Subframe Overhaul problems.... Advise needed!

[Fat Arnie]

Well, a good soak with GT85 and the mother of slide hammers (7kg weight, 1m long!) has made no difference.

The LHS of the subframe is completely free, and the RHS is free at the front and rearmost points - a pry bar allows the subframe to be pulled away due to its natural flex.

The subframe appears stuck due to the bush that inserts into the chassis stanchions.

Last resort before the angle grinder and a new subframe is some Wurth Rost Off Ice. Unless anyone has any other ideas. Heat isn't really an option.

 

[conaero]

can you borrow an induction heater?

 

[CraigWaterman11]

can you borrow an induction heater?

Yep this is what I was going to suggest. In no way would I cut that subframe. I would find a way to get heat there somehow. On a more positive note you didn't forget any bolts. Not really all that comforting I know, I've been in your shoes more than once brother. Not with this situation as for some reason even in the rust belt where I live these cars don't look this way.

 

[philw696]

Wurthe Rost off is good so fingers crossed for you.

 

[Fat Arnie]

I dont think its possible to get an induction heater near the area in question, in a way that will be effective.

I have spoken to a few people today Mr Roberts, Mr Askew and Terry from Eurospares who sent me a photo off a shell they had which shows the hole and the associated corrosion which is no doubt keeping mine from coming apart.

 

[spkennyuk]

Can you get any acetone on the rubber bush that is stuck ?

Acetone should disolve the rubber be careful where else you get it though. If it eats away at the rubber enough then you should be able to get the subframe free. You will need a new bush to replace it afterwards.

 

[voicey]

Try dousing the area in a mixture of gearbox oil and acetone. Apply over a number of days whilst keeping tension on the parts (if possible).

 

[Fat Arnie]

Its metal to metal chaps. There is no rubber - its a metal locating dowel on the subframe into a metal rebate in the chassis rail. (Hi Voicey BTW)

 

[conaero]

Id be more inclined to cut the chassis than the subframe if you have not other option, it can be simply welded back in and you would never see it. How about drilling above the area of the box chassis and pumping in some release agents in there too or cutting a section of the box section to get the induction heater in there...I guess its a matter of access?

 

[Fat Arnie]

Really? The subframe is replaceable in its entirety for a few hundred quid....

Cutting the shell leaves evidence no matter how well you do it, and leaves the issue of the hole in it being for the purposes of alignment.

 

[miket]

Can you not apply heat at all to the lower face of the chassis rail and will the subframe not rotate around the locating lug at all?
Alternatively a vibrating tool such as an SDS drill on hammer only with a chisel bit in against the locating lug, just to try and get some movement, not ideal I know but just thinking out loud.

 

[conaero]

Alternatively a vibrating tool such as an SDS drill on hammer only with a chisel bit in against the locating lug, just to try and get some movement...

Good idea, an air chisel perhaps.

I know its in bits but you could have left all the subframe bolts loose and jolted back in reverse a few time, I am sure that would break it free.

My way of cutting the chassis was to cut a slot enough to get the induction header in there. Cut on 3 sides, fold back, apply the heat till it frees, bend the opening back up and weld it.

You will get it off, its just takes several methods to get it done.

 

[Contigo]

Yep where there's a will there's a way!

 

[Fat Arnie]

Good idea, an air chisel perhaps.

I know its in bits but you could have left all the subframe bolts loose and jolted back in reverse a few time, I am sure that would break it free.

My way of cutting the chassis was to cut a slot enough to get the induction header in there. Cut on 3 sides, fold back, apply the heat till it frees, bend the opening back up and weld it.

You will get it off, its just takes several methods to get it done.

Perhaps I should mention the rear subframe and transaxle are already off the car! Have an SDS drill. We have also come up with a few other ideas in terms of how to get the impact right next to the bush.

 

[philw696]

For me I would keep soaking it in the penetrating fluid and get some one working it you will the rusty fluid running down breaking up the rust and with the weight of it she should come down.

 

[CraigWaterman11]

Really? The subframe is replaceable in its entirety for a few hundred quid....

Cutting the shell leaves evidence no matter how well you do it, and leaves the issue of the hole in it being for the purposes of alignment.

Lol ....well if money is no object break out the torches, jack hammer, or whatever you got and get it done!

 

[Fat Arnie]

Eureka!

Slide hammer and tow pry bars used in common aggression and its off. No damage to the chassis either!

 

[rockits]

Wow good work and worth the perseverance. You wonder if too much force is too much sometimes. I remember changing the discs on my wife's (well girlfriend at time) about 20 odd years ago. They were welded on and took some less than gentle persuasion!

 

[miket]

Top effort, plenty of grease or something similar when she goes back together after the refurb

 

[CatmanV2]

Too much force is only too much when you realise the screws were left hand thread.....



C