Brake recipe?

verdyrk10

New Member
Messages
9
Hi all, as a new member on this forum I thought I would share my brake recipe with you that I cooked up yesterday after maserativ8's diligence in finding that ferrari 550 brake discs fit our cars.
I am posting this now as my memory isn't what it used to be, needed to post it while the ingredients were still fresh in my head?

YOU WILL NEED FOR THIS RECIPE;

1 seasond maserati 4200 with worn wooden useless brakes.
Other ingredients are as follows,
Complete set of 550 ferrari marenello brembo discs front prt No BDS5670 & BDS5671 rear
complete set of pads, I used mintex for mine prt No MDB 1752 fronts & MDB1456 rears
A 19mm ring spanner, I found this easier for the rear caliper retaining bolts as I couldn't get a socket on them?
A 19mm socket as you can use this on the front caliper retaining bolts.
A 10mm for the front brake pipes, 11mm for bleed nipples, 13mm spanner or socket for the bolts holding the discs on
A trolley jack and preferably 4 axle stands

For the marinade you will require the following,
Copper grease, brake cleaner, WD40 , dot4 brake fluid and optional wheel cleaner?

METHOD
Slacken all wheel nuts then jack up the rear of the car and insert axle stands into an appropriate location then repeat at the front end of the car,
remove all wheels and spray whith wheel cleaner on the inside as you don't get to do this often, then set to one side to marinade while you set about the calipers and discs.
If you dont have axle stands its just as easy to do them individualy, I just felt it was easier with all wheels off the ground.

Infuse all necessary bolts for removal, 19mm holding the brake caliper on, 13mm holding the disc on and the hubs, with a liberal dose of the WD40.

Starting with the rear brakes, remove 19mm bolts holding the caliper in place and then remove the brake pads from the bottom, as it were, instead of the usual top,as it seemed logical, you dont need to remove the retaining spring clip etc, clean the caliper thoroughly with brake cleaner and set to one side to dry.
MAKE SURE YOUR HANDBRAKE IS OFF.
Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the disc on, the disc may be reluctant to just slide off so I recommend lightly tenderising it with a wooden or rubber mallet to loosen, just go carefully as the hand brake shoe's are inside this hub, so just tease it off, I then gave the handbrake shoe's and mechanism a good clean with brake cleaner then a bit of lubricant on the moving parts, self adjuster and springs etc.

Once off, clean the hub and copper grease the rim then slide the new disc on and tighten down, mmm startin to look good.

You will now have to push the pistons back in the calipers to allow the new pads in, when you do this you need to remove the top from the brake fluid resevoir and make sure when you push the pistons back that fluid doesnt spill out? well you wouldn't want to spill your fluid would you? If necessary draw some off with a syringe, not YOUR fluid of course, the brake fluid from the resevoir, put new pads into the calliper having copper greased the backs to prevent them sticking, I did this by pushing them up from the inside not the outside as it appears far easier as I said earlier, I also copper greased all bolts before putting them back. Bolt caliper back on and just check for clearence by spinning the disc, it is at this point I decided I would bleed my system fully, as I couldn't be sure how old my fluid was, as it were mrs, there are 2 bleed nipples,oo er, on the top of each caliper, I did the inside first then the outside as it seemed logical, don't ask why it just did.

If all is well step back and admire just how sexy this dish is starting to look.

Now repeat for the other rear side then make your self a nice coffee while you sit and admire just how good its starting to look before you set about the fronts.
These were not quite so easy on mine, mostly due to mine being a bit coroded or crusty as we cooks like to say.

For the fronts I slackend the 19mm bolts that hold the caliper on but I didnt fully remove them, the reason for this is I noticed the brake pipe going to the inside of the caliper is a fixed rigid pipe, not a flexy pipe like the rears, so if I had fully removed the bolts there was a chance the caliper would drop or swing on the pipe and in doing so buckle or kink the pipe? and you wouldn't want to kink your pipe now would you? so I removed that pipe and placed a jar under it to catch the dripping fluid. This then allowed me to fully remove the caliper for a realy good clean in preperation for the new pads, having the caliper off obviously allowed me to get the pads to fit nicely before putting the caliper back on as the pads obviously go in through the top in a traditional way with the retaining pins and spring clip.
I also made sure I kept an eye on the fluid level in the resevoir so it didn't get to low and allow air in?


As the fronts have been marinading nicely in the WD40 while we did the rears hopefully the discs should come of reasonably easily but they may also require a little tenderising with your mallet? Once off, clean and copper grease the hub for the new disc to go onto, copper grease your bolts for the disc and mount it on the hub. Put your caliper back on but only loosely, having pushed the pistons out, checking the resevoir for spillage, to allow the new pads in and re-atach the brake pipe taking care not to bend it, now you can tighten retaining bolts for the caliper.
You can now put your pads in, having greased the rear of them and using the retaining pins and spring clip as per removal, once the pads are in check the disc spins relatively freely.
One word of warning? on the passenger side there is a brake wear indicator that unfortunately on mine was crusted into the pad, as a result I will be ordering a new one but managed to canibalise the original as a tempory.

You will now need to bleed the front brakes having detached that brake pipe, I also did this starting from the inside bleed nipple then moving to the outer as is seemed logical.

Now get your well marinaded wheels and clean thoroughly on the inside and replace. Lower the car and tuck into getting it out on the road to gently bed those brakes in and savour the fact that you now have a maserati with ferrari brakes that stops as good as it goes, YUM YUM.

Now for the disclaimer, I am not a mechanic as you may well of gathered and iam not a writer either as you can also tell and i am sure this recipe isn't to everyone's taste but I hope it is a simple recipe to getting the brakes this car deserves and it was realy quite easy, even for a non mechanic, non writing crappy cook like me.
Iam sure I may have missed something that someone may point out but I hope you enjoy it as much as I have.

The real icing on this cake is the price of course................£406.00 delivered to my door, which I have to say leaves a wonderful taste in the mouth.

Thanks maserativ8
 

2b1ask1

Special case
Messages
20,281
THanks for this; in language we can all work with...

Who was the parts order with?

Cheers.
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
34,639
Excellent write up and glad you are happy. I am going to move this thread to the How to section as its a very useful guide for future members to make use of.
 

Parisien

Moderator
Messages
34,927
Lovely main course....wondering whats for dessert....;)....?!

Fab stuff Verdyrk10..............................Gordon Ramsay eat your heart out!!!


P
 

verdyrk10

New Member
Messages
9
Thanks for that.

The brakes were from brakes international, I found it easier to order the parts via the part No rather than vehicle application as this could cause confusion, you know the sort of thing "you want to fit ferrari brakes to a maserati"
Orderd them on the Tuesday and arrived on the Thursday.

Dessert was a nice drive knowing I could now stop with a smile on my face rather than an ancious grimace.

Cheers
 

Parisien

Moderator
Messages
34,927
Verdyrk10...shall we add your 4200 to the forums list of owned cars? We'd like to build up a profile of cars owned for future deals we can do on forum members behalf.

P
 

rs48635

Member
Messages
3,181
Nice! Great to have a full list.

For thsoe nervous about bleeding, it is possible to do job without breaking the fluid lines (fronts at least).

Behind front caliper follow the hards brake line to bracket on the strut. One small "spring tab" holds in place the union between rigid and flexible hose. This "spring tab" is like an outer circlip with a shoulder. In any case it can be slid out to free up the rigid pipe. With care the caliper can be swung away from the disk and hung up from thesuspension spring, I use a wire coat hanger but cable ties work better.

Also option on piston retraction.
Do this with caliper still fitted for more leverage, assuming you lack a rewind tool (like me!). IF fitting new disks and pads, just slide a nice fat screwdriver between pad and disk and heave. The "more care" optionl, remove pads and insert two slim pieces of wood, then insert big screwdriver and apply slow firm pressure. ### essential to do both sides of disk for each calliper

Option on brake fluid.
Assuming you know that brake fluid has NEVER been topped up. No need to drain any fluid, or open the lid of the reservior. Do one wheel at a time (avoid too many open brake lines), and watch the level rise after each wheel is finshed.
That stuff will absorb moisture from the air itself, so I leave the system closed whenever possible.
 

Emtee

New Member
Messages
8,446
These details are for the 3200. I assume they're the same for the 4200 / GS?

Front brake calipers bolts - 115 Nm.
Front brake disk fastening bolts - 15.5 Nm.

Rear brake calipers bolts - 115 Nm.
Rear brake disk fastening bolts - 15.5 Nm.
 

aliquot

Junior Member
Messages
299
just ordered a complete set from Brakes International, think i will attempt this myself thanks to the great set of instructions and save myself a few pennies.
 

Parisien

Moderator
Messages
34,927
Steve, just waiting for a set from Performance parts myself to be delivered tomorrow, plus am collecting greengripper pads in Belfast tomorrow...hoping to get all changed on Thursday!


P
 

aliquot

Junior Member
Messages
299
mine should be here on thurs, but will wait till half term to do the work, in case i screw it up and need the wifes car for a few days as she wont be needing hers then.
 

Floon

New Member
Messages
15
I have the 550 discs fitted now with the mintex pads from brakes int. When I took the old pads out one of the metal spring plates that fits under the 2 bars and holds the pads in place was broken. Eurospares say they only come when you buy a new set of oem brake pads, and cant be bought seperatley! They are checking this, and I'm looking into options from BMWs that have the same pads and calipers. Does anyone else have any ideas?

For anyone looking at doing their own brakes there is a very good downloadble photo pdf on one of the other maserati forums. I will see if I can find a link!
 

Emtee

New Member
Messages
8,446
Just taken a quick look on Eurospares and searched my car and yes, the spring is sold along with the pads, however a search on the 550 shows it sold separately. Different part number, but looks similar and at £14.00 plus VAT it might be worth a punt?
 

aliquot

Junior Member
Messages
299
Just taken a quick look on Eurospares and searched my car and yes, the spring is sold along with the pads, however a search on the 550 shows it sold separately. Different part number, but looks similar and at £14.00 plus VAT it might be worth a punt?

give that man a cigar, sods law i will have a similar problem when i do mine.
 

Floon

New Member
Messages
15
Emtee, good spot on the 550 spring. Eurospares were supposed to call me back today with this and a few other bits, but didn't. I'll speak to them tomorrow and check if they do sell it seperatly. I may also order a BMW spring from Brakes Int. The one that comes up when you select the 3200 looks similar too, but the two bits that stick out the side are off centre and not in the middle like the original. This put me off to begin with, but now that I have thought about it I think it may solve the problem with the brake sensor. I think that on the original pads the brake sensor was towards one side of the pad, but on a lot of the replacement pads, the sensor is in the middle and so the 'prongs' will obstruct it. I think the BMW spring with the offset prongs will overcome this.

Aliquot, I'll let you know how I get on!

Thats tommorrow sorted then!