QP 4.7S Air con compressor replacement in 2 hours

B16 ONX

Junior Member
Messages
95
Hello everyone
Not bragging, not boasting but I managed to change the AC compressor in just over 2 hours this weekend.
The reason for this post? Simple, I looked up this job to see how bad my day was going to be & everything I read suggested an 8 hour, exhaust manifold removal job. As a result I booked myself the whole day to do it & was very happy when it was off the ramp a couple of hours later. As a result I wanted to share my experience with you all to give people in a similar situation the confidence to do it on their own. Quickly!
I did search for something similar but couldn't find anything, hence this post. If it already exists then please feel free to delete/move.

Tools required: Ratchet, 10mm socket, 10mm & 15mm spanner, 6mm hex socket, 5mm hex socket, 6mm hex bit, large phillips screw driver. Optional: Glue
Replacement compressor, new o rings
1: De-gass the system. I went to a friends garage who took out just under 500gms.
2: Raise car. I was lucky to have access to a ramp but it could be done on the floor.
3: Remove lower engine tray, 3x 10mm bolts at rear & two large phillips either side. Compressor is now right in front of you, very easy access.
4: 15mm spanner onto tensioner & pull the belt. Watch the direction of the spanner & push/pull accordingly to release tension on belt. Remove belt from AC & power steering pump. I left belt on the other pullies.
5: Using 6mm hex socket crack off lower & top bolts holding compressor to block
6: Remove pipes from rear of compressor. This is where I saw the reason people removed the manifold. It's quite close to the pipes & unable to get a normal socket & ratchet in to remove the bolt. So I used a 6mm hex bit, not a socket, just the actual bit on it's own. I then used the 10mm spanner to remove it. In hindsight, I would have put some glue on it to stay in place as it fell out twice. Not superglue, just some basic bonding agent to help keep it in place.
7: If you follow the ac pipe up from the compressor you'll see a 5mm bolt holding it to the head. Remove the bolt.
8: Remove both pipes from the rear of the compressor. Catch the o rings.
9: With the pipes out of the way you'll see the rear mounting 6mm bolt. Remove.
10: Remove top bolt then the bottom bolt. Be ready to catch the compressor! Caution: There is a spacer on the top bolt, between the compressor & block. I didn't know until I heard something drop!
You should now be about an hour in to the job with the compressor on the bench/floor.
Refit is the reversal of the above, mount the compressor loosely with the spacer on the top bolt. Once they are all run in a bit, tighten. Refit the pipes on the rear using new seals & tighten the connector using the small 6mm bolt. Secure the pipe back to the head & refit the belt. Fit the under tray & it's done.
If you have fitted a new compressor, just confirm it has some oil in it already, other wise add some oil when re gassing the system.
You should be about two hours in & the job is finished.

I've attached a couple of pictures, one of the pipe bolt & one of the spacer that I dropped. These are the only two things to watch out for, everything else was straight forward.

Good luck guys, I hope you find it as easy as I did?
 

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SE_123

Member
Messages
419
This is even better if you are getting paid by the hour. 6hrs of sipping tea for the smart mechanic.
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
34,688
Well done, it’s not an easy job. Add in degass and regass and your at 3hrs which is what we book for the job.

You have been lucky though, there are some nasty bolts that if the round are a nightmare to then get out, most noticeably the rear upper one.

As for the 8he quote that’s for a 4200 with the stupid full under heat belly shield. Later ones have a half shield which makes it simpler.

If you have the full belly one, it is indeed manifolds off and I recon 8hrs isn’t enough, it’s nearer 10hrs.
 

Andy4200

Member
Messages
149
Or you can cheat with the 4200, as I did, and make a removable section of the heat shield to allow access to the compressor.
 

mowlas

Member
Messages
1,743
Hello everyone
Not bragging, not boasting but I managed to change the AC compressor in just over 2 hours this weekend.
The reason for this post? Simple, I looked up this job to see how bad my day was going to be & everything I read suggested an 8 hour, exhaust manifold removal job. As a result I booked myself the whole day to do it & was very happy when it was off the ramp a couple of hours later. As a result I wanted to share my experience with you all to give people in a similar situation the confidence to do it on their own. Quickly!
I did search for something similar but couldn't find anything, hence this post. If it already exists then please feel free to delete/move.

Tools required: Ratchet, 10mm socket, 10mm & 15mm spanner, 6mm hex socket, 5mm hex socket, 6mm hex bit, large phillips screw driver. Optional: Glue
Replacement compressor, new o rings
1: De-gass the system. I went to a friends garage who took out just under 500gms.
2: Raise car. I was lucky to have access to a ramp but it could be done on the floor.
3: Remove lower engine tray, 3x 10mm bolts at rear & two large phillips either side. Compressor is now right in front of you, very easy access.
4: 15mm spanner onto tensioner & pull the belt. Watch the direction of the spanner & push/pull accordingly to release tension on belt. Remove belt from AC & power steering pump. I left belt on the other pullies.
5: Using 6mm hex socket crack off lower & top bolts holding compressor to block
6: Remove pipes from rear of compressor. This is where I saw the reason people removed the manifold. It's quite close to the pipes & unable to get a normal socket & ratchet in to remove the bolt. So I used a 6mm hex bit, not a socket, just the actual bit on it's own. I then used the 10mm spanner to remove it. In hindsight, I would have put some glue on it to stay in place as it fell out twice. Not superglue, just some basic bonding agent to help keep it in place.
7: If you follow the ac pipe up from the compressor you'll see a 5mm bolt holding it to the head. Remove the bolt.
8: Remove both pipes from the rear of the compressor. Catch the o rings.
9: With the pipes out of the way you'll see the rear mounting 6mm bolt. Remove.
10: Remove top bolt then the bottom bolt. Be ready to catch the compressor! Caution: There is a spacer on the top bolt, between the compressor & block. I didn't know until I heard something drop!
You should now be about an hour in to the job with the compressor on the bench/floor.
Refit is the reversal of the above, mount the compressor loosely with the spacer on the top bolt. Once they are all run in a bit, tighten. Refit the pipes on the rear using new seals & tighten the connector using the small 6mm bolt. Secure the pipe back to the head & refit the belt. Fit the under tray & it's done.
If you have fitted a new compressor, just confirm it has some oil in it already, other wise add some oil when re gassing the system.
You should be about two hours in & the job is finished.

I've attached a couple of pictures, one of the pipe bolt & one of the spacer that I dropped. These are the only two things to watch out for, everything else was straight forward.

Good luck guys, I hope you find it as easy as I did?

Impressive and thank you for sharing.

I’ve also found that if it’s the front end of the compressor that is problematic i.e. pulley, pulley bearings or clutch, then just that part of the compressor can be changed. Had mine done quite a few miles ago and still working well.

However with your labour-cost-saving approach, it would be better to replace the whole thing.
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
34,688
With regards to the front pulley, it’s usual for the bearing to spin in the housing and eat away the front casting so not repairable.

Sportsitalia do a fixed price for the GT/QP of £595 plus vat parts, labour, seals and gas.