That's the way I would go if I had to do it again, would need a thin wrench to hold the front ball joint, the first time I hacksawed them in half after failing to unlock the wishbone locknut, undid the ball joint end and the rod came undone by itself lolPresumably the easiest thing is to remove the long stud that locates the tie rod helm joint through the hub carrier from the ball joint, then wind it off the wishbone....?
cheers
Not sure, what I do know is when the ball joint end is in situ the arm doesn't line up with the wishbone at the other end, if I remember I had to jack the wishbone up so it would line up and screw in.Both sides have been done recently...but the FD ( waterman?) replacement has failed on the drivers side. 3K miles old. Just done chassis & 4 wheel alignment too....Boring.
One end or the other has to clear either the stud or the adjuster...Are you saying the hub carrier can be wound out more easily than the stud removed from the ball joint @Zep....? I know ball joint isn’t tapered but not sure of the architecture of it beyond this tbh....I’d be gutted to damage a boot doing them too....
Wow...That’s a bit worrying.Funnily enough my fd joints had slight play at the last mot, they haven't been on there 12 months.
Indeed, still wearing the chalk where he marked them up, I'm now thinking used arms fitted with Superformance bushes may be the way to go. I have access to a press so I can do those.Wow...That’s a bit worrying.
Good call...If it helps I'm pretty sure the FD bearings are sourced from McGill Motorsports in Scotland.
Good to see ya Dave, Linky Link?I'd just stick with the original spec PTFE lined F.A.G bearings from Germany, they last lots more than 3 years..
Plain rod end type bearings are useless on road cars! hence the reason were always changing the drop links on the front roll bar
There about 25 quid each from your local bearing supplier
Dave
You found them then? A bit disappointing from FD though, marketed as an upgrade you would expect them to put their money where their mouth was.Good call...
I think I might get e refund out of FD but they aren’t being very helpful, or gracious about it. They are refusing to believe their part is failed, refusing to accept three independent assessments that say “ track rod end”....and now I find it’s not even a £15 part..
Hilarious!
Both sides have been done recently...but the FD ( waterman?) replacement has failed on the drivers side. 3K miles old. Just done chassis & 4 wheel alignment too....Boring.
One end or the other has to clear either the stud or the adjuster...Are you saying the hub carrier can be wound out more easily than the stud removed from the ball joint @Zep....? I know ball joint isn’t tapered but not sure of the architecture of it beyond this tbh....I’d be gutted to damage a boot doing them too....
Yes indeed...there is sufficient movement to release the turn buckle at the swing arm.Yes, the hub will move out more easily I suspect. I’ve not seen one of these, but I suspect it would be easiest to wind out the turnbuckle until you can remove the spherical bearing from the hub joint.
Is that the whole story though..?The replacement bearings for the original toe adjuster are SKF GE15C.
A bit disappointing from FD though, marketed as an upgrade you would expect them to put their money where their mouth was.