3200GT idle and jerky in the first few minutes

Contigo

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More info.

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onlinesys

Junior Member
Messages
133
From the pic I posted on first page you can see the Pedal Pot and the grey cable is behind the carpet near that. As yours is probably a left hander then it will be reversed. Have a **** good route around behind the carpet and you will find it...

Hi Phil, mine is RHD too as it is illegal to register a left hooker
over here unless you are a consulate general of other country.
We need to use the classic car moving permit to have a
Limited run for our LHD oldies.

It would be extremely helpful if you could take a photo
and show me the exact location of the connector.
I really can't find it as the cables were all
stuck together wrapped by a few strings
 

onlinesys

Junior Member
Messages
133
Car is getting worse now as it was really difficult to start and the engine sounds rough
Even though I could start and hestitate to settle in neutral.
Feeling annoying!
 

ledlights

Junior Member
Messages
189
The location of the connector is shown in the photo Phil attached. The connector is under the carpet to the right of the accelerator pedal - it will probably be tucked down so you'll have to pull the carpet out from under the trim around the door to find it.

If the bottom plate on the plenum is loose the engine will idle at 1500-2000 rpm depending on how bad the air leak is - mine didn't result in rough running just a high idle with limited boost, so I'm not sure that it's the same as your problem unless yours is just starting to undo.

Good luck finding the problem.

Steve
 

onlinesys

Junior Member
Messages
133
The location of the connector is shown in the photo Phil attached. The connector is under the carpet to the right of the accelerator pedal - it will probably be tucked down so you'll have to pull the carpet out from under the trim around the door to find it.

If the bottom plate on the plenum is loose the engine will idle at 1500-2000 rpm depending on how bad the air leak is - mine didn't result in rough running just a high idle with limited boost, so I'm not sure that it's the same as your problem unless yours is just starting to undo.

Good luck finding the problem.

Steve

Hi Steve, found the plug and connected like this. It with no datalimage.jpg
 

onlinesys

Junior Member
Messages
133
Update on the current car start up situation
1. Reluctant to start, need to press the throttle to help
2. Once started, engine rough and idle at 1300
3. Press throttle, jerky engine and with backfire
like firework
4. 5-10min or so everything seems back to normal
 

ledlights

Junior Member
Messages
189
What does the diagnose tab look like?

You've got a keyword response so the comms are working.
 

onlinesys

Junior Member
Messages
133
What does the diagnose tab look like?

You've got a keyword response so the comms are working.

It is blank in Diagnose with no ID, no info nor error code. I tried with car key in 2 and even had the car started but still no ID could be detected.
I did change also the com to 1,3 or 5 but no luck.
 

davy83

Member
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2,823
Ok first thing it is never ok to touch the throttle pedal during starting. The ECU is quite fussy about this and I am surprised this is not causing an engine warning light as it normally assumes the throttle pedal output is a failure if its not in its idle position. the fact that it runs ok when its warmed up makes me wonder if your temperature sensor is goosed? if the ECU does not know the engine is cold it will not richen the mixture and retard the ignition and it will not want to start. Try the engine coolant temperature sensor, connectors and fuse. The sensor is a Fiat item and pretty cheap. Just a thought!

Update on the current car start up situation
1. Reluctant to start, need to press the throttle to help
2. Once started, engine rough and idle at 1300
3. Press throttle, jerky engine and with backfire
like firework
4. 5-10min or so everything seems back to normal
 

onlinesys

Junior Member
Messages
133
Thanks Davy83. Kind of strange to have a jerky throttle response and rough engine note even the temperature sensor is goosed.
I am a bit frustrated not being to get any info from the OBDII cable connection even though I got a connection response from the Unidiag 2000
software. Just blank info on the Diagnose page. I am 100% sure I did get DTC codes by using the same cable/software/notebook before.
:unsure:
 

ledlights

Junior Member
Messages
189
No codes on UNIDIAG means the ECU doesn't recognise any parameters as being outside of normal range. A back fire could be that a sparkplug is breaking down or that a coil pack is on its way out or as Davy said, the mixture is wrong. You should probably take the car back to whoever serviced it so that they can diagnose it.
 

Contigo

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In that software you need to select 5 baud init, then press START + ID, then once that button goes grey you need to click the "diagnose" tab.... Then from there click the "Read status of DTC".
 

ledlights

Junior Member
Messages
189
From the screen dumps, it looks like he's done everything but read the status on the diagnose page... he might just not have mentioned it.

Online says - if you don't have any error codes present when you read status, it could well be one of the faults mentioned in the thread already - many of them don't throw codes (although the MAP DTC did on mine when the plenum plate came loose).
 

davy83

Member
Messages
2,823
Yes for sure if you can get codes from the car this is much better and it will give you some ideas of where the problem lies, including the temperature sensor.
 

onlinesys

Junior Member
Messages
133
From the screen dumps, it looks like he's done everything but read the status on the diagnose page... he might just not have mentioned it.

Online says - if you don't have any error codes present when you read status, it could well be one of the faults mentioned in the thread already - many of them don't throw codes (although the MAP DTC did on mine when the plenum plate came loose).

Tried everything and there is no identification on the diagnose page. Checked the engine bay too and didn't see anything seems loose.

I guess need to take it back to indie after Easter holiday then
 

onlinesys

Junior Member
Messages
133
Yes for sure if you can get codes from the car this is much better and it will give you some ideas of where the problem lies, including the temperature sensor.

I started the car this morning again.
1. First key switch, can't start, just crank
2. switch off, turn key and a bit of gas and start reluctantly
3. idle ok at 1200rpm but rough and a bit unsteady, smell rich with a bit of gas/oil
4. after few minutes, switch off and restart car is back to normal at normal idle at 800-900rpm
5. engine sound ok too and press throttle and engine rev fine.

However, still no identification code and info on OBDII