Gransport Set Up

RW3200

Junior Member
Messages
295
Someone else will know exactly but from memory it's something like:

zero toe - slightly toe in at the front.
about 1/2 a degree of negative camber at the front.

The rear negative camber from FD is less that stock - stock is about 1.5 degrees of negative camber for the rear. I went for just a bit less.

1/64th of an inch is about 0.4mm so I have more like about .75mm I think.

996 turbos like to run loads of front toe out....

Yes, I agree that I have gone quite aggressive at the front and it won't do the tyres any favours but then again I drive almost entirely on Essex 'b' roads so lots of twisty bits.

oh, and the reduced rear negative camber at the has reduced camber thrust and I think there is a bit less bump steer (although I might be imagining that).

I have a lot more confidence in the front getting key'd into the corner now. I can come in on a trailing throttle and then really lean on the outside front and go progressively to full throttle as soon as I passed the apex. Lifting off mid bend just tightens the line. Even on damp roads today it was pretty reassuring. I would like to run a bit more toe on the front and get the roll reduced and get a bit more front -ve camber because I still can't quite feel when I reached the end of the front grip. It could just be:

a. I need to get used to carrying a bit more speed into corners. It will stick it's just no 911 or 360.
b. The excess of frontal roll could be causing a lot of ground level geo/ contact patch changes so that is making the front grip a little bit inconsistent.
c. I haven't actually got it understeering since the set-up yesterday. I realise that I have a very much rear engine'd driving style and perhaps I need to just get on with it ;-)

Just caught on to this thread, very interesting reading and glad you have found a fun setting for your B roads.
I'm not surprised you're not getting any understeer now given the adjustments made, my personal feeling reading this is that you do sound to have a rear engined driving style! :)
Have fun, and please post any further tweeks. (I get the feeling you aren't done yet......)
 

porsche girl

Junior Member
Messages
35
i've done a bit of messing with tyre pressures. From 2 bar to 2.5 bar. (on the front). Purely from a subjective point of view the ultimate grip seems a bit better but the turn in is less sharp. I'm running on pirelli P zero Neros, almost new which may be why they want a bit of carcass stiffness.

i have to say, I really like the skyhook dampers. They actually seem to work! They bump stop tuning is nothing to right home about and I think that the secondary ride could be better but overall (considering the springs used) it's pretty good. In the wet, it's better on 'non' sport. It's a shame that you don't get the throttle response or shifts in 'normal' mode. The car is crying out for a 'damper' button (maybe rather than the ice mode button) so that you can change damper modes without losing the better shift strategy and throttle response...

Next stop on the chassis is going to be front ARB and then some better pads (Pagid are my preference from other cars).
 
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GeoffCapes

Member
Messages
14,000
i've done a bit of messing with tyre pressures. From 2 bar to 2.5 bar. (on the front). Purely from a subjective point of view the ultimate grip seems a bit better but the turn in is less sharp. I'm running on pirelli P zero Neros, almost new which may be why they want a bit of carcass stiffness.

i have to say, I really like the skyhook dampers. They actually seem to work! They bump stop tuning is nothing to right home about and I think that the secondary ride could be better but overall (considering the springs used) it's pretty good. In the wet, it's better on 'non' sport. It's a shame that you don't get the throttle response or shifts in 'normal' mode. The car is crying out for a 'damper' button (maybe rather than the ice mode button) so that you can change damper modes without losing the better shift strategy and throttle response...

Next stop on the chassis is going to be front ARB and then some better pads (Pagid are my preference from other cars).


I've just put Yellow Stuff pads on my 4200, the difference is night and day to what I had on before. They're a bit more dusty, but stop so much better.
 

Contigo

Sponsor
Messages
18,376
i've done a bit of messing with tyre pressures. From 2 bar to 2.5 bar. (on the front). Purely from a subjective point of view the ultimate grip seems a bit better but the turn in is less sharp. I'm running on pirelli P zero Neros, almost new which may be why they want a bit of carcass stiffness.

i have to say, I really like the skyhook dampers. They actually seem to work! They bump stop tuning is nothing to right home about and I think that the secondary ride could be better but overall (considering the springs used) it's pretty good. In the wet, it's better on 'non' sport. It's a shame that you don't get the throttle response or shifts in 'normal' mode. The car is crying out for a 'damper' button (maybe rather than the ice mode button) so that you can change damper modes without losing the better shift strategy and throttle response...

Next stop on the chassis is going to be front ARB and then some better pads (Pagid are my preference from other cars).

double edged sword as in non sport mode in the wet with the same throttle response it would constantly be lighting up the ASR more so than without!!! It's bad enough in non sport mode in the dry let alone the wet!
 

Maser Sod

Member
Messages
1,965
It's a shame that you don't get the throttle response or shifts in 'normal' mode. The car is crying out for a 'damper' button (maybe rather than the ice mode button) so that you can change damper modes without losing the better shift strategy and throttle response...

The FD DBW module mostly addresses this problem.