me with pointers! Hopefully I can help someone out in turn in due course :)
 

Oneball

Member
Messages
3,376
Power steering pump would be my guess, I replaced the one on mine it was surprisingly cheap.
 

davy83

Member
Messages
2,265
Hi McAnix so my sensor had a crack in the sensor body? Any chance you could send that back to me so I can see what went wrong? or a photo perhaps? I don't see many failures really do you think its been hit with something? Also its possible I could have just replaced the broken bit of it, I have quite a collection of parts these days.
 

spkennyuk

Member
Messages
4,554
Hey all, its been a while but I finally got everything sorted. Turns out your gut instincts were right: it was the pedal pot. Despite being wireless and relatively new it had a microfracture in the casing that borked the pot. I got a new one and after resetting the rev issues were gone.

On the way I also replaced the knock sensors, cleaned out the V, replaced the air intake piping and hoses where I could, and she is now purring like the pretty black kitten she is =) My only remaining issue is a whine when I turn the steering which is probably either steering oil too low or the power steering pump acting up. I'll look into that next.

At any rate, a huge thank you to all of you who spent your time providing me with pointers! Hopefully I can help someone out in turn in due course :)
The whine from the power steering could just be air getting into the system.

First check the power steering fluid level and top up if required

Bleed the air out by turning the steering wheel full lock in both direction a couple of times. If the noise then goes its air getting in.

If you then have a look through the front grill of your car at the radiator you will see a smaller radiator in front of it at the base of the coolant radiator. Its on the left side with two thin pipes going to it. Its approx 8 inches in height. Look for signs of it leaking as its a known weak spot.

If its leaking then up rated after market units are available. Your unlikely to see any fluid leaking out under the car as the under tray catches it.

They can weap for awhile and you not be aware of it and then just give up without warning.

Torch might be needed as it not easy to see until you know exactly where it is.
 

McAnix

New Member
Messages
13
Hi McAnix so my sensor had a crack in the sensor body? Any chance you could send that back to me so I can see what went wrong? or a photo perhaps? I don't see many failures really do you think its been hit with something? Also its possible I could have just replaced the broken bit of it, I have quite a collection of parts these days.
Hi Dave,
I've no idea what caused it. I might well have accidentally kicked it :p I'm on holiday just now but once I get back I'll take a few pics and send them to you.
 

allandwf

Centenary Club
Messages
8,877
Well done in getting to the bottom of it. Re power steering, check the gators are not full of oil, mine had a leak but wasn't noticeable until I removed the gators.
 

Silvercat

Member
Messages
812
Hi all!

My 3200GT is acting up a bit so I'm trying to work out what is wrong, and hope you guys are willing to have a quick look at my errors =)

My woes started with intermittently going into Limp Mode; I wouldn't be able to get it over 120kph even if the wind were right. This problem went away for a while after I had flushed the oil (it was a few months after I had bought it, and figured that even though the previous owner was knowledgeable, I figured it couldn't hurt.)

Now however it's back with a vengeance, and it comes combined with rev issues. I had that before once, but was able to fix that with the throttle reset trick. Now, I've tried that several times but no cigar. The car sometimes goes into limp mode, but on the other hand sometimes it keeps trying to rev up to 3-4k (it varies, sometimes it wants to rev far higher than other times, which lead me to suspect electronics.)

I have bought and hooked up an ODB reader and read out the error codes. Here's what showed up:

P0150, 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 sensor 1)
P0110, Intake air temperature circuit malfunction
P0325, Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 or single sensor)
P0330, Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0352, Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0354, Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0355, Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0356, Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
0x1172 Unknown code (googled it and found it is related to the Lambda Sensor?)
P0225, Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Malfunction

Note that the engine idles and runs fine when it's not in limp mode or in one of its "bad rev" phases - no misfires, fine idling (though it does seem to "breathe", i.e. slight ups/downs idling, but as I understand it that's normal).
Also, the previous owner replaced the throttle with a wireless version so that "shouldn't" (famous last words, but I have the invoice :p) be the issue.

Finally, I must shamefully admit to having hitherto used standard supermarket fuel. I thought I had read up sufficiently, but apparently not. After leafing through the forums I'm already convinced. I'll swap to V-Power or similar.

Now my amateur sleuthing skills have me seeing primarily electrical problems here. Am I guessing correctly that the primary suspects are the lambda sensors, and secondary are wiring or something? Or should I look at the sparkies / coils first?

Thank you for your time =)

regards, McAnix
I had some of these kind of problems on my old 2009 QP 4.7 S. Turns out it was one of the ignitor coils which was goosed and fortunately for me, it was on one of the cylinders I could easily access by removing a few things. Took me 30 minutes to replace with a new one (£105 each!) and reassemble everything. Surprise surprise that fixed it so all I had to do was clear the error codes.
Just one point I would make, I was told by a main dealer that once one ignitor coil fails (@c.45k miles), then they all start to fail because where they are buried deep down in the cylinder head, they have to endure extremes of heat from engine which eventually frys the electrics. So I always carried a spare just in case. Worth checking this out.