ledlights
Junior Member
- Messages
- 189
Hi All,
My long-standing cutting out problem is back - any ideas gratefully received.
I've tried to think through when this all started, so I'll first list the problems and then I'll give the car's problem history.
The problems are:
1. If you drive the car at anything above 1600 rpm and put your foot on the clutch (without keeping the throttle depressed) the engine dies. This is a real pain coming up to roundabouts and junctions.
2. When cold, the engine starts fine. When warm, you have to give it some throttle or it starts then dies immediately.
3. When warm, if you blip the throttle the engine will idle unsteadily for a while afterward (if it doesn't stall).
4. The car will "surge" at 70-80mph as if you are accelerating and decelerating at a frequency of about 0.5-1Hz or so.
5. The car has no "check engine" lights or error codes.
It all started about 3 years ago after I had the plenum chamber plate come loose, resulting in a high idle speed. My specialist repaired this with the original gasket and some instant gasket repair and the screws were thread-locked in. Almost immediately afterward, the TB became faulty so I replaced it with a contact-less one from one of the guys on here. I think the plenum repair and the TB replacement were so close together that you couldn't differentiate when the stalling started.
I've had the plenum off a number of times to check for air leaks, I originally found a split in an o-ring but the problem remains after changing them all. I've checked the plenum plate gasket by pouring a small amount of fuel into the chamber when I'd removed in off the car, but it seems that it's gas tight so I don't think that can be the problem. I've changed the lambda sensors with Bosch replacements and the anti-knock sensors as a precaution and I've also changed the ECU and injection relays. The one senor I can't change is the crank sensor because some helpful soul has rounded out the allen screws but I would expect the crank senor to either fail completely or for it to cause sporadic stalling before springing back to life - as this is what I've seen them do before.
One other thing is that the new TB is quite noisy before and after the engine is running. It "sings" for perhaps 30 seconds after you shut the engine off.
Any other ideas chaps?
My long-standing cutting out problem is back - any ideas gratefully received.
I've tried to think through when this all started, so I'll first list the problems and then I'll give the car's problem history.
The problems are:
1. If you drive the car at anything above 1600 rpm and put your foot on the clutch (without keeping the throttle depressed) the engine dies. This is a real pain coming up to roundabouts and junctions.
2. When cold, the engine starts fine. When warm, you have to give it some throttle or it starts then dies immediately.
3. When warm, if you blip the throttle the engine will idle unsteadily for a while afterward (if it doesn't stall).
4. The car will "surge" at 70-80mph as if you are accelerating and decelerating at a frequency of about 0.5-1Hz or so.
5. The car has no "check engine" lights or error codes.
It all started about 3 years ago after I had the plenum chamber plate come loose, resulting in a high idle speed. My specialist repaired this with the original gasket and some instant gasket repair and the screws were thread-locked in. Almost immediately afterward, the TB became faulty so I replaced it with a contact-less one from one of the guys on here. I think the plenum repair and the TB replacement were so close together that you couldn't differentiate when the stalling started.
I've had the plenum off a number of times to check for air leaks, I originally found a split in an o-ring but the problem remains after changing them all. I've checked the plenum plate gasket by pouring a small amount of fuel into the chamber when I'd removed in off the car, but it seems that it's gas tight so I don't think that can be the problem. I've changed the lambda sensors with Bosch replacements and the anti-knock sensors as a precaution and I've also changed the ECU and injection relays. The one senor I can't change is the crank sensor because some helpful soul has rounded out the allen screws but I would expect the crank senor to either fail completely or for it to cause sporadic stalling before springing back to life - as this is what I've seen them do before.
One other thing is that the new TB is quite noisy before and after the engine is running. It "sings" for perhaps 30 seconds after you shut the engine off.
Any other ideas chaps?