Clutch change cost?

[safrane]

My first 2004my 4200 had 52% wear when first purchased at 52k miles... after 3 years and an additional 21k it was only up to 71%...and to be honest it engaged wonderfully...so as Ewan states drive and enjoy.

 

[conaero]

Just make sure you have recovery breakdown where you don't get charged after the first 10 miles then just drive it till it goes, as the others state, it could be years.

Look at it this way, if the tangs were going to go, they would have gone already so you have a strong clutch there. You could change it early with a new one and then the new cover fails sub 20k miles.

 

[Contigo]

Mines done 31,000 now measures 60% wear. Do you think I've got much left in it? I've got to go to London this month and obviously a lot of stop start traffic wont do it any favors. I'm planning on chopping it in next April and dont really want to pay £2k for a new clutch so might leave her at home.

45k out of a MCS clutch. Mines just been done. They are much harder wearing and durable than the CC clutches.

 

[StuartW]

45k out of a MCS clutch. Mines just been done. They are much harder wearing and durable than the CC clutches.

Agreed, the first one on mine was replaced @ 44k

 

[Gixerboy]

Agreed, the first one on mine was replaced @ 44k

Same as the F1 QP, duel friction plate same part number on Euro spares

Cheers

 

[rockits]

My 2007 4200 is on original clutch with 13k miles. Not sure what wear % is though but I'll have a look on last McGrath service paperwork.

 

[mjheathcote]

My 2007 4200 is on original clutch with 13k miles. Not sure what wear % is though but I'll have a look on last McGrath service paperwork.

As is mine, now just short of 17K miles.
Clutch reading was 66% when I bought her at 11.5K miles.
If the wear is linear, in theory the clutch wear now would be at 98%...can't say it is feels any different now from when I bought her.

 

[ManInBlack]

I've heard that generally you start to have problems with selecting reverse in the first instance.

 

[Marco07]

I've done 64,000 miles so far in my 2007 QP auto and, without wishing to tempt fate, it is going like a dream still. (I clocked up another 700 miles this weekend.)

I have a proper service every year and had the variators etc., sorted at 35k and generally look after it well. So, what can I expect to be faced with in the next year or so? All and any advice is appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[StuartW]

I've done 64,000 miles so far in my 2007 QP auto and, without wishing to tempt fate, it is going like a dream still. (I clocked up another 700 miles this weekend.)

I have a proper service every year and had the variators etc., sorted at 35k and generally look after it well. So, what can I expect to be faced with in the next year or so? All and any advice is appreciated.

Thanks.

How are your brake discs holding up?

 

[Marco07]

Discs have been skimmed twice.

Everything else seems pretty good. Anything on the horizon I should be expecting with a QPV approaching 70k miles?

 

[philw696]

Skimmed twice they must be on minimum thickness or below for sure.
Was that done by a Dealer or specialist ?

 

[Marco07]

What am I saying - of course not skimmed twice. I'm getting confused. QP skimmed once and Biturbo skimmed once also.

 

[Spartacus]

Matt , you were doing burn outs. Thats why it went ;P

To be fair mine collapsed on the first GS I had, and yes, that did have a DBW but it happens so ofter and hardly anyone runs the DBW anymore.

 

[Spartacus]

Matt also had a Spyder that was well over 80% worn and still going strong . And Newton had the same . Then it got stolen and no doubt ragged to death and is still in it as far as i know . Leave the clutch till it brakes is the moral .

 

[Mr K]

The QP is more than a 4200 due to the way the cats are fastened to the manifolds - the bolts are pointing upwards so access to them is severely restricted, and of course they are rusted solid. If they designed the bolts to face the other way round you could shave a couple of hours off the job.

I strongly advise to have the flywheel, clutch, F1 sensor, magnet, release bearing, spigot bearing and fasteners all changed at the same time - the last thing you want is to be back in there a short time afterwards. I also advise to change the engine mounts whilst the bell housing and cats are off - but make sure they don't break off the subframe bolts as they'll be stuck fast!

Finally, make sure the workshop have the correct diagnostic equipment - they need to perform the DEIS calibration and the PIS auto set as well as the other usual set up parameters that come with a CC clutch change.

I spoke to a specialist who confirmed the clutch was probably on its way out. I'd rather change it a bit early and choose where/when, etc rather than break down and get it trailered to the nearest dealer.

Got a quote from them:
£2100+VAT for the clutch change, covering the clutch, F1 sensor, magnet, release bearing, spigot bearing. Will supply a flywheel if required at additional cost.
It also needs a service. Last done Dec 2014, so may as well have it done by them a little early.
All fluids and 2 year service £800+VAT
May need more doing, such as lambda sensors, etc.

Are these figures about right from an excellent specialist with a strong reputation?

 

[StuartW]

That sounds in the ball park to me

 

[voicey]

That is a very good price - there is over £1,500 (+VAT) worth of parts in that clutch quote. You'd be mad not to put the flywheel in at the same time. If they advise that the flywheel is good than make sure they measured the flatness of the surface and can quote you the run out in mm. A visual check is not good enough and your clutch will look like this one in no time at all if the flywheel is dished (note how the lower clutch is worn badly on one side - the one that faces the flywheel).

Another thing I forgot to mention was to change the clutch bleed screw (part #121699). It's only a couple of quid but I've seen a few weap out F1 fluid.

Make sure they have an SD3 to run the DEIS calibration and PIS set up. It can only be done with an up to date SD3 and the special cabling - none of the aftermarket diagnostic offerings have this function.

 

[Mr K]

That is a very good price - there is over £1,500 (+VAT) worth of parts in that clutch quote. You'd be mad not to put the flywheel in at the same time. If they advise that the flywheel is good than make sure they measured the flatness of the surface and can quote you the run out in mm. A visual check is not good enough and your clutch will look like this one in no time at all if the flywheel is dished (note how the lower clutch is worn badly on one side - the one that faces the flywheel).

Another thing I forgot to mention was to change the clutch bleed screw (part #121699). It's only a couple of quid but I've seen a few weap out F1 fluid.

Make sure they have an SD3 to run the DEIS calibration and PIS set up. It can only be done with an up to date SD3 and the special cabling - none of the aftermarket diagnostic offerings have this function.

Thanks Aldous. They have flywheels in stock and the latest diagnostic kit. Been in the business 20-odd years and have a good reputation here. Should be fine.