Loss of power 3200GT

Contigo

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No I live abroad then I use every two months . But each time I came back there are issues and it is affecting my ownership experience

Mate contact me and I can guide you on some checks, do the pedal reset as it will need calibrating to determine idle position and full throttle.

Order a pedal sensor from Davy on here and you will then have a contactless version of both the pedal potentiometer and the Throttle body potentiometer circuits
 

Trev Latter

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Plus 1 for what Phil said. Davy's pedal pots are well worth the expense. The only addition I would make to that is even though you have the contactless TB, check it to make sure the butterfly operates freely and is sprung loaded. The contactless part is unlikely to go wrong, but the magnet in the motor side can still stick due to a build up of metallic debris.
 

Trev Latter

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1,213
Quickest way to check is to take the "Y" shaped piece off the inlet and give the butterfly a poke (ignition OFF) and it should move freely and spring back to an almost closed position. If it doesn't spring back, it has a problem internally and will need stripping to investigate further.
 

Contigo

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As above, remove inlet pipes to the TB. Check that the butterfly can be moved with your fingers and that when releases returns to 7 degrees open. It should not remain fully closed!

A failing TB usually either stalls the car or hangs onto revs very wildly like 3k rpm and above.

First thing to check is pedal pot outputs at idle and at full throttle.

0.3v idle and above and 2.9v to 3.6V at full throttle should give you a rough idea. Do the pedal reset first.
 

jluis

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1,703
Even if the code is pointing potentialy to the pedal pot, I believe it can still be related to the throttle body.
Mine is having dificulties starting hot and also idles badly when cold for about 30 seconds with no CEL or codes.

I have another throttle body known to be faulty (waiting to be refurbished) and I fitted it this weekend to see if at least the idle problem would go away.
The problem did not go away but I did notice that at one point the pedal pot went completely unresponsive and the CEL came up with a P0221 code pointing to the pedal pot.
I put back my old throttle body and that problem went away.

This faulty throttle body I have here has the spring making very little force and you can almost hold the butterfly open just by nudging it.
Check if yours doesn't have the same issue.
 

davy83

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I would also advise caution on the codes its not always pointing at the correct thing, i have also in the early days had pedal pot errors which were related to the TB. Earth on the pedal sensor will be the wire that buzzes out to the body. separate the connector and have a look at the contacts these can get corroded and cause problems. Also worth pulling the carpets back and checking there is often rework on the wiring loom from the sensor to the ECU (which is just on the bulkhead behind it) and these wires are not well done and can some off or just be loose. another simpler way to see if the wiring is causing problems is start the car up and wiggle the wires around a bit and see if it throws a CEL? Doesn't tell you where it is, but can tell you you have a problem.
 

OGAJOE

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I would also advise caution on the codes its not always pointing at the correct thing, i have also in the early days had pedal pot errors which were related to the TB. Earth on the pedal sensor will be the wire that buzzes out to the body. separate the connector and have a look at the contacts these can get corroded and cause problems. Also worth pulling the carpets back and checking there is often rework on the wiring loom from the sensor to the ECU (which is just on the bulkhead behind it) and these wires are not well done and can some off or just be loose. another simpler way to see if the wiring is causing problems is start the car up and wiggle the wires around a bit and see if it throws a CEL? Doesn't tell you where it is, but can tell you you have a problem.
As you know Davy my pp is hardwired. I ll have a look at voltage and also behind carpet as I know some work has been done there and some connectors are not linked to anything.
 

Contigo

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Hardwired? Can you elaborate on that? I assume you mean someone has cut the white connectors off each one and then spliced them together or even soldered them? That is a bodge job I'm afraid.
 

OGAJOE

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Hardwired? Can you elaborate on that? I assume you mean someone has cut the white connectors off each one and then spliced them together or even soldered them? That is a bodge job I'm afraid.
Indeed no white connectors. Wires are directly linked.
Some updates : I have check the blue connector behind passengers carpet. Plug and unplug plus contact cleanser. CEL is gone and also the error light which use to appear on bumpy roads.
The blue connector is now back at its orginal position and attached to metal piece. No movement or shaking anymore.

My only issue is that I'm unable to check voltage of pp. when I put my volt meter nothing is showing.
 

Contigo

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Indeed no white connectors. Wires are directly linked.
Some updates : I have check the blue connector behind passengers carpet. Plug and unplug plus contact cleanser. CEL is gone and also the error light which use to appear on bumpy roads.
The blue connector is now back at its orginal position and attached to metal piece. No movement or shaking anymore.

My only issue is that I'm unable to check voltage of pp. when I put my volt meter nothing is showing.

You need to find the Ground connection (2 of) and the pedal outputs. See drawing and notes I made for the pin outs.

3200PedalPot1.jpg
 

Contigo

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I have just measured a forum members pedal pot to check voltage and it is easy with the pedal in situ. Insert the black lead onto the ground connector (brown) and measure the output at idle and WOT of the yellow and white connectors.