Electrical Failure go to dealer (Open wallet, repeat after me, "help yourself")

[ducatiman]

My 2004 QP has had various spurious electrical failure messages over the years I've owned it, Airbag failure, suspension failure, ABS failure, you know the list no doubt. I've not used the car much over the past couple of years and now looking to put it on the market have some wonderful new ones to sort out.

Previously a good battery charge and reconnect sorted everything but not this time. I even changed the battery for a nice new one, still doesn't want to play.

My list of issues (major and minor)

Electrical Failure go to dealer.

Air bag system failure (previously diagnosed as a high resistance connection under the passenger seat, rectified and solved at that point)

Passenger airbag turned off symbol but the switch inside the car does nothing to alter that status.

Drivers door will not open from the inside but fine from outside.

Glove box won't open on the button.

I've tried disconnecting the battery and leaving it for a while, not working. Tried leaving the car with ignition turned on for 30 seconds so it can do a check before starting the engine, no good.

The engine starts first turn, runs great and no EML to worry about so that is a plus.

My basic code checker doesn't seem interested in non engine related faults so not much use on this occasion.

I had a local auto electrician guy come out a couple of years ago to fault find which of the front parking sensors had failed, he sorted that out with his diagnostic kit but I've lost his contact details.

We are in South Northants so if anyone can recommend a mobile auto electrics guy (or guyess) that would be very helpful.

Anyone experienced these fault codes and sorted the issues themselves?

 

[safrane]

If you have not already tried it, take the car out for a drive, there may be a number of micro switches etc that need a good old shake to get them working again... and then try another reset.

I suspect your airbags will need a SD3 or equivalent to reset.

 

[CatmanV2]

New battery would be the first step for me, and there will be others with more experience but:
Loose connector under passenger seat: Clean and reseat
Passenger airbag is probably the keyswitch itself
Driver's door is probably a dislodged connecting rod (I don't think there's an electrical one from the inside, but could be wrong
Glovebox could be anything. Fuse? Switch?

HTH for now

C

 

[azapa]

^ what Mr Cat says. A new battery will solve at least half those problems. (probably). Batteries are a dark science. They can show good voltage, start a car, but even then be messed up inside and make the electrics do wonky things. In Maserati, the electronic modules within don't seem to like too much voltage variation, and throw wobblies at will.

You know those modern electronics that handle 90 to 250VAC input just fine? Well, they were not designed by ex Maserati electronics boffins.

 

[zagatoes30]

As above Passenger Airbag will be the switch, common fault same part as Alfa so a cheap fix, I think once the airbag warning has been tripped it's a dealer / indie SD3 reset

 

[CatmanV2]

As above Passenger Airbag will be the switch, common fault same part as Alfa so a cheap fix, I think once the airbag warning has been tripped it's a dealer / indie SD3 reset

Passenger airbag will reset (from memory) Seat won't

C

 

[Zep]

Catman has it covered.

If your battery has been at low charge for a long time, it will be goosed with high impedance. It will probably charge, might even look like good voltage, but it won’t start a light bulb.

 

[safrane]

Passenger Airbag fault still requires an SD3... hence my trip to a MD.

 

[Gazcw]

Passenger Airbag fault still requires an SD3... hence my trip to a MD.

Thats the GS. You are forgetting the QP is superior and all lights are simply reminders on what they look like as you never see them and also they are lots of pretty colour and always go out after you have seen them.

 

[safrane]

Thats the GS. You are forgetting the QP is superior and all lights are simply reminders on what they look like as you never see them and also they are lots of pretty colour and always go out after you have seen them.

And of course, owned by optimises.

 

[Gazcw]

And of course, owned by optimises.

Drunkards surely

 

[ducatiman]

Thanks for the input guys.

Fitted a new battery, still got all the existing faults.

Got the door panel off to see if I can work out what is wrong with that as it is mechanical, the cable is still attached at both ends but pulling it doesn't open the latch.

Had the auto electrician guy out today, his reader couldn't find any fault codes stored, checked the current drain and it is up at 70ma which seems pretty high.

No further forward on the electrical issues unfortunately but £80 less in my wallet

 

[ducatiman]

Gave the door pull cable a bit of a wriggle about, sprayed a bit of oil into the key hole and the interior door handle started to work again. Put the door back together and moved on to the passenger air bag switch. That came out really easily so I took the 2 screws out that hold it together to reveal two conductive tracks, each with a surface mount resistor, these connect to the third, common track depending on what position the switch is in. In one position the resistance is a stable 99.9 ohms so I'm guessing it is a 100 ohm resistor with my meter being slightly out. The other position gives a momentary reading of around 180 ohms before dropping to open circuit. I can't imagine that there is anything clever in a simple surface mount resistor so I'm guessing it is faulty and breaking down under load.

Somebody mentioned that another make of switch would fit but I'm concerned that it might physically fit yet not have the same resistors. Can anyone confirm if they have used an alternative switch successfully please. Mine is marked VIMERCATI 54987 B 011 then 46480451

 

[CatmanV2]

Alfa switch works fine in the 4200 and GT

C

 

[azapa]

Thanks for the input guys.

Fitted a new battery, still got all the existing faults.

Got the door panel off to see if I can work out what is wrong with that as it is mechanical, the cable is still attached at both ends but pulling it doesn't open the latch.

Had the auto electrician guy out today, his reader couldn't find any fault codes stored, checked the current drain and it is up at 70ma which seems pretty high.

No further forward on the electrical issues unfortunately but £80 less in my wallet

how long did you leave the battery off? Try at least 30 mins.

 

[ducatiman]

Alfa switch works fine in the 4200 and GT

C

Just stripped the switch down again and checked the resistance again, I used the mobile phone to zoom in on the resistors, one is marked 1000 and the other 4020. I reset the meter and checked again, the resistors are fine so I don't think the switch is the problem

 

[ducatiman]

how long did you leave the battery off? Try at least 30 mins.

Not that long, will try it again in the morning and leave it disconnected for longer.

 

[CatmanV2]

Just stripped the switch down again and checked the resistance again, I used the mobile phone to zoom in on the resistors, one is marked 1000 and the other 4020. I reset the meter and checked again, the resistors are fine so I don't think the switch is the problem

Looks like a duck. Quacks like a duck.

TBF no one that I've seen over the years has bothered to strip down a £20 switch but in every case I can recall (confirmation bias expected) where the passenger airbag light has been on and intermittently off, it's been cured by replacing that switch.

C

 

[ducatiman]

Looks like a duck. Quacks like a duck.

TBF no one that I've seen over the years has bothered to strip down a £20 switch but in every case I can recall (confirmation bias expected) where the passenger airbag light has been on and intermittently off, it's been cured by replacing that switch.

C

The passenger airbag light is constantly on, it isn't an intermittent fault.

I'm inquisitive and like to know why things aren't working, it isn't a days work to take out 2 self tapping screws to see what is inside the switch. I now know that it isn't a simple on/off switch but one that gives two different resistance settings. That being the case I'm thinking that it is likely to be something else in the system causing additional resistance, such as a dodgy connector.

I can't see the point of changing a part that tests good?

Just in case I do end up having to replace it could you give me an idea where I might find one for £20 please.

Thanks for your input, it is really handy to get some feedback from fellow sufferers.

 

[CatmanV2]

Sorry they've gone up

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C