How long should a throttle pot last?

[GDL]

Hi all,

as I mentioned in another post, I had to go and get my codes read / reset to remove limp mode.
Had a problem recently where it would go into limp with a CEL if I went over a particularly bumpy stretch of road.
Not usually a single bump, but a rough stretch.
Thought it was a dodgy connection, but seems not to be the case
I could usually clear it with a throttle reset, but not Easter weekend, it got a bit persistent.

Having read the codes (I quote):
"Found error codes for throttle acc / potentiometer. Checked system and cancelled codes. Unable to reproduce codes. Will require potentiometer if fault persists."

The thing is, though the throttle pot was replaced in Dec2007, that is only 15000 miles ago.
Surely it should last longer than that?

Apparently Maserati's parts warranty is purely time based - 12 months - and mileage is irrelevant.

Regardless of Maserati's position, am I unreasonable in expecting more than 15k from a part like this?

Thoughts?

Cheers

Gordon

 

[Emtee]

Does sound premature Gordon.

Bill and Boomerang are the resident experts. Might be worth dropping them a PM if you haven't already.

Em.

 

[saintetienne]

Hi Gordon ,

I had similar codes shortly after purchasing my car , after removing pedal pot - dismantling , cleaning , lubricating and checking , making good all connections and checking link to pedal (no slack) light went away . I agree with Emtee and would not expect failure at this age - it is a bosch component , maybe if failure is proven it maybe worth talking to them - I think it is the same item on 3.0 Alfas which do not seem to fail !

cheers

Steve

 

[bill]

It's worth noting I have now done 56k and have never had throttle pot issues or errors.I know this might sound a weird question but have you replaced the throttlebody or upgrade to a contactless one?

 

[GDL]

Bill,

It was replaced by the previous owner - pukka Maserati parts via Meridien (I have all the invoices).

2007 was a busy year
Feb (40k miles) Throttle body was replaced.
Sep (45k miles) Engine ECU & Immobiliser ECU
Dec (47k miles) Throttle pedal potentiometer

Just before we got it (late summer 2009 with 58k miles) it also had discs, pads, rear wishbone, water pump and clutch.

We thought with all this done that it should be pretty well sorted.

Cheers

Gordon

 

[GDL]

Steve,

I also find it does hunt a little at idle - probably less than 50 rpm, especially when cold and the responsiveness is not what it should be for that first mm or so of pedal movement.

If its either the body or the pot I'm very disappointed in the OEM part quality given the mileage that the car has done since they were replaced.

Could it be as simple as getting the pot (and/or throttle body) out and cleaning them?
Have you got any pics / advice?

Cheers

Gordon

 

[lozcb]

Steve,

I also find it does hunt a little at idle - probably less than 50 rpm, especially when cold and the responsiveness is not what it should be for that first mm or so of pedal movement.

If its either the body or the pot I'm very disappointed in the OEM part quality given the mileage that the car has done since they were replaced.

Could it be as simple as getting the pot (and/or throttle body) out and cleaning them?
Have you got any pics / advice?

Cheers

Gordon

For sure Gordon , they are well renowned for loose intermittent electrical connections , give them a **** good clean with electrical cleaner spray, , hope it works for you

regards loz

 

[bill]

You can have a look at the throttlebody and see if the butterfly moves freely. Is should be resting at partly open and if you press it to fully close and fully open, it should snap back freely to the rest position (MAKE SURE THE IGNITION IS OFF WHEN YOU DO THIS). You can give it a clean with a bit of carb cleaner but unfortunately if there are issue with the movement you won't make much difference. I am not sure about cleaning the padal pot as I never had issues with it in 56k!

Cheers

 

[davy83]

I had a pedal potentiometer fail after 19k miles and that was the one from the factory so yes they can fail quite quickly.

The dead spot around the idle mark is a tell tale for sure, especially if the car hesitates just a little as you reduce the throttle form a little to none. There is a thread some where on joining the two output wires which may help. One thing that got mine working for a while at least (another 10k miles!) was to loosen the two bolts holding the potentiometer and re tighten them with the sensor pressed in the clockwise direction (viewed from below in the pedal area) This offsets the physical position of pedal idle setting on the sensor and can help. You need to do a recalibration which is also listed here some where.
If your ECU is giving the pedal position sensor errors then it is unlikely to be the throttle body. Was the throttle body replaced or just the pots? These don't last long either and you are much better opting for the contact less upgrade if possible.

Hope this helps

 

[bill]

thats a good sugestion Davy. Just a little clarification tho: its the throttlebody ECU which generates the error codes acociated with the throttlepot and the throttlebody

cheers

 

[saintetienne]

Hi Gordon ,
All the above is good advice and pretty much what i did - including checking push fit connectors and refitting them with a smear of vaseline etc , also I removed the pedal pot and removed push on round plastic cover to visually check wires inside and gave a squirt of GT85 for good measure , when refitting I checked link rod was tight , did reset procedure and touch wood all has been well .

cheers

Steve