Using a 4200 as a winter sports car.

[Navcorr]

You mentioned GT so thought probably manual. What tyres do you have on? Re: seat heaters, they can be added. Someone here (MarkMas?) found a firm recently-ish. Having added some to my spare seats it isn't particularly difficult - time consuming but not difficult. Was it an option for the 575? If so, chances are the loom will already have the necessary connectors, etc. Maybe ask on the Ferrari forums too.


Edit: https://www.sportsmaserati.com/index.php?threads/can-heated-seats-be-retro-fitted.24693/#post-591134

 

[CatmanV2]

Tried it on my CC once. Thought I'd broken it

Then when I needed it in the GT, forgot it bloody existed!

C

 

[paul328]

Hi
I just put new Pilot 4's on the back. There are P Zeros on the front which I may change in the spring.
On the 575M there was no option of heated seats or cruise control, both of which the 4200 has. I think cruise would be an easy aftermarket fix as the switches and interior are almost identical in origin. I woundnt use the 575M in the snow although some people do. I think it is way to wild at the back even with brand new tyres all round. I just fitted the newest Pilot 4S's and still think it flashes the traction control light too much.
I can't see that seat heaters would be easy due to the seat construction and having contrasting Daytona stitching. Nor does it have rear parking sensors!

It is possible to buy aftermarket heating kits and a good trimmer could strip seats and fit them and then refit the covers. It is dependant on how the seat was covered and the risks of splitting the leather. The main thing i miss on any caris cruise control. I recently bought an 1979 Bentley T2. It has cruise but operated by a massive vacuum bellows! However it works as long as you keep resealing the bellows!

 

[davy83]

I would highly recommend, fitting good year ultragrip winter tyres these make a huge difference in ice and snow. I have however found that powerful rear wheel drive cars are generally not great in seriously bad winter weather, so thankfully we don't get much of that in the UK.
I have a yeti with a full set of winter tyres for when the weather is very bad.

 

[Gazcw]

Back when they were current I used my 3200’s and 4200’s as my daily cars, all year round. Other than one particularly snowy trip up a steep hill in the 3200, I had no problems. But whether those individual examples are still in good condition now - who knows!? They certainly got very wet and salty during my use as they lived outside on the streets of London and commuted me back and forth to Dorset, 52 weeks a year.

You’ll be fine to use the 4200, and modern all-weather all-year tyres will suffice. But do keep up with the under body rust proofing.

I trust you are keeping “my” Khamsin off the road this winter!

Is this it?

 

[mdss]

If you plan to use it i would seriously research Buzzwelds chassis in one paint CIO. Its a multi stage paint that is self etching. They use it on land rovers that are going off road in all weather conditions and I have used it in the past its simply superb and although many spray it on get a gloss roller on a mini roller handle and you can generally roller most of the underside of a car and the tight bits paint with a brush.
You must clean the underside thoroughly to make sure the surface you apply it to is clean and free from dirt/grime and it goes without saying that if there is any surface corrosion you must wire brush or grind it back to bare metal too.
The CIO has a primer included in the multi later so its almost a one stop solution.
After doing this i would then once dry spray Bilt and Hamber Dynax UC all over the CIO areas you painted and allow to dry. You can use this on the subframe too its an excellent protector. The cavities in chassis rails and anywhere you spot a hole you can inject with Bilt and Hamber S50.
You can even spray your arms etc with the UC it effectively will leave a micro film clear protection on them and you would barley be able to see it unless you got very close.

This is all a lot of work but if you take the time your car during winter will stay near perfect and each year just for peace of mind you can just top up the UC and s50 it should last many many years this way.
The CIO and dynax combinations looks way better than old school wax oil(black sticky variety) and i can personally say if done properly will also likely last longer but requires a little more prep.
For best results get someone to perform the above and use a dessicant dehumidifier set to 50-55 in between coats and stages for at least 8-9 hours as this will get the products to cure and dry perfectly between coats.

That's the underside taken care off but its a Maserati so someone with more mechanical knowledge might tell you it wont prove reliable, having said that my Maserati has been reliable.

Link for Chassis in one.

Chassis Paint Black Satin CIO Chassis In One

BUZZWELD CIO Chassis In One Targeted at our customers who want a simple medium term 10 years estimated solution compared to our extreme 4 coat dual

www.buzzweld.co.uk

GL

 

[philw696]

I reckon my old Renault 4 will out last many cars and I have given its first underbody treatment since new over 30 years ago.
Old engine oil brushed on with a paint brush and it cost me nothing as I have a fair bit in stock.
Left a few drops of oil for a couple of days now nothing not even from the motor

 

[paul328]

If you plan to use it i would seriously research Buzzwelds chassis in one paint CIO. Its a multi stage paint that is self etching. They use it on land rovers that are going off road in all weather conditions and I have used it in the past its simply superb and although many spray it on get a gloss roller on a mini roller handle and you can generally roller most of the underside of a car and the tight bits paint with a brush.
You must clean the underside thoroughly to make sure the surface you apply it to is clean and free from dirt/grime and it goes without saying that if there is any surface corrosion you must wire brush or grind it back to bare metal too.
The CIO has a primer included in the multi later so its almost a one stop solution.
After doing this i would then once dry spray Bilt and Hamber Dynax UC all over the CIO areas you painted and allow to dry. You can use this on the subframe too its an excellent protector. The cavities in chassis rails and anywhere you spot a hole you can inject with Bilt and Hamber S50.
You can even spray your arms etc with the UC it effectively will leave a micro film clear protection on them and you would barley be able to see it unless you got very close.

This is all a lot of work but if you take the time your car during winter will stay near perfect and each year just for peace of mind you can just top up the UC and s50 it should last many many years this way.
The CIO and dynax combinations looks way better than old school wax oil(black sticky variety) and i can personally say if done properly will also likely last longer but requires a little more prep.
For best results get someone to perform the above and use a dessicant dehumidifier set to 50-55 in between coats and stages for at least 8-9 hours as this will get the products to cure and dry perfectly between coats.

That's the underside taken care off but its a Maserati so someone with more mechanical knowledge might tell you it wont prove reliable, having said that my Maserati has been reliable.

Link for Chassis in one.

Chassis Paint Black Satin CIO Chassis In One

BUZZWELD CIO Chassis In One Targeted at our customers who want a simple medium term 10 years estimated solution compared to our extreme 4 coat dual

www.buzzweld.co.uk

GL

Thanks for the product tip. I don't know that one. I normally use POR15 paints for rust prevention and various different types of rust cure as a second step after brushing and cleaning . I would use Dinatrol for cavities etc but am always concerned about its flammability which is quite like Waxoil.

I agree about engine oil. After steam cleaning an engine, or engine bay there are some good motor bike products for reciting the area with a thin film of oil. Duckoil is also a great versatile product, but not for exposed areas.

Up here, the local councils spread salt on the roads if someone mentions snow! The gritters were out last week and it wasn't even forecast to be less than 2C!

 

[mjheathcote]

I reckon my old Renault 4 will out last many cars and I have given its first underbody treatment since new over 30 years ago.
Old engine oil brushed on with a paint brush and it cost me nothing as I have a fair bit in stock.
Left a few drops of oil for a couple of days now nothing not even from the motor

That's certainly the budget, pheasant way of adding some protection!
I can recall the village car mechanic doing the same to my dad's cars following a service, but that was well over 40 years ago!
I think the practice was mostly stopped due to possible carcinogenic nature of used engine oil.
There are of course much better, safer, and cleaner options these days than old dirty elf engine oil!

 

[philw696]

That's certainly the budget, pheasant way of adding some protection!
I can recall the village car mechanic doing the same to my dad's cars following a service, but that was well over 40 years ago!
I think the practice was mostly stopped due to possible carcinogenic nature of used engine oil.
There are of course much better, safer, and cleaner options these days than old dirty elf engine oil!

That's one of the first jobs I used to do at my Dad's Garage back in the 70's and it hasn't killed me yet.
Good recycling in my book Mike.