Toe settings

[griffo]

4200 toe settings
Hi,
Does anyone have the correct factory front and rear toe settings for a 4200 coupe (2004). I have done various searches and come up with different figures. The correct front camber setting would also be very useful too.
Thanks

 

[spydercc2002]

4200 Coupe stock specification:

FRONT:
Caster +4º 35' ±6' (4.5833º±0.1º)
Camber -30' ±6' (-0.5º±0.1ºC)
Toe +4.0 mm ±0.5 mm

REAR:
Camber -1º 20' ±6' (-1.3333º±0.1º)
Toe +4.0 mm ±0.5 mm

2002 stock specification:

FRONT:
Caster +4º 30' ±10' (4.5º±0.1667º)
Camber -20' ±10' (-0.3333º±0.1667ºC)
Toe +2.5 mm ±0.5 mm

REAR:
Camber -1º 10' ±10' (-1.1667º±0.1667º)
Toe +4.5 mm ±0.5 mm

Formula Dynamic recommends (with FD Springs):

FRONT:
Caster +4º 35' ±6' (4.5833º±0.1º)
Camber -1.0º to -1.5º
Toe 0º

REAR:
Camber -1.5º to -1.875º
Toe 0º

 

[conaero]

Thanks mate, I took the liberty of copying and pasting your info from the other forum in, many thanks.

 

[spydercc2002]

"Toe in" is just for high speed stability if you're often above +200 km/h. "Toe in", also reduce HP, increase tyre wear and gas consumption. For maximum acceleration better with toe=0, also for curve stability. Toe out can give further curve stability but worsen stright ahead stability. Toe=0 is a good compromise. (Just as FD recommend).

More negative camber improves curve stability. Without changing the "ride hights", it must be done with shims. Another method is to lowering ride hight...

Front Camber Changes
If you lower your vehicle one inch front camber can change by approximately -.75 degree.
By lowering a vehicle two inches your front camber change will be approximately -1.50 degrees.
When you lower a vehicle three inches you will change front camber approximately -2.50 degrees.

Rear Camber Changes
If you lower your vehicle one inch rear camber can change by approximately -.50 degree.
By lowering a vehicle two inches your rear camber change will be approximately -1.00 degrees.
When you lower a vehicle three inches you will change rear camber approximately -2.00 degrees.

Every turn on the shocks ring nut is equal to 1.5 mm

 

[davy83]

It is worth adding as a footnote to the last post that in the real world where you are not on a race track or a newly built autobahn that toe out or zero toe on a rough road (which is all we have up here!) your car will dance around as the road surface left and right changes, and tram-line badly. Generally for everyday driving some toe in (as recommended by Maserati) is a much better set up to live with. i had near zero toe on my car and yes i would say the straight-line resistance was marginally better but on twisty roads is was unpleasant, got it put right and its nice gain!

 

[Grinzzz]

Cant comment on what a standard sprung car is like but with stiffer springs and zero toe I've not had problems with tram lining or any straight line stability so long as it's in sport to stiffen the dampers. It's all relative to what you're used to though, one persons oversteering nightmare is someone else's stable beauty!

 

[mjheathcote]

I assume the difference between '4200 coupe stock' and '2002 stock' is the change of springs, so really 4200 '2002' and then 4200 '2003 onwards incl. GS'

 

[spydercc2002]

I took a look at Eurospares

Spyder/Coupe 2002
Front springs #386600336
Rear #163653

Spyder/Coupe 2003-2005 & GS(2005)
Front #197890
Rear # 197896

Ride heights ground to lower wishbone inner joint at the center of the bolt:
Coupe/Spyder 2002: Front 177 mm, Rear 188 mm
Coupe/Spyder 2003-2006: Front 162 mm, Rear 180 mm
GS: Front 152 mm, Rear 170 mm

MEASURE RIDE HEIGHT
FRONT
• WITH VEHICLE ON A LEVEL
SURFACE. FUEL TANK FULL.
• 165lbs. OF BALLAST ON
EACH FRONT SEAT.
• TIRE PRESSURES SET TO
SPEC. ALL TIRES W/ SAME
TREAD AND EVEN WEAR.
• MEASURE FROM THE
FRONT OF THE REAR LOWER
CONTROL ARM MOUNTING
BOLT CENTERLINE TO THE
FLOOR (BOTTOM OF TIRE).
REAR
• SAME PREPERATIONS AS
THE FRONT.
• MEASURE FROM THE REAR
OF THE REAR LOWER
CONTROL ARM MOUNTING
BOLT CENTERLINE TO THE
FLOOR (BOTTOM OF TIRE).

 

[mjheathcote]

I would like to change my springs, being a 2002, the later 2003/GS onwards springs are much better, especially when wound down to GS ride height.
They are only just over £100 too, for all four!... But if I am doing it, would like to fit formula dynamics springs...but these are 10 times more expensive :-(

 

[spydercc2002]

My self I'm doing some dragracing and want to keep the relative soft springs for tracktion in the takeoff. But I'm also doing some trackdays and want to improve curve stability. So I'm going to lower ride height, set some more camber, toe more close to zero, and maybe FD's stiffer antiswaybar kit.