All good thanks @outrun Just rather busy these days (in a good way )T - you're alive! Long time buddy, hope you're well.
Hum it’s not designed to no but saying that the only integration with the oem unit is the video in and out cable to access use of the screen. If that is the same then yes it will work.Will it work with QP Bose NIT?
Thx
Oh bu@@er mine is Bose. Hope so.Hum it’s not designed to no but saying that the only integration with the oem unit is the video in and out cable to access use of the screen. If that is the same then yes it will work.
For those who don’t wish to do it themselves Prestige in St Albans will do it for a couple of hundred quid or any other audio installer.
If I may stick my nose in …. an earlier post shows both front & rear camera inputs. Although the software/switching for a dual setup hadn't been tested at that stage.... is it possible to run a front camera as well?
Or leave them on when parked and record into USB perfect ding recorders. Ideal.If I may stick my nose in …. an earlier post shows both front & rear camera inputs. Although the software/switching for a dual setup hadn't been tested at that stage.
It might be worth noting that most setups will require reverse to be engaged before the camera becomes active - usually tapping into the reverse light feed is all that is required. Once first/neutral is selected the camera deactivates. But, typically, this reverse feed signal is still required to activate a second front facing camera. Which, again, deactivates when selecting first/neutral. Strange but true. However, you can get around this "limitation" using a double diode isolation method. Both cameras are still wired using the reverse feed signal but, using a pair of diodes and a secondary switch, both cameras can be turned on and off at will. Effectively creating a monitor which can also be useful in, say, heavy traffic for example. If doing this its best to power the cameras from a MAR position feed - just in case you forget to turn them off. The cameras don't use much power (around .1 amp) but …...
In practise, as the cameras are facing away from the car, you will only capture directly in front and behind. Probably better off with a dedicated dash cam sited inside the car. Also, I suspect you'd have to wire an additional manual switch to direct the camera stream to a dedicated recorder. Bypassing the HU, or hub in this instance, altogether. Most won't "do" recording. Although "rooted" android devices can be made to do all sorts of weird and wonderful stuff - am playing around with rooting my Kenwood at the moment. All to get a decent graphic EQ display - how f****** sad is that!Or leave them on when parked and record into USB perfect ding recorders. Ideal.
Agreed. Rather you than me. Now, where has my valve set gone?In practise, as the cameras are facing away from the car, you will only capture directly in front and behind. Probably better off with a dedicated dash cam sited inside the car. Also, I suspect you'd have to wire an additional manual switch to direct the camera stream to a dedicated recorder. Bypassing the HU, or hub in this instance, altogether. Most won't "do" recording. Although "rooted" android devices can be made to do all sorts of weird and wonderful stuff - am playing around with rooting my Kenwood at the moment. All to get a decent graphic EQ display - how f****** sad is that!
Well the ones from Oz were awful! Perhaps Conaero could post the fitting instructions on this thread?
I'll have one as well IF:
1. The install instructions are more clear an concise than the ones from the company in Australia
2. You can ship to the US