castrol 10w60 8 litres for £52 delivered

[beau]

dont know if this is any good to anyone on here, iv done alot of research on this oil and it does seem to be very good, it has a very good cold cranking viscosity

euro car parts.co.uk using code test31 (comes to £52.xx) delivered (2x 4L cans)

 

[drellis]

agreed good oil, used to put it in my esprit, though my 3200 just gets selenia, the castrol might be better but hey ho.

 

[beau]

yeah well this oil has much better cold starting protection (thinner when cold) is higher spec'd, longer lasting and less likely to shear so knowing that i wont touch selenia, might be whats recommended but oil technology has some what advanced since 1998

 

[saintetienne]

Mine has had Selenia in it since new - not sure if it is the best oil out there but there are a few different opinions on this - might be time to get your ear defenders in !

 

[lozcb]

Cue Nigelo and V Bird



regards loz

 

[MAF260]

oil technology has some what advanced since 1998

But the design of the engine hasn't changed. As Loz says, cue Nigelo to explain all.......

 

[beau]

But the design of the engine hasn't changed. As Loz says, cue Nigelo to explain all.......

a more advanced oil will still offer better protection

 

[MAF260]

The use of Selenia Racing Oil in the 3200 has been debated numerous times at great length. I'm no expert and am not going to enter into a technical argument with anyone, but would never have used anything else in my 3200. Have a bit of a search around the internet for this subject, Nigelo (who appears to be an expert) explains it very well. IMO the cars were subject to a huge amount of R&D with Selenia Racing Oil at great expense - if this oil is definitely known to work then why use anything else. Stories abound of engine issues, crankshaft end float etc. - why take the chance when repairs or replacement is so costly?

 

[NickP]

I disagree with a lot of this must always use Selenia oil stuff, I agree oil has improved since the engine was designed considerably. I also feel that this oil being designed specifically for this engine is also nonsense. Fiat own Selenia. If you were on a long trip to southern europe and you had no oil and the oil light came on what would you do? Tow it back to the UK or fill it with something with the same viscous properties/rating? Do the oils that were used in 1950s F1 cars still exist? What do they put in those cars now?

This discussion has been going round in circles for many years. My car gets whatever oil the Ferrari/Maserati garage who service it puts in it... which is probably Selenia, but seriously now the car is out of manufacturers warranty, and as long as it gets changed annually, who cares?

I'll get my coat.

 

[Fat Arnie]

Stolen from another thread, this tells you how antiquated the spec opf Selenia Racing 10/60 is. If you buy Selenia, you are a victim of marketing. If you understand what is below, you are far wiser.

Oil and other 3200GT liquids
Having given some input into the antifreeze thread in the tech fixes forum, I thought I'd express an opinion here for your comments:

It seems that all of the specified fluids for use in a 3200GT are a little old in terms of spec. Petronas I fear are making top $ selling us products which were technically superseded years before the 3200GT even went into production.

Which brings us to Selenia Racing 10-60 engine oil, in particular the API SG - CD - CCMC - G5 requirements

What does this long string of alpha numerics mean?

Well the API letter S means the oil is specced for use in a spark ignition engine.
The G indicates the grade of the oil - from around 1985. Since then other grades have been added - 'SN' is the current top grade, which recently replaced 'SM' and 'SL'. 'SH' will be found on most expensive oils, and almost all the new synthetics. It's basically an upgraded 'SG' oil which has been tested more sternly.

The CD was Introduced in 1955 for certain naturally aspirated and turbo engines. Its way obsolete.

The CCMC G5 standard is a pre 1996 standard - Oils are graded G1 to G5. ACEA replaced CCMC in 1996. An A3 or B3 ACEA rating exceeds CCMC G5 in terms of grading.


So in reality any 10-60 grade oil with one of the following ratings from each category will offer every bit the protection of Selenia Racing 10/60.

API - SG, SH,SL,SM, SN
API - SH, SL, SM , SN
ACEA - CD, CE, CF, CG
ACEA - A3, B3

In real terms you can use the follwoing with no detremental effect:
Castrol Edge 10/60 ACEA A3/B3/B4 API SL/CF
Millers Oils CFS 10w-60 Competition - API SL/CF and ACEA A3/A4
Mobil 1 Extended Life 10-60 - API SM / SL / SJ / CF ACEA A3 / B3, A3 / B4
Shell Helix Ultra Racing 10W-60 - API SM / CF ACEA A3 / B3 / B4

My own 3200 has had Mobil 1 Extended Life 10-60 - API SM / SL / SJ / CF ACEA A3 / B3, A3 / B4 in it for the last two oil changes, and is fine.

 

[drellis]

i only put selenia in for resale value, i have a low mileage 3200ac and always feel prospective buyers might be put off by different oil being used

 

[Fat Arnie]

That's like still leaving storage heaters and avocado bathroom suites in your house for resale value!

 

[drellis]

Most people who buy cars do not have the knowledge and enthusiasm we have. A general search for most people when buying a car leads them to compare what's been done against what the owners manual says should have been done. I think the selenia is perfectly up to the job, I don't track it, and for track or spirited use changing the oil every thousand or after every track day is far more important than which 10 .60 goes in

 

[Gixerboy]

Think I'll try 10-60 in the QP next service, been using shell helix 5-40 which although recommended,in my mind is too thin for a big V8. )

 

[drellis]

not sure that a good move, a lot more knowledgable people will be around soon but its not just a case of thicker oil being better, as i understand in a 10/60, effectively the oil is a 10 "weight" when cold and "60" weight/viscosity around the engines operating temp. older and turbo engined cars often had 10/60 mainly for the 60 weight at operating temp (turbo seals/thought to give a bit more leeway when engines not produced to as fine tolerances). The slight risk using a 10/60 in engine built for 5/40 is that the oil when cold may be too "thick" to provide adequate protection until the engine is up to operating temp - a 5/60 (if it exists would be great )

 

[drellis]

saying all this i have just bought 8 litres of the stuff to stick in my alfa 166 v6

 

[Emtee]

In the UK you don't really need to worry about 5W or 10W, as these are cold ratings down at minus 20 to 25 degrees. Often overlooked are the hot ratings, which in the UK with our traffic are just as (possibly even more) important. Running very hot multigrade oil is the typical scenario for the viscosity improvers to break down ruining the designed properties of the oil and opening the engine up to hot wear.