3200 gt error code readers

[CharlieA]

Hello!

New to this forum, so hope everyone is having a good day.

Had several Maseratis, my first 3200 this.
From what I gather this car is rather prone to throw error codes.

My car beeing early 2000s, it's not got ODB port

Anyone have some good tips on a reader that can do the job?


Suspect it's throwing errors related to pedal sensor. Throttle is upgraded!


Got a 2.24v, Qp3 and a Lotus Esprit Turbo on the side

Cheers, Jarle Adolfsen, Norway

 

[davy83]

A starting point might be to download the ODB resources folder from www.maserati3200.net and use the links in the text file to find the correct cable for the 3 pin Fiat connector that will be in your car. There is also a copy there of Unidiag which some owners have got working on their early cars. There is also a French ODB software package called ODBfacile which one owner got working with the Fiat connector that I am aware of.

 

[CharlieA]

A starting point might be to download the ODB resources folder from www.maserati3200.net and use the links in the text file to find the correct cable for the 3 pin Fiat connector that will be in your car. There is also a copy there of Unidiag which some owners have got working on their early cars. There is also a French ODB software package called ODBfacile which one owner got working with the Fiat connector that I am aware of.

Thanks a lot! Bought the correct cable now online, gonna bring the car to the local shop when I receive it!
I am suspecting the pedal sensor to be the problem, since the TPS is upgraded.
Is the pedal sensor fiddly to remove?

 

[allandwf]

Thanks a lot! Bought the correct cable now online, gonna bring the car to the local shop when I receive it!
I am suspecting the pedal sensor to be the problem, since the TPS is upgraded.
Is the pedal sensor fiddly to remove?

If you are adept at laying sideways in the footwell , then it's ok lol. It is a bit fiddly.

 

[davy83]

Thanks a lot! Bought the correct cable now online, gonna bring the car to the local shop when I receive it!
I am suspecting the pedal sensor to be the problem, since the TPS is upgraded.
Is the pedal sensor fiddly to remove?

Its not good for your back !!! I have attached here the install instructions for the new replacement pedal sensors I make for the 3200, this will give you an idea of whats involved. You might want to try the calibration routine and see if that clears the errors first?

 

[CharlieA]

Its not good for your back !!! I have attached here the install instructions for the new replacement pedal sensors I make for the 3200, this will give you an idea of whats involved. You might want to try the calibration routine and see if that clears the errors first?

I have to calibrate every now and then, and that clears the code related to the pedal sensor.
Then I can drive a few days before I need to reset again! A bit tiresome

I am going to buy your sensor, but need to make sure that the original item is actually there first.

So plan is to confirm what's actually wrong with the reader, then order the parts!

 

[CharlieA]

If you are adept at laying sideways in the footwell , then it's ok lol. It is a bit fiddly.

Beeing somewhat of an powerlifting athlete, I do not fit very well sideways in footwells
But I have a workshop close by who will do this and probably complain to me about it afterwards!

 

[davy83]

I have to calibrate every now and then, and that clears the code related to the pedal sensor.
Then I can drive a few days before I need to reset again! A bit tiresome

I am going to buy your sensor, but need to make sure that the original item is actually there first.

So plan is to confirm what's actually wrong with the reader, then order the parts!

Try a couple of things that might confirm the pedal sensor, one is an old hack of joining the white and yellow wires from the pedal sensor together and then run the calibration again. If this makes the problem better then this means the two outputs are moving relative to each other because of wear.
The other thing to be careful of if you are recalibrating a lot, is what temperature the interior of the car is at when you run the calibration at. The original sensors move with temperature, and I think the ECU adjusts the calibration based on the cabin temp. So if oyu calibrate when the cars cold or hot then if it changes temperature inside the ECU moves the calibration and it fails.
Also worth checking for loose stuff. when measuring the pedal sensor output, press the pedal and release it a few times and make sure it returns to the same idle position and voltage every time. Another one that happened to me, is loose wires and bad contacts on the connector in the car loom. I would try kicking the wiring with my feet while sitting idling or even driving and see if the error coincided with me messing with the wiring.

 

[CharlieA]

Car will be at the workshop tomorrow, will be interresting to see if they can read the codes with their instrument or not.
Will keep you posted! If it works I will ask them what kind equipment they have.
I this doesn't work out I will go the unidiag route.

 

[craigs3200gt]

Hello, I want to investigate my pedal pot health and I want to do the wiring voltage tests described on a number of posts on this forum. However, I am not sure exactly where/how the wiring voltage test is to be done. I need some basic practical advice….

• Do I leave the PP connector still connected? If so, how do I use the multimeter to measure the voltage differences?
• Do I pull apart the PP wiring connector? If so, which side of the connector (male or female) do I attach the probes to?
• To do the White/Yellow wire joining trick, is there an easy way without literally hacking into the wires and making a mess of it all? Is it done with the connector connected, or disconnected?

Speaking of the PP connector, here are some close-up photos of the inside terminals of the connector. It looks like a lot of verdigris stained gel, in there. This could be a worry? Other forum members have by-passed the connector, as a last resort. Any thoughts?

Thanks for your help, CRAIG.

 

[davy83]

ok any measurements you make are when the sensor is plugged in. You ideally would have a meter with a croc clip for the common or negative wire and connect this to the car body work, a proper bolt or something with good metallic contact. The second meter probe needs to have a pretty fine point on it and push into the back of the connector to make contact with the pin.
The green colour you are seeing is a sign of copper corrosion and generally not a good sign. When I sell replacement pedal sensors I do offer to supply a replacement connector for the car side of this because the car side is where the spring contacts are. I can provide you with the connector or just tell you the part numbers. it does require the old connector to be cut off and the wires prepared, and contacts crimped onto them. I little fussy if you are not into wiring.
Patience and good lighting are important when doing this as well as a rubber spine.

 

[CharlieA]

Hello, I want to investigate my pedal pot health and I want to do the wiring voltage tests described on a number of posts on this forum. However, I am not sure exactly where/how the wiring voltage test is to be done. I need some basic practical advice….

• Do I leave the PP connector still connected? If so, how do I use the multimeter to measure the voltage differences?
• Do I pull apart the PP wiring connector? If so, which side of the connector (male or female) do I attach the probes to?
• To do the White/Yellow wire joining trick, is there an easy way without literally hacking into the wires and making a mess of it all? Is it done with the connector connected, or disconnected?

Speaking of the PP connector, here are some close-up photos of the inside terminals of the connector. It looks like a lot of verdigris stained gel, in there. This could be a worry? Other forum members have by-passed the connector, as a last resort. Any thoughts?

Thanks for your help, CRAIG.

Good question, wonder about the same things really.
Even though it could also be wiring, I have come to grips with reality which is the only way to lessen the "check engine" circus, is to remove the biggest culprits which are the t-body and pedal sensor.
Ordered the sensor now, since the t-body is already done with the former owner.

Hope someone who knows can answer you

Cheers, Jarle

 

[craigs3200gt]

Thanks for your great advice Dave,

I cleaned both sides of my PP connector with contact cleaner......it came up well. I carried out the voltage tests as instructed (on both sides of the connector) and came up with the following results.

PINK - 5.02v,
WHITE (Out 1) - 0.447v Idle, 3.16v max pedal
YELLOW (Out 2)-0.460v Idle, 3.17v max pedal
Grey - 0v.

It seemed to be within tolerance, so I didn't attempt to join the yellow and white wires (still not sure how to do that........do you simply push a tiny solid core wire into Y/W holes in the back of the connector?).

The reading changes were smooth whilst slowly depressing the pedal, so t looks like it's working correctly?? What do you think?

I think I still may have a problem with my upgraded Throttle Body, so I thought I would make a post onto a TB thread. I think Dave from Davy83 has made posts to most of these threads, so I hope he can contribute his ideas.

 

[davy83]

Ok first well done.
The only thing i would say here is that your two signals at idle are different by 0.013 volts (0.460-0.447) and the limit before you get an error is around 0.015 volts so this is close to the limit. Connecting the white and yellow wires will remove this potential issue. To achieve this in practice is messy. you could use one of these in line press fit splices over the white and yellow wire, or cut or at least bare some copper on the white and yellow wires and solder a link wire between the two? of if you can bare the two wires and get a link wire with 2 croc clips you might make a link that way, it is only for a test so it does not have to be perfect. A few cautionary thoughts. don't disconnect the white or yellow wires they must remain connected as they are. don't let bare wires touch anything, make sure you use tape or heatshrink to insulate any bare connection. Remember to calibrate after joining the wires because you have changed the calibration doing this.

 

[craigs3200gt]

Thanks Dave, for the response.
I may try the W/Y wire connection, as a last resort. In the meantime, I have to deal with my likely TB problem.
I'm away from the car ATM, so it may take a little while.
Regards, CRAIG.

 

[CharlieA]

Hey everybody!

Got the car from the workshop now, after they swapped in Dave's Throttle Position Pedal sensor.
For the first time ever, I had a 1hr+ drive, with no errorcodes, no erratic running and smooth throttle response.
From before the car had his Throttlebody, but that was only a part of the problem.

So, if this continues, this is definately the best money I've spent on any car, and anyone who considers a 3200 GT should do this before you buy to be honest.

Will post in a months time to tell how it works out in the long run!

Cheers, Jarle Adolfsen, Norway