Spyder Roof Repair/Maintenance

[Omar]

The roof function on Doris was in need of some TLC, it stalled halfway on opening and crashed into the windscreen frame on closing, plus the roof frame was causing the classic wear just above the side windows, took it to Hoodtech in Chester and very pleased with the work.

HoodTech Convertible Roof Specialists

HoodTech are specialists in car hood installation & electrical roof repairs.

hoodtech.co.uk

They part stripped the roof from the frame, added in new tie straps and elastic, reinstated, and the difference is light and day better, really pleased with the result and sharing here as I’ve seen this issue on most of the cars I looked at before buying mine, so hopefully useful to other owners.

While it was with them got them to do a reproof as well.

Hoodtech are based in Chester, we dropped the car off, had a couple of days enjoying the city and restaurants, great first road trip for the year, shame about the rain!

 

[RoaryRati]

Good to know - a trip to the Hood Guys in Birmingham is on my to do list to check out mine - but if they can't fix it (as they have in the past, although not any mechanical issues) then I will give them a go.

 

[Superflyguy]

The roof on my Spyder is in excellent mechanical and cosmetic condition. But, it would be great to know if there is any suggested maintenance to keep it in top condition.

What causes the wear above the windows? Anything one can do in advance to stop it from happening? Prevention better than the cure and all that..

Pic of mine just for fun

Cheers

Guy

 

[RodTungsten]

The roof function on Doris was in need of some TLC, it stalled halfway on opening and crashed into the windscreen frame on closing, plus the roof frame was causing the classic wear just above the side windows, took it to Hoodtech in Chester and very pleased with the work.

HoodTech Convertible Roof Specialists

HoodTech are specialists in car hood installation & electrical roof repairs.

hoodtech.co.uk

They part stripped the roof from the frame, added in new tie straps and elastic, reinstated, and the difference is light and day better, really pleased with the result and sharing here as I’ve seen this issue on most of the cars I looked at before buying mine, so hopefully useful to other owners.

Thanks for this. Trepidation each time we operate the roof on our Spyder so will plan a trip up there. We lived in Parkgate for several years so an opportunity to visit old friends in the area.

 

[Nibby]

Trepidation each time we operate the roof on our Spyder

Know the feeling.
They do seem to have a mind of their own but each time it’s acted up it’s been an easy fix.
I don’t like the noise it’s making just before it drops into horseshoe hole when lowering it. I’ve been told it’s the elastic that goes on the back end (back window end opposed to front windscreen end) and it can’t be replaced.

 

[Gooner]

From my experience, 2 main things to check regularly are the elastic webbing and lubricating the main pivot and latching points.

I think when the webbing weakens, the roof above the windows can rub against the roof bar that is not pulled fully back when opening the roof.

 

[DLax69]

From my experience, 2 main things to check regularly are the elastic webbing and lubricating the main pivot and latching points.

I think when the webbing weakens, the roof above the windows can rub against the roof bar that is not pulled fully back when opening the roof.

Exactly. And mine came like that.

 

[RoaryRati]

Thanks for this. Trepidation each time we operate the roof on our Spyder so will plan a trip up there. We lived in Parkgate for several years so an opportunity to visit old friends in the area.

The 'mechanics' on my roof used to be a bit unreliable on opening/closing but since SI worked on it two or three years ago it's been fine (and it's used a lot - roof is always down unless it's raining) - and they've warned me about the rear 'pins' in the body of the car, so I carry spares.

 

[Gooner]

Know the feeling.
They do seem to have a mind of their own but each time it’s acted up it’s been an easy fix.
I don’t like the noise it’s making just before it drops into horseshoe hole when lowering it. I’ve been told it’s the elastic that goes on the back end (back window end opposed to front windscreen end) and it can’t be replaced.

Here’s how I fixed my elastic straps, which I think may be the ones you are referring to. Apols if I misunderstood.

The roof would stick at around this point on opening. It would carry on a little more but would clearly be stuck against something.

The problem is the cross bar connected to the bracket which is vertical in this picture.

It pivots freely but is actually supposed to be pulled backwards during the opening procedure. In fact if you stop the roof opening at this point and push it back to this position by hand, the roof will probably open OK (just this once).

The bar is supposed to be pulled back by this piece of elastic, one on each side of the car. It’s the piece I’m touching with the scissors. This elastic perishes over time and doesn’t pull the bar back.

I actually have three pieces, from previous repairs carried out before I owned the car. The piece that looks like a seatbelt, which I’m not touching, is a critical part of the roof and definitely must not be cut .

Unfortunately, the last repairer didn’t sew on the new elastic, but riveted it on. This made it very awkward to remove the old pieces, which I did very carefully with a Stanley knife. I also had to cut away the original stitching.

Ideally you would sew new elastic in place of the old. With the rivets in the way, I ended up cutting small slots in my new elastic strips and hooking them onto the rivets. Naturally in my excitement to take it for a test drive I forgot to take a picture but I’m sure you get the idea.

Hope this is useful to anyone struggling to work out where the elastic bands in a Spyder roof are and what needs replacing.

Edit:

I originally used dressmaking elastic etc. for waistbands. I doubled it over to get a bit more strength. 5cm was slightly too wide. Anything from about 3 cm would probably be fine.

Another edit:

I found that elastic wasn’t strong enough, so I switched to 3mm bungee cord. It’s surprising how taut it needs to be. I took advantage of the rivets. Not a neat job I know, but I guess it won’t be seen.

PS The bungee cord is OK temporarily but much better to get the proper elastic.

 

[Nibby]

Here’s how I fixed my elastic straps, which I think may be the ones you are referring to. Apols if I misunderstood.

The roof would stick at around this point on opening. It would carry on a little more but would clearly be stuck against something.

The problem is the cross bar connected to the bracket which is vertical in this picture.

It pivots freely but is actually supposed to be pulled backwards during the opening procedure. In fact if you stop the roof opening at this point and push it back to this position by hand, the roof will probably open OK (just this once).

The bar is supposed to be pulled back by this piece of elastic, one on each side of the car. It’s the piece I’m touching with the scissors. This elastic perishes over time and doesn’t pull the bar back.

I actually have three pieces, from previous repairs carried out before I owned the car. The piece that looks like a seatbelt, which I’m not touching, is a critical part of the roof and definitely must not be cut .

Unfortunately, the last repairer didn’t sew on the new elastic, but riveted it on. This made it very awkward to remove the old pieces, which I did very carefully with a Stanley knife. I also had to cut away the original stitching.

Ideally you would sew new elastic in place of the old. With the rivets in the way, I ended up cutting small slots in my new elastic strips and hooking them onto the rivets. Naturally in my excitement to take it for a test drive I forgot to take a picture but I’m sure you get the idea.

Hope this is useful to anyone struggling to work out where the elastic bands in a Spyder roof are and what needs replacing.

Edit:

I originally used dressmaking elastic etc. for waistbands. I doubled it over to get a bit more strength. 5cm was slightly too wide. Anything from about 3 cm would probably be fine.

Another edit:

I found that elastic wasn’t strong enough, so I switched to 3mm bungee cord. It’s surprising how taut it needs to be. I took advantage of the rivets. Not a neat job I know, but I guess it won’t be seen.

PS The bungee cord is OK temporarily but much better to get the proper elastic.

Thanks ever so much for that detailed explanation Gooner. I’d totally forgot these straps are visible if you stop the retraction of the hood mid operation. Will have a look at mine today and keep referring to your photos whilst checking it out.
Thanks again.

 

[3hcp]

Thanks for this. Trepidation each time we operate the roof on our Spyder so will plan a trip up there. We lived in Parkgate for several years so an opportunity to visit old friends in the area.

 

[3hcp]

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fitted these Velcro straps to the roof bars, works a treat.