4200 Radio & Satnav upgrade

TimR

Member
Messages
1,704
Remove the armrest bolster, unbolt the seat back and all will be easily accessed...what you do with your cabling after that is your choice- Id probabaly go behind the rear quarter panel which the mids are mounted in...?
 

MrJoshua

Member
Messages
175
Remove the armrest bolster, unbolt the seat back and all will be easily accessed...what you do with your cabling after that is your choice- Id probabaly go behind the rear quarter panel which the mids are mounted in...?
Thanks!!

Is that photo showing the C pillar and under the rear shelf, from within the cabin, with the seat back removed?
 

FIFTY

Member
Messages
2,290
Thanks!!

Is that photo showing the C pillar and under the rear shelf, from within the cabin, with the seat back removed?
Correct. The seat back is held in place by 4x bolts while the squab is held in place by a large clip retainer device (one on each side) you need to carefully leaver it upward without damaging the underside of the squab
 

MrJoshua

Member
Messages
175
Here is the howto https://www.sportsmaserati.com/index.php?threads/rear-parcel-shelf-removal.351/

Worth taking out the parcel shelf to thoroughly clean the back window/brake light area, remove any dead flies, dust, etc.
Wires run through the rear bulkhead and power loom made up.

Need to get it all attached to the stereo tomorrow.

Oldskool Phoenix Gold Tantrum 400.4 amplifier and JL Audio 12” sub in a custom box.

Amping the front MB Quart Components too :)

77212

Who needs boot space?
 

MrJoshua

Member
Messages
175
All wired up and car put back together yesterday.

Just need to slightly modify the side panel in the boot so I can put it back with the wires poking through the bottom.

Sounds SO much better... Clearly, it can go louder, but it just sounds so much fuller at any volume now. I'm glad I decided to amp the front components too. Since the back of the car was apart, I thought I might as well. Just bought an ISO harness adapter and connected the speaker wires from the amp to that, then connected the OE ISO plug to that, therefore disconnecting the four rear speakers and amping the front.
 

MrJoshua

Member
Messages
175
How does the sound get from your boot to the cabin?
Eb
Low frequencies are pretty good at getting through stuff. Even at low volume, bass is present and doesn’t sound like it’s coming from the boot.

This car does need a sub that can move some air though as the boot is pretty well sealed.
 

StickyPlastics

Junior Member
Messages
70
These are pretty good and fit under pass seat and have a remote bass level control.


Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

FIFTY

Member
Messages
2,290
These are pretty good and fit under pass seat and have a remote bass level control.


Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
They will have to be super thin to fit under the seat there is not a lot of clearance

I ended up installing mine under the parcel shelf just behind the 3rd level brake light... Sounds great
 

Sablewolf

Junior Member
Messages
98
Hi Gooner,

I've decided to replace my chinese Android PC with the same pioneer unit you have. Just waiting for the extension lead to arrive.

I've sorted out most of the wiring back to original (and note your tip on swapping over the red/yellow leads for the pioneer).

I think you said you didn't bother with the connection to the handbrake? Not sure which of the two wires I should connect to...

Did you leave (number 10 & 11 blue/white mentioned on page 3 of the Pioneer installation manual) connected or did you disconnect them?

Do you have a reversing camera? I can see the phono connector for the camera input but my camera also has another wire - I cant find the instructions for that now (!) I think that will connect to the violet/white lead on the pioneer as the 'reverse gear signal input' but not sure!
 

Gooner

Centenary Club
Messages
203
Hi Gooner,

I've decided to replace my chinese Android PC with the same pioneer unit you have. Just waiting for the extension lead to arrive.

I've sorted out most of the wiring back to original (and note your tip on swapping over the red/yellow leads for the pioneer).

I think you said you didn't bother with the connection to the handbrake? Not sure which of the two wires I should connect to...

Did you leave (number 10 & 11 blue/white mentioned on page 3 of the Pioneer installation manual) connected or did you disconnect them?

Do you have a reversing camera? I can see the phono connector for the camera input but my camera also has another wire - I cant find the instructions for that now (!) I think that will connect to the violet/white lead on the pioneer as the 'reverse gear signal input' but not sure!
Hi, hope I can help after all the help you gave me :).

I did connect the lead to the handbrake in the end, it is pretty much essential if you want to use all the setup features of the Pioneer. I wasn’t sure which of the two wires to connect to, as I couldn’t work out which was the +ve side. In the end I tried one, it was the wrong one so I unclipped the fastening (carefully), put a bit of tape around it and tried the other one, which was successful. You can tell quickly if it is working because some of the setup options grey out if the handbrake is down/off.

I don’t have a reversing camera yet. I’ve got to take some time to work out a route from the Spyder boot. Probably not hard but had a few distractions from real life in recent weeks.

I can’t remember the blue/white wire, I’ll take a look at the instructions and my photos to remind myself, then post here.
 

Sablewolf

Junior Member
Messages
98
Hi, hope I can help after all the help you gave me :).

I did connect the lead to the handbrake in the end, it is pretty much essential if you want to use all the setup features of the Pioneer. I wasn’t sure which of the two wires to connect to, as I couldn’t work out which was the +ve side. In the end I tried one, it was the wrong one so I unclipped the fastening (carefully), put a bit of tape around it and tried the other one, which was successful. You can tell quickly if it is working because some of the setup options grey out if the handbrake is down/off.

I don’t have a reversing camera yet. I’ve got to take some time to work out a route from the Spyder boot. Probably not hard but had a few distractions from real life in recent weeks.

I can’t remember the blue/white wire, I’ll take a look at the instructions and my photos to remind myself, then post here.
Thanks Gooner - much appreciated
 

Gooner

Centenary Club
Messages
203
Thanks Gooner - much appreciated
Just refreshed my memory about 10 and 11 on the ‘Power Cord’, 5* and 6* as they mark them in the instructions. I decided I didn’t have an auto aerial so didn’t connect them together. I think it’s if you have one of those aerials that extend when you turn the stereo on. Seems to work anyway, not had any problems.

Have you tried using one of those cheap FM/DAB signal splitters? I couldn’t be bothered to remove all the windscreen trim to fit a proper one, quite a faff on the Spyder. The signal from the splitter is definitely not as good as the DAB aerial I bought, but I was surprised how well it works. FM seems fine.
 

mjheathcote

Centenary Club
Messages
7,742
Just refreshed my memory about 10 and 11 on the ‘Power Cord’, 5* and 6* as they mark them in the instructions. I decided I didn’t have an auto aerial so didn’t connect them together. I think it’s if you have one of those aerials that extend when you turn the stereo on. Seems to work anyway, not had any problems.

Have you tried using one of those cheap FM/DAB signal splitters? I couldn’t be bothered to remove all the windscreen trim to fit a proper one, quite a faff on the Spyder. The signal from the splitter is definitely not as good as the DAB aerial I bought, but I was surprised how well it works. FM seems fine.
I have a passive splitter in my 20 year old Mitsubishi Pinin, using the A pillar pull out coat hanger. Works surprising well with very few dropouts and I certainly wouldn't go to the trouble of a dedicated DAB aerial.