Manual Gearbox issue...

CraigWaterman11

Sponsor
Messages
762
Tom, I don't know friend, I somewhat understand what you're saying but you're kind of changing the sounds your hearing as you go along in the thread. I don't remember suggesting that it's the clutch pressure plate. I do remember suggesting that's it COULD be the hydraulic throw-out bearing. Which does not make noise necessarily when you engage the clutch because there's pressure on the roller bearings to quiet it, but when you release because it's lose and needs replacing it will make a ton of racket. Either way my friend, I am still waiting for you to either take it apart, or take it to someone to take it apart. In either case, the transmission has to be split open correct? As far as I know to replace any of those parts you have to take it apart. At which time if it is your gear box either rebuild it or replace it. If it's something not as serious replace that. In either case do us a favor because people seek help on the forum like you do. If you're going to split it apart take photos and show the people how you did it.
 

tom27

New Member
Messages
66
hi craig !

I'm like joking in my treads , don't afraid ;-) . I like share my job with other members ( see my differents tread !)
I try to be as accurate as possible, but it's alwas the languae barrier...

Noise is append at all gear, but is less in 5 or 6.

I'm go to sleep, i answer tomorrow .:blushed:
 

tom27

New Member
Messages
66
CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE BEARING is clutch pressure plate for me and...eurospares
For you Craig, what is hydraulic throw-out bearing on shem ?
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I know i do to replace the defect parts , not the big one in 1st (gearbox). But in all case, i do to dismount the gearbox...and it's the problem.
 

ledlights

Junior Member
Messages
189
Tom,

Item '3' on the parts diagram is called the thrust bearing in the UK and the throw-out or pressure plate bearing in the US. I think there might be some confusion from some of the posts so I've read them all through from the beginning. As you said, if the thrust bearing was failing you'd expect to hear noise when the clutch was depressed (or in my experience) when you are starting to take up drive and the bearing was under load.

From what you've said, your gearbox makes noise when you are driving and doesn't when you push down the clutch pedal. If so, it sounds like you either have a problem with the input bearing or more likely one or more of the lay-shaft bearings. In either case you'll have to drop the exhaust pipes, remove the prop shaft then remove the gearbox and either replace with another unit (see http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Maserati-...rts_SM&fits=Model:3200+GT&hash=item3f29f842cd) or repair the existing gearbox. This link might (might or might not) help http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...r-great-e34s-m5-domino-working-gd55450-5.html with removal.

I would expect it to cost more to repair your existing gearbox than to replace it with a good used item, if that is what is required.

Hope this helps,

Steve
 

CraigWaterman11

Sponsor
Messages
762
The clutch pressure plate is #2 in the diagram here my friend, this is what squeezes the clutch disc (#1) to the fly wheel (not in the picture but the pressure plate is bolted to it). None of this is possible without the throw-out bearing which is #3 here in the diagram. All of which are entirely different parts. In retrospect I do see a striking dissimilarity to the F1 transmission which does have a hydraulic throw-out bearing slave cylinder assembly. This absolutely does not. I must have missed it before or not paid attention. #4 is your shift fork, you can clearly see that it has an external slave cylinder #28-29. If it was an internal hydraulic slave you would see that the piping or tubing would be running to #3, and it would not have the external slave bolted to the transmission casing. I posted pics earlier of real life examples of an internal slave vs. external slave that I changed for another vehicle. Hope this helps.......again to fix any of it the transmission still needs to be split open. When you split the transmission open and pull it apart you will be able to turn the front main shaft on the transmission to see if it is in fact the gear box. With the noises you are describing the front main shaft will have a lot of play or when you turn it you will immediately notice the play/sounds of the gearing not working properly. The play will only be noticeable disconnected from the motor because it will no longer be supported and balanced by the pilot bearing, which is also not on this diagram and is directly in the middle of the crankshaft of the motor. If you see the previous photos I posted with the yellow colored motor that looks lopsided because I took the photo with the camera at a funny angle under the vehicle, directly in the center of the pressure plate recessed inward is the pilot bearing. Still not sure all of this will translate well in either case when you disconnect the motor from the trans. you are definitely going to know what it wrong with the car. There will not be any questions on what is making the noise. In either case post the results to the best of your ability, and if you are disassembling the vehicle post some photos of the process as you do it. That way it helps the next person.
 

tom27

New Member
Messages
66
Hi,

Thx for support !

I'm just brought a 45 k miles gearbox from ebay ( 730 GPB all inc.) with in bonus, the clutch assembly.

Back here when gearbox will be there.
 

tom27

New Member
Messages
66
Hi all,

I'm just get my gearbox and cltuch assembly !

IMAG0113.jpg
IMAG0114.jpg
IMAG0116.jpg
IMAG0117.jpg
IMAG0119.jpg
IMAG0121.jpg

Firstly, i clean all the gearbox and check if oil leaking from gasket.
I check the oil from gearbox : Oil is perfect and clear, no deposit or smal part of steel.
Inner the gearbox : no deposit, it's like new !

Clearly the old gearbox get a problem : when i make the oil changement, i get a strange poor oil : Big deposit of steel and oil dense paste...

Now i wait for new parts from eurospares to mount the gearbox ( gaskets and seal ).
 

alfatwo

Member
Messages
5,517
I wouldn' fit that used clutch assembly if I were you,It's not worth taking the chance...
Just fit a new clutch kit there to be had for around £500 complete from Sachs UK

Dave
 
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tom27

New Member
Messages
66
I measure the clutch disk tomorrow, but i belive i don't use this. The actual clutch assembly on my 3200 is as new (less 4000 miles).

I fit a new gasket on main shaft and new silentblocks. I'm asking for a new rubber kit on drive shaft , but the price is just crazy ( around 200£ !). Any get a sourcing for an other part ? I know this gearbox is mounted on old BMW m5 , it is a good way ?
 

ledlights

Junior Member
Messages
189
Tom,

I should have charged a commission on the gearbox.... I'm glad it arrived and is in good condition.

I don't think you'll be able to use other mounts as they are likely to be quite different. Are the ones you already have really bad? If not, surely you can reuse them. I've not heard of problems with these parts but I suppose there's always a first time! Changing the lip seal is a good precaution though.

I hope you get the car going again soon.

Best regards,

Steve
 

alfatwo

Member
Messages
5,517
Tom for £25 Its worth ago,if it dosen't fit the Maser gearbox /propshaft you can always sell it on,If it does your on a winner!

Dave
 

tom27

New Member
Messages
66
hi !
Some news : Packet from Eurospare is arrived, but not complet ( oil sender is missing ).
Now i can do cambelt replacement and servicing the car ( air filters , pollen filter ).

I have replaced the ext. O-ring on gearbox, ( dismounting was difficult, best way i found was cut the o-ring) and new silentblocks are mounted. I get picture from this, i post here nextly.
I tring to get a Donuts (rubber coupling ) of a M5 e39 but still difficult.

Anyone can take mensuration of rubber coupling/donut/guibo ?

Now i m thinking to DIY the cambelt replacement, but i'm not sure. For replace the gearbox, i have no choice because don't get the rights tools ( Car elevator).

See you soon.
 
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tom27

New Member
Messages
66
Working today :

Solve the opening passenger side. Passenger can't open the door when he want to go outside. No "clip" are hearing when trial to pen.

Dismantle the door :
door1.JPG


see the system :
door2.JPG


And the sensor for opening the windows (clean it with contact cleaner) :
door3.JPG


This is the problem ! steal-stick is to long for force the opening. Just bend it smoother !
door4.JPG


And don't forget to grease the sticks :
door5.JPG


now perfectly working :love4:
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,848
Tom: nice stuff.
Did you happen to see the spring that returns the internal handle while you were in there? I need to fix mine.

C
 

tom27

New Member
Messages
66
hi catman,
Mine too !

The handle as some difficult to return in position. In my opinion , bend the spring is a good way.

Tomorrow, i replace the fuel filter and airfilter ( report comming ;) )
 
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tom27

New Member
Messages
66
the return spring is a little back on the handle. If you dismount the door ( it take less 5 min...) you would see directly ;)