Ghibli Cam Belt change
- Thread starter del mar
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HaydnW
Junior Member
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I came across the following thread last night while idly browsing, it's a rundown of some work required to recommission a Shamal (it looks stunning) and halfway down the page the chap does the same as you've done when having the cam covers repainted.
http://www.mustangshire.com/mustangshire.com/Gallery/Entries/2010/1/17_Maserati_Shamal.html
http://www.mustangshire.com/mustangshire.com/Gallery/Entries/2010/1/17_Maserati_Shamal.html
Needamaser
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Love that car.
Needamaser
Member
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You are making me feel guilty as my sum effort since car came home is putting it on a battery charger. :-(
Car starts !!
Whilst I have been doing lost of other things in between, the cambelt change was relatively easy. Would have no concerns attempting it again and could easily do it in a day.
I have one unconnected wire which ZAM209 is working on what it should be connected to, although it does appear that chassis 209 and 211 have various parts of the wiring loom routed in different directions !!! My engine has been out his has not.
Might actually drive it this weekend.
Del
Whilst I have been doing lost of other things in between, the cambelt change was relatively easy. Would have no concerns attempting it again and could easily do it in a day.
I have one unconnected wire which ZAM209 is working on what it should be connected to, although it does appear that chassis 209 and 211 have various parts of the wiring loom routed in different directions !!! My engine has been out his has not.
Might actually drive it this weekend.
Del
This morning made the bottom of the street, cel was on car would only Rev in first gear, limped home, slight tweaking with air idle screw then this afternoon ran fine no cel !
I am assuming it seemed to have fixed itself, idles at about 1100 revs.
Battery appears to be charging at a healthy 14v before - with the old belt, it could be anywhere between 9 and 12.
The spare wire - I think is a spare in the loom it appears to be for an oil level sensor, but we don't have that sensor neither does any qp iv. The 3200 does though - Ross had no idea what the connector was for so maybe it is a spare ??
Del
I am assuming it seemed to have fixed itself, idles at about 1100 revs.
Battery appears to be charging at a healthy 14v before - with the old belt, it could be anywhere between 9 and 12.
The spare wire - I think is a spare in the loom it appears to be for an oil level sensor, but we don't have that sensor neither does any qp iv. The 3200 does though - Ross had no idea what the connector was for so maybe it is a spare ??
Del
Yes and no.....
It idled at about 1100 before, so at least the car is running as it was, I can adjust the idle screw a bit further if need be - I have the service manual, and the Throttle position sensor has a degree of adjustment so all things to check.
There are no throttle body gaskets left. The paper manifold one I made, the rubber one at the front I had to use hymolar blue to get it to make a good air tight seal, I cant feel any leaks now.
The manifold itself went in nice and straight - grease on the o rings hold them in place.
del
It idled at about 1100 before, so at least the car is running as it was, I can adjust the idle screw a bit further if need be - I have the service manual, and the Throttle position sensor has a degree of adjustment so all things to check.
There are no throttle body gaskets left. The paper manifold one I made, the rubber one at the front I had to use hymolar blue to get it to make a good air tight seal, I cant feel any leaks now.
The manifold itself went in nice and straight - grease on the o rings hold them in place.
del
spacecadet
Member
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- 378
Nice job, you made it for spring, not like me.
spacecadet
Member
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- 378
Is there a separate part for timing belt replacement procedure in the manual? I only found the the whole setup with the chains.
Assuming the aperture was set right, since the chains are in place only the exhaust cam has to be set to the correct rotation in relation to cylinder no. 1 at TDC right? Which should mean the machined marks on the head / pulley should line up. Using only the marks are not precise enough?
Assuming the aperture was set right, since the chains are in place only the exhaust cam has to be set to the correct rotation in relation to cylinder no. 1 at TDC right? Which should mean the machined marks on the head / pulley should line up. Using only the marks are not precise enough?
spacecadet
Member
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- 378
On a related note how hard is it to check valve clearances without changing the shims? Is it only valve cover off, check, cover back without any further ado? And where can I get shims from? Only Maserati? Are they still available? To find out which ticknesses are needed there is no other way than to remove the cams and check the existing thicknesses?
Sorry for these basic questions, I'm a bit hesitant touching the engine, just want to double check that this is not a hard task.
Sorry for these basic questions, I'm a bit hesitant touching the engine, just want to double check that this is not a hard task.
HaydnW
Junior Member
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- 63
To check the clearances you'll need to use a feeler gauge underneath each of the lobes, then a little bit of maths with regards to the factory-advised clearances will tell you what size the shim needs to be. That's how I did it on my old 164 Cloverleaf, it's a bit time consuming but the only wayto do it properly I think. You'll only need to remove the cam(s) if any of the clearances are out of spec of course, as you'll need to see what size the current shims are that need to be replaced.