Why Are My Nuts Sooo Tight.

Phil the Brit

Phil the Brit

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Zep said:
It’s about 75 lb/ft. So I think you need to up your nut pressure.
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Sorry, when I said per inch I meant to say foot.
55 too low then. Always remember that setting from rally car days when wheels came off at pretty much every service area.
 
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lifes2short

lifes2short

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i've owned the same torque wrench for about 35 years and i can honestly say that i've never ever used it on wheels, i just use a socket drive wrench and then a small breaker bar and once i feel it's good that's it, i've done a fair few wheels in the last 40 years and never had a problem with either wheels falling off or problems removing at a later stage, i do always use a smear of copper ease on the threads and a very very light smear of grease on the wheel hub face, i did buy a Makita cordless impact wrench about 5 years ago and now just give them a very light spin on with that and then the final bit with a small breaker bar again, i suppose if running a business then it's probably wise to train staff to use them on wheels just as a precaution
 
Navcorr

Navcorr

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conaero said:
Any workshop worth their salt .... use a smear of copper slip on the mount and on the nuts/bolts ....
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This, from Aldousvoice.com, contradicts your advise:
"Whilst we’re on the topic of wheel bolts, I’d like to mention that I do not like to put any grease or copper ease on the threads. The reason is that lubrication on the threads can increase the likelihood of over tightening and stretching the bolt".
 
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TimR

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Navcorr said:
This, from Aldousvoice.com, contradicts your advise:
"Whilst we’re on the topic of wheel bolts, I’d like to mention that I do not like to put any grease or copper ease on the threads. The reason is that lubrication on the threads can increase the likelihood of over tightening and stretching the bolt".
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This is really what I was saying regarding any lubrication of the threads and the reduced friction when tightening...As long as you are aware. Afterall, it is widely used throughtout the world of assembly...Even Loctite acts as a lubricator during assebly, and that is definetely recommended by manufacturers widely...

Essentailly, you are packing out the thread with a mobile metal substance, one that cannot be compressed by much, and crams the thread profile...so there is definitely scope for not using it I guess...Who knoes what this actually does to the already upside down way the actual tensile pressure is(n't) measured in the fixig you are left with..?
At the very least, you need to adjust your torque numbers to suit...

Speaking with the guys @ Centre Gravity recently as a 100K mile Porsche was being stripped down in the arches, we discussed the topic of rust and concluded that the 911 had not been entirely assembled dry! Just to contradict a previous assertion.
I do know McGrath get a little ansi about the state of corrosion and will warn that rusty nuts will add to the final bill...!!

The other thing that comes to mind is the notion that all wheel nuts are set to the same tightening torques regardless of wheel type, construction and application.. Id be very surprised if that were true....
 
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allandwf

allandwf

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If lubricated, and using a rattle gun, you run the risk of over tightening past the elasticity point of the stud, it is unlikely but there are some neanderthals out there!
 
lifes2short

lifes2short

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too much techy and dare i say nonsense stuff about lubing the threads, a very small smear of copper ease on the threads is perfectly fine imo and i've done some fairly big monster wheels over the past decades
 
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TimR

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lifes2short said:
too much techy and dare i say nonsense stuff about lubing the threads, a very small smear of copper ease on the threads is perfectly fine imo and i've done some fairly big monster wheels over the past decades
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So back to fat ar5es and large cahones for you then...?!:yeah:
 
rs48635

rs48635

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like any topic we all have an opinion. good to see a spread of working methods. The bolts are rarely bone dry so might start by using moisture dispelling technique next time. No lube but absence of water.
My own experience is to use a smear of clear / white grease on the mating faces to counteract the corrosion. My wheels are removed many times each year and this avoids any force in removing the wheel. Changed from using copper grease after years of having dirty track marks on wheel rim inboard of the spokes. Like copper candy floss if enough is used :D
Took a proper mechanic to gently prompt me to change.
Me - "bloody wheels always have this sticky black line"
Twiggy "what are you using when fitting the wheels?"
Several years later the penny dropped. Thanks Mark.
 
GeoffCapes

GeoffCapes

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conaero said:
We see it from time to time.

Maserati wheel nuts should be torqued to 105nm.

I suspect it’s a combination of laziness and 400nm torque guns in the domestic general garages.

If the wheels have not been off in years, heat cycles and corrosion do play a part.

Any workshop worth their salt will wire brush the hub mount, use a smear of copper slip on the mount and on the nuts/bolts and check the torque setting at least twice, once as it comes off the ramp cold and a second time after a road test hot.

Ashley has drilled it into us from the start, he has a few stories from his Meridien days. People often overlook the simple stuff.

Phil, I suspect you have a few too?
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I'm pretty sure the manual on my GTS said 98nm.
 
GeoffCapes

GeoffCapes

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CatmanV2 said:
Pretty sure, lubed or otherwise, 7nm ain't gonna make a whole load of difference, but happy to be educated!
C
Click to expand...

Obviously I don't own a GTS anymore but I'm sure it was in the manual under the changing a tyre section. As when I had the spacers fitted the guy asked what the torque settings should be.
 
Phil the Brit

Phil the Brit

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1,499
Went to Formula One Autocentre with my Ferrari 599 to have four new TPMS valves fitted. Manager there was particularly appreciative to have such a car in the workshop and said he had put his top guy on the job. Staff even took picture of it in workshop.
I stood in waiting room with glass windows overlooking workshop. They did up the wheel nuts in a circular motion ie did one up then moved on to the next one in a clockwise direction. Now in all my years I have always tightened wheel nuts up in a "tighten opposite nut next" configuration. They did then use a torque wrench.
Surely their "top boy" did it wrong?
 
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