4200 Spyder volt meter reading

Andy Marshall

Member
Messages
297
OK guys, my 4200 Spyder has developed a quirk (fault?)
Until a recent track event, the voltmeter in the car nearly always ready between 13.5 and 14 volts, sometimes a bit higher. Since that day, it has read between 12.5 and 13.5 volts. Sometimes it will even dip to 12 volts, (but never lower, even if all the electrical gubbins is switched on) The warning light (which works) does not come on ever.
It seems to get worse as the car gets hotter. Today for example it was down to 12volts after being in traffic for a while.
So, the question is, is my alternator on the way out, or is there another explanation?

Thanks in advance

Andy
 

safrane

Member
Messages
16,899
If the Alternator was at fault you would soon loose power from the battery and after a while the whole car would stop. My thoughts are battery related.
 

lozcb

Member
Messages
12,586
OK guys, my 4200 Spyder has developed a quirk (fault?)
Until a recent track event, the voltmeter in the car nearly always ready between 13.5 and 14 volts, sometimes a bit higher. Since that day, it has read between 12.5 and 13.5 volts. Sometimes it will even dip to 12 volts, (but never lower, even if all the electrical gubbins is switched on) The warning light (which works) does not come on ever.
It seems to get worse as the car gets hotter. Today for example it was down to 12volts after being in traffic for a while.
So, the question is, is my alternator on the way out, or is there another explanation?

Thanks in advance

Andy


My guess is that its either a faulty connection , or possibly the regulator playing up , may be your auxillary belt is worn and needs replacing /adjusting


regards loz
 

Andy Marshall

Member
Messages
297
update on this:

I finally got a digital volt meter on the car at the weekend.

Readings over two hours, taken from the battery terminals were as follows:

Engine not running, car only just taken off trickle charger: 12.8 volts

Engine started (cold) Idling : 14.5 volts

Engine left to warm up, idling : 13.7 volts

Engine warm, idling, ALL available electrics turned on : 13.2 volts

Engine warm, 2000rpm, ALL available electrics still on : 13.5 - 13.7 volts

Engine warm, 3000rpm, All available electrics still on : 13.7 volts

Engine warm, idling, All electrics switched off : 13.7 volts

Engine off : 12.4 volts


Throughout all this the volt meter on the dash was reading (sort of) in agreement with the digital one, so I don't think it's the instruments.

Battery is at least 3, and possibly 4 years old.

(All available electrics = Lights, main beam, heated rear window, front and rear fogs, heater fan max, radio on. )

So guys...... Battery or alternator?
 

Parisien

Moderator
Messages
34,927
Hi Andy......why not get a check of the alternator too....but 3-4 yrs old battery for a V8 engine.....must be near end of its life, especially if laid up over many winters or not used weekly during cold spells....so a new battery would be wise, preferably a slightly higher amperage output


P
 

Maser Sod

Member
Messages
1,965
The OEM batteries aren't great, so you could swap it out for something else (e.g. red top gel) for 150 quid or so and see if that helps.

If it does, then you have saved yourself the cost of a trip to the dealership/specialist.

If it does not, then you at least have a decent new battery and can go the garage with the cause narrowed down.
 

lozcb

Member
Messages
12,586
Last year it was actually quite difficult to get hold of the Fiaam Batteries , but Franks right the life is around 4 years max , less id they get laid up for the winters like mine tend to , but i do run them at least once a week regardless , with winter coming on i would do as Pat advises , start with a new battery and work from there, or pop into your local auto electrician and ask him to test the alternator


regards loz
 

Emtee

New Member
Messages
8,446
I'm a bit confused why those readings are being regarded as problematic? They look entirely normal?

The OM states that the battery should read between 10 and 13V with the key in the MAR position; with the engine running it should read 13V or greater.

No harm in changing an aging battery, but it doesn't look from those readings that it's causing any problems?
 

Parisien

Moderator
Messages
34,927
There was an ebay supplier listed once for one of the Bosch range....not sure if its on this thread.....:)


P
 

alexholmes

New Member
Messages
75
I've got a Bosch battery. Dimensions were identical to the genuine battery I replaced. Picked up from halfrauds as I was desperate. I can post the model number if anyone needs...