NIT cable Hirose GT17
To make a new NIT cable the following parts are required:
To extend the original NIT cable make a new cable with a header at one end instead:
In both cases make a straight through cable, i.e. pin1 to pin1, with a max. cable OD of 8mm.
I used Lapp Kabel 0034510 which is 8.3mm and it was fine. Total cost approx. £15.
The centre terminals are fiddly bu**ers to crimp & insert but if not able an auto-electrician should oblige.
You can add a ferrite core to the cable if you like but it's not been needed.
Screen Loom Connectors TE Connectivity .070
Having been quoted £25 (+shipping +VAT) for the male plug (which was "
strange") original parts were sourced instead.
I used AWG 18 cores as had a bit left over from some other cabling. Total cable cost approx. £5.
Edit
If you want to the move the NIT too you can also extend both the ISO connection A and the white loom connection.
Highlighted green & red respectively below.
NIT Loom Connector TE Connectivity MQS
Ignore that the housing shown is black - it's a generic image.
You may have to fettle the original header at the back of the NIT to fit though.
One corner at the front edge is square rather than angled. Circled in blue above for comparison.
Carefully shave that back to an angle and the original loom connector still fits securely.
It will be obvious what needs to be done when the connectors are offered up.
Although an 18 pin header only 9 pins are used - 2, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12, 16, 17, & 18.
As with the NIT cable header, wires were soldered to the pins, heat shrunk, hot glued and taped for rigidity.
Total cable cost approx. £12
Summary
By using headers to make extension cables, without cutting or splicing original wiring, the process is easily reversible if required.
Both screen and NIT now reside in the boot where the CD changer used to be. Freeing up space up front for new equipment.
I haven't experienced any issues with signal integrity - in terms of strength nor interference.
Have also added a converter module to process NIT image signals for display on the replacement head-unit.
Together with a bridged, non-shorting, 2 pole rotary switch to give direct control over several functions of the original screen.
On/Off, Trip A/B, Trip Reset, etc. Wires are soldered as follows:
Note - all connector parts bought from
Mouser which offered a fantastic level of service.